1996 Honda Accord Starts but shuts off after a few second

Tiny
MRKYLESTEWARD
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
I just replaced the engine in my honda and since I have replace the computer because it would start and run but would not accellerate past 3000 RPM. I have reset the timming to ensure it was not off any but now the car will start but it will only run for a few seconds before it acts like the feul is shutting itself down. I check the fuel pressure with the key on intital burst is good when you turn on the key but after that not a drop.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 9:43 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Check the fuel pressure and delivery amount make sure its within specifications we start here-get back asap.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
MRKYLESTEWARD
  • MEMBER
Do I check it with the key on or off. When I intitial turn on the key the pressure is good but after the intilial burst the gas stop with the key on. Should I turn the engine over to see if the gas continues to pump or not?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Are you checking the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure tester? To check turn key to run
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
MRKYLESTEWARD
  • MEMBER
Feul pressure goes away after a few seconds but is it controlled by the fuel pump or the emc?
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Use below as a guideline

Static Fuel Pressure Test
With the key on, engine off (or with the fuel pump energized), fuel pressure should come up quickly and hold steady at a fixed value. Compare the pressure reading to specifications. If you get no pressure reading, check for voltage at the pump. If there is voltage but the pump is not running, you have found the problem: a bad fuel pump.

If you do get a pressure reading but the reading is lower than normal, the cause may be a weak pump, a blockage in the fuel line, filter or tank inlet sock, or a faulty pressure regulator. Also, low voltage at the pump may prevent it from spinning fast enough to build up normal pressure. Check the voltage at the pump. If OK, check the fuel filter and lines for obstructions and the operation of the fuel pressure regulator before you condemn the pump.

Residual Fuel Pressure Test
When the pump is turned off or stops running, the system should hold residual pressure for several minutes (look up the specs to see how much pressure drop is allowed over a given period of time). If pressure drops quickly, the vehicle may have a leaky fuel line, a leaky fuel pump check valve, a leaky fuel pressure regulator or one or more leaky fuel injectors. Low residual fuel pressure can cause hard starting and vapor lock during hot weather.

Running Fuel Pressure Test
With the engine idling, compare the gauge reading to specifications. Fuel pressure should be within the acceptable range given by the vehicle manufacturer. If low, the problem may be a weak pump, low voltage to the pump, a clogged fuel filter, line or inlet sock inside the fuel tank, a bad pressure regulator, or nearly empty fuel tank.

Dead Head Pressure
This checks the maximum output pressure of the fuel pump. With the return line pinched shut, the pump should produce two times its normal operating pressure at idle. If the pressure rating does not go up with the return line blocked, the pump may not be able to deliver enough fuel at higher engine speeds. Possible causes include a worn pump, low voltage at the pump, a plugged fuel filter or inlet sock in the tank, an obstructed fuel line or almost empty fuel tank.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 12:05 PM

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