Headlights don't work I pull the knob?

Battery negative is good. But in this case you have a ground in the same plug the Black wire with white strip on terminal A is a ground, the same one that the lights use. So a short wire there should work.

That is simply because there are different crimp connectors for the wire sizes. Now that you have it out, take a piece of wire and connect the Yellow wire to the Black with white stripe wire. Do the headlights come on with the key on? Yes, replace the switch, No we need to dig farther.

The green wire is the marker lamp power. Have you tried to jump the yellow wire to a ground with the switch in place and the key on? What lights work when you use the switch?

Just trying to eliminate possible problems. When you pull the lever the flash to pass should flash the high beam lamps. The next step will be to test at the headlight relay and see if the yellow wire isn't broken. It runs from the switch through the dash and down to the relay. I understand about the lack of heat, it's 4 below here at the moment. Not fun to work in. The next testing we will do to the relay and you can have the engine running for heat. So determine which one is the headlight relay by looking for the wire colors that go to it. Yellow, Orange, White and Black. Use the test light between the orange and black wires, it should light with the key on. Now try between the orange and yellow, with the key off pulling the light switch on should turn on the test light.

That looks like the correct colors. Unplug the relay and connect the yellow and black wires. Try the lights. That connection bypasses the switch and relay. The BCM can also turn on the relay but the jumper bypasses that as well. That should send power to the dimmer switch and either the low or high beams should light depending on the switch position. If you still get nothing then we go out to the headlights and see if power is getting to the lamps on the orange and orange/black leads. The switches and controls turn the lights on by grounding the other leads.

There won't be power on the yellow. Orange is the power to the relay. The BCM then applies a ground and that closes the relay. If you put a jumper between the Yellow and the Black wires, that simply completes the circuit that should turn on the lights There is no power there. The headlights get power directly, the ground circuit is what turns them on.

Unplug the relay from the harness. Then look into the socket the relay was plugged into. Find those two wires and just put a piece of wire between them. That will bypass the relay and the switch. The idea is to eliminate those as the issue. If you put the jumper in and turn on the key that should tell the BCM to turn on the lights. If you get nothing, then we go to the PCM or the lights. However as you have said you can get the lights to come on by pulling the handle up, we know that the fuses and power to the lights is OK and that the high beam bulbs work. That leaves a bad dimmer switch or bad BCM. The bypass is just to eliminate some wiring to verify that there isn't an issue in the wire to the splice or an issue with the splice itself.
Next stop is going to be the dimmer switch for testing BCM will be last as it's harder to test and needs programming if it has to be replaced.

OK your description has changed. Let me see if I have the new one, earlier you said that the only lights that worked were the high beams and only when you moved the stalk for the flash to pass. "
So when I pull the knob for my headlights to come on nothing happens. When I push it back in the park lights will go off. When I turn on my brights with the turn signal switch I have to hold them on in order for them to stay on if I let it go they go off."

However now you say the items below, correct me where I'm wrong.
When you pull on the light switch the low beams both work, Correct?
When you pull up on the dimmer the high beams work, Correct?
You cannot select the high beams with the stalk and have them stay on, without holding the stalk, Correct?

If those three are correct then you have a bad dimmer switch. The internals have broken. The switch on those moves a set of contacts inside them and latches them in place either low beam or high beam. In your case you turn on the headlights and just cannot select high beams because the latch broke. As such it is a mechanical failure in the switch. The fuses and relays are all working or the lights wouldn't work at all. The fact that the low beams come on with the switch and not that only the parking lights come on shows that.

So you need to disconnect the negative battery terminal, wait at least 20 minutes then remove the air bag from the steering wheel, then the steering wheel. Then remove the shrouds from the steering column and remove the screws that retain the switch, Disconnect the harness connection and reverse the process with the new switch.

From service info -

First you need the J 44298 Driver Air Bag Removal Tool or go online and see how you can use a couple of flat tools to reach in and disconnect the retainers. Then -

1. Verify that the multifunction turn signal lever is in the center of the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Disable the SIR system. (Pull the air bag fuse)
4. Remove the inflatable restraint steering wheel module. Using the tools

5. Remove the steering wheel. For this you remove the air bag, then lock the steering column, make a mark on the steering shaft and one on the wheel so you can line them up later, don't mark the nut as it has to come off. Now use the puller to pop the wheel off the shaft.

6. Remove the steering column trim covers. These are both clipped and screwed in place. Remove the screws and if you have a tilt column put it tilted down just a bit, then pull straight out at the base of the tilt lever and it should pop free. Remove the screws in the bottom cover and drop it off.

7. Remove the steering column wire harness (1) from the steering column wire harness retainer (2).
8. Remove the two wire harness straps from the steering column wire harness (1).
9. Remove the steering column bulkhead connector from the vehicle wire harness.
10. Disconnect the gray and black connectors from the multifunction turn signal lever steering column bulkhead connector.
11. Remove the retaining bolts (1) from the multifunction turn signal lever (2).
12. Remove the multifunction turn signal lever (2) from the staring column.

Reverse the process to install the new switch.

The dash switch has three positions, Off which shuts off all lights.
Pull out to the first stop turns on the marker(parking) lights. The marker position also turns on the dash lights as well. The wire you referred to that was falling out is for those and it sounds like the retaining tab on the contact is bent and the contact is loose. If you pull it out you can crimp the area that holds the other connector and ion the back should be a small tab that you can bend out, then it should push in and click. That should fix the dash and marker lights if it's just the wire that is loose. Pull the switch fully out and use a small pick to push in on each connection in the block. Do any of them make a difference? Wondering if some have heated up and are not making contact.

Pull it out to the second position turn on the marker lights and the headlights, both high and low with the selected beam being decided by the dimmer switch.

If you pull up slowly on the dimmer stalk on the column the flash to pass should be about halfway up and should drop back when you take the pressure off, then you pull up farther and the switch should click as it switches the internal contacts from high to low beam. Do you hear it click?