1986 Honda Accord Car won't start anymore

Tiny
BRAND0NMUSTDIE
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 HONDA ACCORD
Engine Mechanical problem
1986 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

I bought this honda from a roomate and it ran well but he said the sparkplugs had to be replaced, after doing so it ran better but the car kinda ran funny; I would have it almost floored and I would think that it was going as fast as it could and then all of a sudden it felt like the fuel injectors or something would become cleared and the car would jerk forward with more power-this only happened occasionally but it concerned me.
After a while I noticed the exaust gasket blew out, I replaced it as soon as I noticed I don't know if maybe the heat that was blown on the engine during this time may have done something to the engine internally.
Anyways I was driving the car on the highway at about 65-70mph and all of a sudden it started feeling like it was possesed-it would sputter and cut out and then it would do the jerking with power thing back and forth so naturally, I pulled over to see if I could figure it out and I didn't see anything obvious wrong.

once I got it home, I replaced the fuel filter, distributor car, rotor, spark plug wires, cleaned the spark plugs, and replaced the coil. Then finally I replaced the coil and coil wire. Someone at autozone said if I sprayed eather into the air cleaner it would "prime" the fuel system and the car would start, this made the car run for about 5 seconds but since then it has not started and the more fluid I spray into it the more I worry im flooding it.
someone said the timing might be off but they never looked at the car, just guessed from what I described.

also my friend said you could make the car display a code on the dash of what was wrong by doing something to it but I dont know what.

finally my father said the "reluctor gap" inside the distributor could be adjusted but the book doesnt say what it should be set to.
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Thursday, May 29th, 2008 AT 1:10 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Whatever you sprayed into the air cleaner might have caused the problem.

Take the spark plugs out and crank the engine for 2 or 3 seconds. Put the spark plugs back and try again.

Only fuel injected models have ECU codes and for early models, they are blinking led lights at the ECU. If yours is a carburetted version, DO NOT press the accelerator repeatly, it would flood the carburettor.

Are you sure you have installed the plug wire correctly to each cylinder? Are there any sparks from plug or coil cable?
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Thursday, May 29th, 2008 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
BRAND0NMUSTDIE
  • MEMBER
I accessed the ECU last night and did everything the book said, turned the key and watched for any codes-it didn't display any.
I'm pretty sure the spark plug wires are on securely.

I'll take out the plugs tonight and crank it over a few turns to see if that helps.

Do you think the timing might be off?
Is that a possibility from what I described was occouring when it was running?
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Friday, May 30th, 2008 AT 11:06 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi brand0mustdie,

I mean the plug cable firing order, are they correct?

Have you checked the fuel pressure and presence of ignition sparks?

Is yours a PGM-carb or full PGM-FI model?

If it is anything to do with the timing, then most probably there is something wrong with the timing belt.
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Friday, May 30th, 2008 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
BRAND0NMUSTDIE
  • MEMBER
Thefiring order is right I checked wih the book to be sure.
There is fuel pressure when I open the bleeder valve
but i'm not sure how much is suposed to be in there.
My car is fuel-injected.

I took out the plugs, they were a little black so I cleaned them and checked the gaps before putting them back, but now the car sounds less like it is trying to start?
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Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi brand0nmustdie,

Check the sparking and see if the are strong. Attach a plug to 1 of the cable and crank. The spark should be bright blue and not reddish. Try replacing the plugs.
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Saturday, May 31st, 2008 AT 2:32 PM
Tiny
BRAND0NMUSTDIE
  • MEMBER
Is it possible for the reluctor gap to be off inside the distributor?
If so how would I fix this?
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Monday, June 2nd, 2008 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi brand0nmustdie,

If no repair was done to the distributor, then the gap should not have goone out of spec, unless the bearing is worn.

To adjust the reluctor gap, just unloosen the 2 screws holding the pick-up coil and adjust the protruding point with the reluctor lobe at its highest point.

Anyway I seem to have missed out on the igniter unit.
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Monday, June 2nd, 2008 AT 2:11 PM
Tiny
BRAND0NMUSTDIE
  • MEMBER
What is the igniter unit?

I've looked in the book and called as many auto parts stores I could find but no one knows how much of a gap there is supposed to be?

How do I know when it's adjusted properly?
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Monday, June 2nd, 2008 AT 3:08 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi brand0nmustdie,

Igniter unit is the ICM (Ignition control module)

The reluctor gap should be about.20 to.30 mm.

You need to remove the distributor to adjust it. After adjustment, turn the distributor by hand to ensure that the gap is sufficient.
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Tuesday, June 3rd, 2008 AT 7:38 AM
Tiny
BRAND0NMUSTDIE
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Do I need to remove the distributor completely?
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Tuesday, June 3rd, 2008 AT 8:35 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi brand0nmustdie,

You need to take out the distributor but there is no need to dismantle anything.

Only remove the rotor and the cover and you can do the adjustment.
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Wednesday, June 4th, 2008 AT 9:06 AM

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