Codes P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419

Hello, what size engine does your vehicle have? 2.4 Liter, 3.5 Liter. And is it 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive? And were there any other codes stored?
It looks like the Evap Canister Assembly has failed. The assembly has a leak detection pump, pressure sensor, and vent valve all contained in one module, but with those particular codes stored together under the testing conditions, it looks like the Evap module itself has failed. The vehicle runs self pressure tests when the engine is off. The leak detection pump will pull the system into a vacuum, and the engine computer(ecm) will monitor the pressure sensor for any pressure changes. In this case it has failed multiple tests in a row.
Toyota has their own factory scantool (Techstream) that they use for running specific bi-directional tests. Unfortunately many manufacturers have OEM factory scantools they use that are not available to aftermarket shops.
But the information below is from Toyota.
This is for the 2.4Liter engine, but it appears the 3.5liter has the same system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

My vehicle is 2.4L and it's a 4 wheel drive.

This still looks like a failure of the Evap System canister pump assembly, a problem with the wiring harness running to the canister assembly, or an ECM failure (engine computer). But if it was an ECM failure you would probably have other codes set as well. According to Toyota's information with these codes set together it's a failed evap canister assembly.

May I can fix it .
It's so cost, I can't buy a new EVAP.

I need your help,please.

Can

My vehicle consumption a full tank 2.5L for just a 200mi .
It's not economy.

Okay, you want to try to fix this yourself then and you're saying that your vehicle is using much more gas than it usually does? And another very important question, when you fill your gas tank do you stop filling it when the handle at the gas station clicks off, or do you pull the handle out a little bit and try to fill it to the very top? Some people do this to get as much gas as possible in the tank and it can cause the charcoal canister to become flooded with gasoline. So, if you do try to fill it that way, it would explain the failure and make the diagnosis much easier.
That would explain also why you are going through so much gas, because liquid fuel is being drawn into the Evap system, instead of just gas vapor. Which is all the Evap system is supposed to do, Its only for drawing gas fumes out of the tank and using them in the engine. If the gas tank is over filled, the Evap system can get flooded with gasoline and will draw that gas through the vapor lines into the engine.
I think you're going to find that the Evap canister is going to be full of gasoline. If it's not, there may be another problem.
Also, so you know, since we can't test this system correctly, we can only go by what you find when you take the old canister down. You will need to check the wiring harness going to the canister assembly for any corroded connectors or broken wires.
Under normal testing, the whole system would be filled with smoke using a smoke machine and checked for leaks that way. By just replacing the assembly, there's a chance of misdiagnosing the problem. But looking through the information on our databases, the fix for this is replacing the whole assembly.

I would recommend replacing the gas cap first and clearing the codes and see if all those codes come back.
Don't fill the gas tank though, only put half a tank of gas in it, that way the system will run its tests overnight. It needs 5 hours after the vehicle is turned off in the evening for the system to cool down. If all the codes come back, then we will go through and replace the Evap assembly. It might take 2 drive cycles to set the codes again, so it might take 2 days before they set again.
Below are 2 examples of real fixes, so the gas cap being the cheaper one, I think you should do that first.

I have changed the cap tank by new one and I fill 20L gas to the tank .and I cleared the fault codes.

C

Okay, good. Is your gas gauge reading 0 after putting in the 20 liters? or is that the old picture. And what is its running condition, do you notice any lack in performance, and have any other codes set yet? You will need to drive it some. We need the Evap system to run its self-tests again. You do need to run it two drive cycles, and after each drive cycle it will need to sit for 5 hours, so let it sit overnight. Also do you have your own scan tool, and if so will it show any live data? Or what scan tool is it and I will look it up myself to see it capabilities.
And I see your average miles per gallon is around 14.5, it should be up near 23mpg. This is why I wondered what your scan tool can do, I'd like to see if there is any Fuel Trim Data.

This picture is after I have filled 20 L gas today.

I drive 11 Miles every day. At the morning when I go to my working and at evening when I come back to my house.

Its performance is good.
No, any other codes. Only the code of tire pressure.
It's tire size now is 245/65 R 17 111H not as It's manufactured gauge (225/65R17 101H).

This is the old picture before filling the tank today.

I drive my car in the morning at 9:00AM clock when I go to my work, every day for a distance of 5.5 miles.
And come back to my house at 6:00pm with the same distance 5.5miles.

I park my car from 6:00pm to 9:00 Am everyday.

Forgive me I'm not very good to speaking English as you.
Do you understand me, or not?

Yes, that sounds good. 6pm to 9am is plenty of time. The system runs a couple different self-tests depending on the results of the previous test. So, if it's more than the gas cap leaking it will set those codes again soon.
And you have your own scan tool?

Did you mean this scan tool?
I have this scan tool.

yes, that is an ELM327. What phone app are you using with it?

I using this phone app.

Several time I filled the tank to the very top .

Today and every time when I fill the tank the handle at the gas station is clicks off Several time and the station worker said there is an air at my fuel tank.

That is incorrect, dont listen to whoever is filling your gas tank. That is what lead to this whole problem. The gas handle at the station is designed to shut off at a certain point. If you pull the handle out to try to fill it as much as you can, you over fill the gas tank. There are certain valves at the top of the tank that are designed to close when the tank is full, When the tank gets overfilled, the gas floods the Charcoal Canister which is only designed to handle to fuel vapors (gas fumes). This is how this all started. To correctly fill the tank, put the gas handle all the way in the gas tank filler tube. and when it clicks, stop filling it. Thats the limit the tank can handle.
Now that the canister is probably full of gas, when that happens the charcoal in it (which stores the gas fumes) breaks apart and goes through the system, It clogs up the whole system with broken up pieces of charcoal.
This also clogs the Purge Valve most of the time and causes it to stay stuck open. Hopefully because of the design of this system, since it has an orifice tube, lets hope that the tube clogged up and caught anymore of the charcoal from going into the evap system.
Unfortunately this is a self inflicted issue due to the guy over filling the tank.
If all those codes come back in a day or 2, thats most likely the cause of the canister assembly failure.
This happens alot, its the main cause of canisters being filled with gas.

The first diagram shows the front of the canister, the 2nd shows the hoses coming to and from the canister. You can unhook these one at a time and see if any gasoline comes out of them. There shouldnt be any, only gas fumes,
the 3rd diagram is the Purge valve that is supposed to open and pull the gas vapors from the gas tank and canister. It shouldnt have any gasoline in it either.
Toyota has is located in 2 different locations, so if its not here, it will be under the hood near the intake manifold, if so we will deal with that last.
The 4th diagram is the wiring harness to the assembly. Each number (AK1, SK2, etc) are electrical connectors. So check the connectors for any corrosion inside them. Most likely you wont find any.
The 5th diagram is the Cut-Off valve, its the valve that closes once the tank is full and causes the gas handle to click at the gas station, due to vapor fill.
My worry is that there is gasoline being drawn threw the system all the way up to the Purge valve and then into the engine. And thats why your going through so much gas.
On your scan tool app push the Real Time Information and see if you can find anything that says Long Term Fuel Trim. Or anything to do with Fuel Trim and tell me what its reading while the vehicle is running.
Or I see it has CO2 emissions readout.

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May you communicate with me by this email address.

I can only communicate through here, That's the purpose of the website. This is not a forum for automotive repair. We are all actual automotive technicians.
As for the scan data you posted, those 7 pages that say TID $06 for example, that is Mode ^ data from the engine computer. It is Test ID $06. MID is Monitor ID and CID is Component ID. I think you might have the 3.5 Liter engine loaded on your scan tool because its reading on the last MID an Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 sensor 4 and there is no sensor #4 on your car. It only has 2. Just so you know.
I also see that Cylinder #4 misfires happening, and I think that is happening because Cylinder #4 is closest to where the Evap Hose comes into the Intake Manifold.
You will also notice it has failed all the Evap Monitor Tests, that's because of all those codes you had. It looks like some of the data on this App is in another language.
Have any of those codes come back yet?

No codes have back until now.

So, there are no codes present right now? How is the drivability of the vehicle? Is the information center still indicating the poor gas mileage?

It's still 14.5 MPG.

Okay, you can try taking some of the hoses on the front of the Evap canister assembly off and see if there is any liquid gasoline in them, there is a small clip on them that slides sideways and then the line can be taken off for inspection. If there's none there put it back together until you're ready to pull the whole canister down. If gas starts coming out of the canister itself, you'll know what happened.

Today.

I found this part is closed and I cleaned it by using carburetor cleaner and it then opened.

I do all of these steps.

Okay, good you got the Evap canister down. Was there any liquid gasoline in it? It also sounds like the Vent valve was stuck shut. So, did the codes return after you cleaned that valve out, or have you not gotten to that part yet? You can see by all the dust and dirt how easy it is for those valves to get stuck closed or open. If you haven't tried the vehicle with the cleaned-out valve yet, I'm hoping that will take care of the codes. With that valve being stuck closed the system would fail all of its self tests that it runs. After you get the canister reinstalled, clear the codes again and see if your gas mileage improves. Thise codes also are Historic codes, meaning the engine computer is not seeing the fault right now. That was good work, I'm impressed.

I don't find any gasoline in it.
It was dry.
Only the vent valve was closed by dust.

Yes, the code was returned after I cleaned the evap system. And I scan the car by may oBD2 and the fault appear as a pending fault then I clean the faults and clicked off the + and – of the battery. And then scan for the faults and it appears as a historic fault.


And when I drive my vehicle, I found it with good performance.

This fault after I cleaned the evap.

I want to thank you very much.
You are a good technician.