Engine wont crank

Tiny
SLYWUF
  • 1999 GMC YUKON

Electrical problem V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 140K miles

I need some in depth technical help please - here's the long sad story in 3 part harmony: Recently this Yukon (5.7L Auto Trans) would start fine in the morning, drive fine to work, start up fine after work, but shutting it off 1/2 hour later and trying to restart again would get no action from the starter at all. Let it sit and hour and then it started up fine. Happened again the next day only this time it took 2-3 hours before it would restart. I thought the starter was the culprit, so spent big bucks on a new starter and put it in.
It started up just fine but the next time it was driven for a while and shut
off for about 30 minutes, it would not restart again. Not even after waiting
more than 12 hours. Here are the results of some testing that I have done:

No check engine lite was ever present, and plugging in my OBD2 reader showed no error codes. Security light seems to function normally - stays on for about 5 seconds after turning on the key and then goes off.
The fuel pump does run when the key is turned on.
The fuses are good.
The starter relay is good. Jumped across the output terminals of the starter relay socket and the starter cranks fine, motor starts but will run for just a couple of seconds.
The ignition switch on this vehicle was just replaced about a year ago.
According to the factory manual that I have, there is supposed to be a ground present on one side of the starter relay (coil side) this is pin 85 on the relay, and then when the ignition key is turned to start, there should be +12 volts on the other side of that relay coil which is pin 86. I dont see either when I put my meter on there. The diagnostics dont appear to take into account the theft deterrent system, which I suspect may be the reason. Should I be able to see theft deterrent trouble codes with the OBD2 reader as well? I tried adding a ground to pin 85 of the starter relay but it still wont start. What else can I do to figure out what is keeping the starter relay from working? Is there a way to bypass the theft deterrent system? HELP ! I'm stuck.
Thanks in advance.

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Sunday, May 4th, 2008 AT 8:09 PM

42 Replies

Tiny
GRIZZY51
  • MEMBER

I seem to have the same identical problem. I shut the vehicle off & went to restart about 15 min. Later & no crank. Tested battery voltage 12.6, key in acc. Position gear position indicator light on. Key in run position gear indicator light off. Has after market alarm, removed alarm no change. Tested ign switch, ign relay & neutral safety all good. On advice replaced all of the above, no change. If I have the key in the run position & supply ground using a continuity test light to the yellow wire from the ign switch vehicle cranks & runs, still no gear indicator light. The same happens when at fuse $ 8 at the inside panel or to the pin at the starter relay. The security light comes on for about 5 seconds & goes out, no flashes. No trouble codes in OBDII

At the time that this occured I was 85 miles from home. I was able to jump the starter at the solenoid & drive it home.

I am at the end of my rope if you have any further info I would sure appreciate the help.

Thanks GRIZZY

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Friday, June 20th, 2008 AT 1:16 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 6,919 POSTS

Hello,

These trucks have a gear selector switch on the side of the transmission on the drivers side where the selector cable hook up. The starter circuit goes through it and it sounds like it has gone bad.

Here is a guide that can help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-neutral-safety-switch-works

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
VANCE77
  • 1999 GMC YUKON
  • 142,000 MILES
  • MERGED

I have 1999 yukon xl - let off key and turn it again it starts also when you go to pass some one it runs out of power

I replaced plugs and wires distributor roter and and cap also fuel filter and no codes come up

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Does givin it gas help? Or what if you prime pump without turning to start a few times first?

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
VANCE77
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Does not help to prime it if you pull the air tube off there is a lot of black carbon

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
VANCE77
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

You let it sit for day some time it will fire right up

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

What happens on passing someone?

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
VANCE77
  • MEMBER
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It dogs out when passing just lacks the normal power

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Check fuel flow and pressure.

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
LOLOC
  • 1999 GMC YUKON
  • MERGED

Electrical problem
1999 GMC Yukon V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

changed out intake gaskets had the batt. Unhooked for a few day got it back together and It will not turn over to start rang out the wire to the starter sol. It good changed the starter switch in the colum tryed the passloc reset a few time if I put my test light on the 10 amp fuse for crank it will turn over and start? Any help thanks Kevin

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • EXPERT
  • 16,305 POSTS
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(it will turn over and start )

The above phrase in your post, is that a typo?

The crank fuse circuit should be hot, with the key in the crank position, from there the voltage goes to the trans range switch/ neutral switch. I don't guess they call it a neutral switch anymore. From there the voltage goes to the coil side of the starter relay in the power distribution center under the hood. Be careful fooling with the terminals for the starter relay, it is possible to crank the starter from there. Because of safety issues and forum rules, I don't think I'm supposed to talk about bypassing the relay.

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
VIONDI
  • 1999 GMC YUKON
  • V8
  • 175,000 MILES
  • MERGED

My yukon won't crank

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
VIONDI
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

No spark from spark plugs, but I have replaced the ignition coil and cam sensors

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

BASIC IGNITION SYSTEM CHECKS

DIS (EXCEPT 3.4L)
Spark
If factory tachometer is connected to coil tachometer terminal, disconnect tachometer before performing tests. When removing spark plug wire from spark plug, twist and pull on boot. DO NOT pull on wire.
Using Spark Tester (J-26792), check for spark at each spark plug wire. Leave other wires connected while checking for spark. Check spark plug wire resistance on suspect wires. Resistance should be about 30,000 ohms.
Ignition Coil Power Source
CAUTION:DO NOT insert DVOM leads into ignition coil connectors. Connector terminals may be damaged. When using DVOM, ensure lead contacts front edge of terminals only.

Turn ignition on. Check ignition positive voltage circuit of ignition control module for battery voltage. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If battery voltage is not present, check fuse for ignition control module circuit. If fuse is not open, check for open in circuit between fuse and ignition control module.
Ignition Coil Test (2.2L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.5L & 7.4L)
Turn ignition off. Remove engine cover. Disconnect wiring from ignition coil and distributor lead.
Using DVOM, check for continuity between coil primary terminal and exterior case of coil (ground). Replace ignition coil if continuity is present.
Using DVOM, measure resistance between coil primary terminals. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 0.1 ohm.
Using DVOM, measure coil secondary resistance. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 5000-25,000 ohms.
Reconnect distributor lead and wiring to ignition coil. Install engine cover.
Ignition Coil Test (4.8L, 5.3L & 6.0L)
Turn ignition off. Disconnect wiring from ignition coils.
Using DVOM, measure resistance between ignition coil terminal "A" and ignition coil mounting bracket. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 0-10,000 ohms.
Using DVOM, measure coil secondary resistance. Replace ignition coil if resistance is not 3000-7000 ohms.
DIS (3.4L)
Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis (Primary Ignition Check)
Perform On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system check. See ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) SYSTEM CHECK in appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. After performing OBD system check, go to next step.
If any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, diagnose DTCs. See appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. If DTCs are not present, go to next step.
Start engine. If a no start condition or hard-start condition is present, go to next step. If engine starts okay, go to step 5.
Turn ignition off. Disconnect Ignition Control Module (ICM) harness connector C2. Turn ignition on. Using DVOM measure voltage between ground and ignition battery voltage circuit at ICM harness connector C2. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If voltage is less than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 10 volts or greater, go to NO START-ENGINE CRANKS OKAY (3.4L) under NO START DIAGNOSIS.
Drive vehicle and note driveability problems such as miss, stumble or hesitation. If driveability problem is present, go to ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS (SECONDARY IGNITION CHECK). If driveability problem is not present, go to next step.
If any other driveability problem is present, go to appropriate TROUBLE SHOOTING - NO CODES article. If no other driveability problems are present, go to step 8.
Check ELEK IGN fuse (10-amp), located in underhood junction block. If fuse is open, repair short to ground in ignition battery voltage circuit between fuse and ICM. Replace fuse. If fuse is okay, check for open in ignition battery voltage circuit. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Check for loose or corroded terminals and connections. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to next step. If circuit, terminals and connections are okay, go to appropriate TROUBLE SHOOTING - NO CODES article.
Operate vehicle within conditions in which problem occurred. If driveability problem is present, perform On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system check. See ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC (OBD) SYSTEM CHECK in appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. If driveability problem is not present, system is okay.
Electronic Ignition System Diagnosis (Secondary Ignition Check)
Perform NO START DIAGNOSIS diagnosis. See NO START-ENGINE CRANKS OKAY (3.4L) under NO START DIAGNOSIS. After performing no start diagnosis, go to next step.
Install scan tool. Turn ignition on. If any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, diagnose DTCs. See appropriate SELF-DIAGNOSTICS article. If DTCs are not present, go to next step.
Using scan tool, perform Fuel Injector Balance Test. See FUEL SYSTEM in appropriate SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article. Note cylinders with no engine speed or idle quality change. If any cylinders were noted, go to next step. If no cylinders were noted, go to step 17.
If 2 companion c

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
JOHNMLEVIN
  • 2007 GMC YUKON
  • 101,909 MILES
  • MERGED

2007 GMC Yukon XL with 101,900. Won't start. Engine light, Stabilitrack&traction control lights. Tried starting and keeps turning over when I let go. Engine light on, Stabilitrack and traction control light and service needed shows. Won't start now. Lots of of water out of exhaust?

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
  • 48,676 POSTS
  • MERGED

It sounds like the battery is weak causing the problems you describe. go here for more info

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-battery

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
BCMULLEN95
  • 2006 GMC YUKON
  • 70,000 MILES
  • MERGED

It started with a no start. When Yukon was turned on you could hear the solenoid click and nothing else. So I assumed it was the starter. After pulling the starter I notices the crank sensor pigtail wires where not connected. I satured the wires back together reconnected everything back now it wants to start on its own. What else could it be that wouldcause this?

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
  • 68,314 POSTS
  • MERGED

Do you mean the engine cranks without you doing anything? If so, somehow you provided 12v power to the smaller wire on the solenoid. Double check that. Also, pull the starter relay to see if the problem stops. If it does, then the power is coming from a problem before the relay.

Let me know what you find.

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
BCMULLEN95
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Could the crank sensor pigtail wires by chance give the 12v problem if the wires some how got mixed up or switched to a different spot if you will.

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Monday, May 1st, 2017 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
  • 68,314 POSTS
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Yes

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