1993 Honda Accord TP Sensor

Tiny
JERRYLMO
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,384 MILES
1993 Honda Accord 230,384 miles. I need to change the TPS but the fasteners that hold it on look like they should be hex nuts but they're round. They are painted with white paint which I assume is a seal after it was dialed in. Any suggestions? Thank you for your time.
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Tuesday, December 7th, 2010 AT 1:37 AM

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Tiny
COOLSAT
  • MEMBER
Yes on that model the TPS go with the throttle housing by itseft. So you may have to replace the whole thing or you can cut a deep line on the top and use flat scewdriver to remove it ( not recommended). Good luck
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Tuesday, December 7th, 2010 AT 2:13 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
They are either torx or tamper-proof screws.

For tamper proof screws, they are tightened till the bolt head drops off and for removal, you would have to do as coolsat says, cut a line across and use a screw driver to remove. Might require some tapping with a center punch to loosen before the screwdriver can be used.

A throttle body from the junk yard would be an easier choice. TPS seldom fails for Honda vehicles, so what is the reason for replacing it?
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Tuesday, December 7th, 2010 AT 1:32 PM
Tiny
JERRYLMO
  • MEMBER
After checking some other things, it's probably not the TPS sensor. It's my wife's car and she has mentioned that sometimes when she accelerates gently the car doesn't accelerate. The engine doesn't die, it just doesn't speed up. Well, last week the engine died and wouldn't restart for about 5 minutes. It restarted and got her home OK. After reaading some other car questions about Hondas around this year model, I decided to start with some basics. I replaced the fuel filter, removed and cleaned the EGR valve and also removed and cleaned the IAC valve as best I could. I've been driving the car this week to see how/what it was doing. It's 18 miles from my home to work. Starting in the morning, when the car has been in the garage, it does just fine. Not one hiccup. The drive home is a little different. It's been rather cold this week but I don't know if that's a contributing factor. Anyway, the engine starts fine but somewhere in the range of 5 to 10 minutes taking off, the problem shows up. You can feel the engine not accelerating when you push on the throttle and I think I heard a pop under the hood. I've taken my foot off the accelerator and then stepped back into it and it kind of brings it back. This only goes on for about a 30 to 45 seconds then it clears up. Yesterday it did it on the freeway (kinda scary) and I decided to just stomp on it to see what happened. The engine didn't do anything for a second then it caught hold and accelerated hard. In a few seconds everything returned to normal operation. I apologize for this being such a long story but if you have any ideas that might help, I'd sure be glad to hear them. I don't have anything against the Honda, but I'd rather be driving my truck. :) Thanks for your time.
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Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Is the Check Engine Lamp indicating?

There are many possible causes for the problem.

1. A bad TPS.

2. Interruption in fuel supply. The PGM-FI main relay is known to intermittently fail causing the fuel pump to be interrupted or stopped working. Most common fault would be crackes on soldered joints on the circuit board. Resoldering the circuit board would solve the problem.

3. A faulty O2 sensor.

4. A failing ignition coil.

5. A failing ignition switch.
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Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 2:57 PM
Tiny
JERRYLMO
  • MEMBER
Check engine isn't on. Haven't checked to see if there's stored codes.

I replaced the PGM main relay about 2 years ago when the engine wouldn't start at all. When you turned the key off and back on, then it would start and run.

I looked under the car and saw where the exhaust pipe coming down from the engine had taken a pretty hard lick, which relates the the statement my wife made a while back when she said, "I ran over something on the highway but I don't think it hurt anything because it kept going" A O2 sensor swap might be in order.

This car has been pretty hard on ignition modules. I've swapped distributors a couple of times. When it does that I get a SES light just before it fails.

When the car is acting up I could try jiggling the ignition switch to see if it clears up.

Good information and ideas to do further experimentation with. I'll let you know the results.

Thanks again. Jerry Morrow
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Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Since the SES indicated just before it failed, codes should be stored and unless the battery had been disconnected, you should be able to retrieve the codes.
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Wednesday, January 12th, 2011 AT 11:56 PM

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