High idle RPM at startup?

Hello, with it coming down to 700 to 800 RPMs that is the correct rpm it should be at after warm up, but yes 2000 rpm is way too high. You can try resetting the memory and the vehicle will relearn its idle. If the check engine light is not on, then the ECM is not seeing any particular issue with a component. I think if you had a vacuum leak large enough to raise the idle to 2,000 RPMs you would have a high idle all the time, especially at stops while in gear and foot on the brake. Manifold vacuum is at its highest point then. With this having a MAF and not a MAP sensor you would notice a high idle all the time with a large vacuum leak. You can try spraying some water around the intake manifold gasket area when the high idle is occurring, sometimes with plastic intake manifolds when things get hot and expand some vacuum leaks can seal themselves up, but I think you should try the Keep Alive memory Reset since you just cleaned the throttle plates and the MAF.
You can also inspect the Idle Air control valve for any sticking, the instructions are below, you will need someone to turn the key on while you watch the valve move, but this can be done with the engine off. Let us know if any of these things helped at all.

Here are a couple more guides to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/7-common-symptoms-of-a-vacuum-leak-in-your-car-how-to

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-idles-too-high

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-idle-air-control-valve-works

Under the service information it instructs to disconnect the Negative Battery cable and remove the EFI and ETCS fuses for at least 1 to 2 minutes, this will discharge the capacitors in the engine computer and reset its memory. But it also states to do an Initialize procedure, and I keep coming across some precautions. So, I think its best if you stop by a shop and have them reset the engine computer's memory with a capable scan tool. I don't want you to run into any issues after a battery disconnect memory reset. It should only take a shop about maybe 10 minutes if that to reset the computer memory.

When you cleaned the throttle plates and things are functioning better the engine computer will need to relearn the new idle speed and control of it, it will relearn by itself after so many drive cycles, but I think it will clear up the high idle issue faster this way, And if it doesn't then we would go on to check for a vacuum leak somewhere, knowing it is not a computer memory issue.
Also verify that your coolant level and radiator are full, low coolant will mess with the coolant temperature sensor and it is the main input during a cold start up.

Yeah give it a try, I did find out that if you disconnect the battery to do a KAM reset you do need a scan tool for the Initialize Procedure for the Battery and most likely there are other systems that will need it to, there's one about the transmission and the tire pressure sensors if equipped. So, service info is a bit contradictive with its "Erase codes without a scan tool" idea. I don't want to see you get stuck somewhere because of this. I did verify this info with other technicians as well. So, anything you can try without having to disconnect the battery is better. Not like the old days, we can't even change our own batteries anymore without a scan tool now. Some vehicles you need a scan tool to change a head light. Seems a bit much to me. But I do hope this works for you. If it does let us know, it can help someone else in the future. Thank you.

Okay, we will have to look into the high idle issue a bit more, it might be a bad coolant temperature sensor or one that is out of range at cold start up, or possibly a vacuum leak. It's the main sensor the ECM uses to determine its fuel strategy at that point.
As for the Brake fluid, I assume you're just doing the front pads, open the bleed screws on the calipers slightly, just enough that you can push the caliper piston in. This way you're not forcing brake fluid back into the reservoir backwards. It's not good for the seals in the brake reservoir either to do it that way. Many people do though. Have something under the caliper to catch the fluid as it comes out. And just add fresh fluid to the master cylinder(reservoir) as it gets low. I see the design you have, with an odd shaped fill area.
I've added the entire brake bleeding process, which you do not need to do unless you're changing the master cylinder, in which the ABS solenoids would need to be opened using a scant tool to activate them.
Just open the caliper bleeder enough to push the piston in and then close the bleed screw before doing anything else, that way no air gets into the system. The bleed screws are at the highest point on the caliper, this is so the air will rise to the top of the caliper and escape. But once you replace the pads, add some fluid to the master cylinder and pump the pedal until the caliper pistons extend onto the pad and repeat the process for the other side. Just don't allow the fluid level in the master cylinder to go empty, that will draw air into the brake lines. If you're looking to replace the fluid in the master, you can leave the bleed screw open, and it will gravity bleed itself out as you add new fluid in up top. You really should not end up with any air in the lines as long as you keep the caliper with the bleed screw facing up.
Be sure to clean the area on the brackets where the pads sit, there will be rust and dirt build up there. Also clean the slide pins that the calipers move on, if they don't slide freely, the pad will wear unevenly on that side. If the pins are seized up, they may need to be replaced, the brake caliper bolts torque spec is about 78ft lbs. But if they feel stressed at 70 to 75, stop there so they don't break off. Used bolts tend to stretch after the first torque on at the factory.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Sorry about that, normal idle RPMs in drive it's going to around 700 RPMs, so it's better than shifting it at 2,000. As long as it's not banging into gear. You're not getting any codes stored in the engine computer for any sensor inputs? You can try spraying some water with a spray bottle around the Intake manifold gasket area when the high idle is occurring at cold start up. If there's a vacuum leak at the intake gasket, you'll hear the water being sucked into the vacuum leak, you don't need much water, it can be pretty loud. Some people will use a flammable spray to see if that has an effect on the idle, but that can be dangerous, especially around spark plug coils and wires. With the idle eventually coming down to normal, it sounds like a leak is being sealed up after the engine gets hot and reaches operating temperature. How long does it take for the idle to come down to normal?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/7-common-symptoms-of-a-vacuum-leak-in-your-car-how-to

I did find two Recalls on the engine computer for cracked solder joints on the circuit board at certain varistors (variable resistors). And a cracked solder joint is something that would change with temperature. As the circuit board heats up the solder joint would make contact again and an issue can disappear, this is a serious enough problem on these vehicles for them to issue two Recalls on the engine computers. For 2005 through 2008 Corolla's. I posted just the one Recall because both are the same. It states the ECM was incorrectly manufactured. This might be why it's not setting any codes. Codes are usually set after a number of key cycles, but if the issue keeps disappearing every key cycle it never has time to set a code. It's something worth looking into. The components listed: "Component: Engine and Engine Cooling".

It's not recommended at all. Here is the spark plug brand and type for your vehicle. Either Denso- SK20R11 or NGK-IFR6A11 The spark plug gap should be 1.0-1.3mm (0.039-0.051 in) and the torque spec is only 13ft. Lbs. Most come with a crush washer when they are new, some don't. But if it does have them once the washer is crushed don't over tighten the plugs passed that. Don't add any anti seize. They are not designed to take it. There is debate on using it, I don't and have never had any issue. But anti seize actually has metal particles in it and this can cause issues when it comes to heat and the amount of torque applied to the plugs when installed. If you buy plugs from a dealership and the OEM manufacturer gives it to you, I guess you can take a chance. But I know on Toyota's it's not recommended at all.
Did you have any success with the idle issue?

Is it just a rough idle or is it still hunting for an idle point? If you think its cylinder misfires due to a couple fuel injectors, doing a fuel injector balance test is pretty easy. You can even do a cylinder contribution test by just unplugging one injector at a time while it's running and see how much effect it has on the idle, if there's no change on a particular cylinder then you know that cylinder has an issue. There's some easy tests like this you can do like this to figure out where to concentrate your efforts.