1992 Honda Accord TPS problems?

Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 309,000 MILES
Last I noticed that upon acceleration that my car sputters then would burst back to normal driving. This started happening and about usually under 1500-2000 rmp. Did diagnosis and got 3 codes (#7-throttle position sensor, #14-oxygen heat sensor, #41-oxygen sensor). Replaced the TPS (used) due to dealer nor shops sell this separate with out whole throttle body assembly. Well after replacing with a couple of these the car still responds the same. Also noticed that the TPS installation reflects the performance (like timing adjustment) from fluctuating idle to back fireing. How can this be adjusted and or does the oxygen sensor still have anything to do with this problem? I sure can't pay $600 for a throttle body assembly just for this one particular part. No other codes are showing up either. Need Help.
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2008 AT 9:16 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi steveal01,

Code # 14 = EACV not HO2S.
Code # 41 = HO2S, heated O2 sensor, only a replacement would solve the problem if it is not due to wiring.

You are having a problem with the EGR system. Remove EGR and clean it, including the exhaust passage under its mounting point to manifold.

To calibrate TPS you need to adjust the voltage to be 0.5 v at fully closed and 4.5 v at fully opened throttle.
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Friday, August 8th, 2008 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
I will try this and let you know how it turns out. Thanks.
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Friday, August 8th, 2008 AT 9:34 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
Well, now i'm stumpped? I have re-checked the TPS sensor and it is set at.5v closed and approx. 5v fully opened. Cleaned the EGR valve including the intake manifold. Re-started and to my avail, problem still occurring. Car continues to accellerate like it is bogging. Now it is most of the time. In addition, it now backfires from the throttle body. I have also re-checked the self diagnosis and now no codes pop up. Engine light stays lit during check, no blinks. I have even taken the car to AAmco for system check prior to my cleaning and they discovered that the air adjustment valve only needed to be lowered due to the high and low revs at idle. Was too high. Is there something I am missing. I have also checked the injectors & cleaned. Seem to function fine. Checked plugs (ok-only 4 months old), plug wires (should be replaced), rotor and cap (ok), ignitor(good), did notice when I adjusted the TPS, it did run different(rough to back fire). No matter how close to setting I get, throttle still boggs even after I cleaned the throttle body as well(now I hear it whistling) oh boy. Help!
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Sunday, August 10th, 2008 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi steveal01,

You are on the right track. All the CEL error problems have been solved.

You mentioned the plug cables needs replacing, so what is holding you back? Check/test the ignition timing and coil as well.
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Monday, August 11th, 2008 AT 7:52 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
OK, just in case bought new oem NGK plugs and wires (about time). Re-checked timing. No change. Checked dist. Cap and noticed the coil plug to dist. Seemed kind of fried (burned/slight melt at tip). So will replace that and might as well the rotor. Coil good but do have back up. Did notice when replaced #1 plug that there was black oil (smelt burnt). Possible oil leak from valve cover gasket (plug seal). Bought last year. Re-checked seal (good. No cracks or tears) cleaned well so it did not stretch and replaced.
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Tuesday, August 12th, 2008 AT 8:33 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
Got car back from shop which did full diagnostic, which took about the whole day to figure and pin point problem (which they did not charge me, cool). Ended up being the Ignition Module. Costly, so ended up replacing whole distributor (better because got lifetime warrantyand was cheaper to purchase at autozone) and also cap. Runs great now just need timing ajustment again. Great job to help narrow down the problem.
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Wednesday, August 13th, 2008 AT 8:01 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
Well I replaced the distributor and fixed the Bogging problem and the major use of gas (geez, problem caused the car to use about 1/2 a tank of gas going only 60-70 miles) ouch. New problem, seems sluggish during take off then normal past around 10 mph. Also noticed inmorning while start up that starts fine but suddenly idle drops slightly like it's warmed up, then when I push accelerator and release, it idles like it should (around 1200-1500). Timing adjustment causes again minor back fires this time so had to retard timing. What you suggest? Engine seems to fine with 311800 miles, except for this problem.
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Friday, September 5th, 2008 AT 3:50 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
What is the igniton timing that you have set at?

Did you check/adjust the valve clearance? Did you clean the EACV?
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Saturday, September 6th, 2008 AT 7:32 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
Have not done anything related to the valve clearance. Did another diagnostic and discovered a code 9 something in related to TDC sensor for #1 cylinder. Also the d light was also now setting codes (#1, 2, 7, 8) could not find codes in related to the tranny in my book so ot sure what they are. My guess the sensor in distributor went bad or faulty even though rebuilt. Replaced, but of course I made sure cylinder #1 was TDC w/the alignment in tranny (by removing rubber grommet) was good and reset the codes. Had to adjust timing by ear because no timing gun. Well, the acceleration feels and is reacting alot better than before. Re-checked codes and nothing now. Will see what happens down the road. Thanks. Should I check the valve clearance still?
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Saturday, September 6th, 2008 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Forget about the valve clearance for now. Get the distributor and ignition timg done up first, maybe you can ty to rent the timing light from Autozone.

For trans error code they are

Disconnected/faulty
# 1 = Lockup clutch valve A.
# 2 = Lockup clutch valve B.
# 7 = Shift solenoid A.
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Sunday, September 7th, 2008 AT 1:10 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
I have just re-ran the self diagnostic again (huntch) and darn thing, I am now getting a code #14. Not sure if this is related to replacing the oxygen sensor now or does this still have something to do with the timing which I have yet to do with timing gun.
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Thursday, September 11th, 2008 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi steveal01,
Code #14 = EACV, (Electronic Air Control Valve).

Did you disconnect it? You did mention it in the first post. This problem would cause erractic idling or even engine stalling.
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Thursday, September 11th, 2008 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
I did unplug it when I adjusted the air control on throttle body, the repair book states to unplug to adjust. Was starting to idle too low around 400. Dang, did not reset system. Thanks for mentioning it. I also did mention on my first posting about getting a code #14, but the repair book states it's for a oxygen heat sensor. You think the EACV could be going bad? I never replaced since I owned car (11 years). Are there symptoms of it going bad?
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Thursday, September 11th, 2008 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi steveal01,

No, the EACV should still be ok. If it is not good, the idling speed will fluctuate when AC is turned on.

As long as the CEL does not show, it is ok.
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Friday, September 12th, 2008 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
YAN94
  • MEMBER
You mentioned that you just changed the sparkplugs 4 month ago at the time of these writing. I learned the hard way by gapping sparkplugs with a generic tool. DON'T ever regap the plugs. It costs me a whole engine. If need to, get the wire type gap tool. I just want to add a comment in case someone ever come across this post in the future. Thx
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Monday, May 30th, 2016 AT 11:01 AM

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