1998 GMC Sonoma Lower control arm

Tiny
TRAFFICFLOW
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 GMC SONOMA
Suspension problem
1998 GMC Sonoma 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 140k miles

Hello I have a noise in the front end on the passenger side. Little bit of play but nothing serious I donot think. I looked underneath and did see that the lower control arm has dropped down (I Think) into the splash guard behind the brake rotor. It has cut into it pretty well. That is all I can see/ What do you think?
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Thursday, November 26th, 2009 AT 3:27 PM

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Tiny
MATHIASO
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Hello Trafficflow


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c152802505e5_1.jpg



the bolts 105 might got lose for the lower control arm. the insulator might be wore out.
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Thursday, November 26th, 2009 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
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Look at the pic below. I do not think that diagram was correct below There is no bolts holding that bar. I do not see no loose bolts or wore out bushings. I sent this earlier but the guy never came back. Should I donate again? But something is letting it sag Any other ideas? I am afraid to drive at a high rate of speed.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/440169_IMG_50462_1.jpg

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Thursday, November 26th, 2009 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/46384_0900c152802505f6_1.jpg



check for a brokken ball joint.
there should be a ball joint that attach the lower control arm to the steering knuckle.that ball joint is the load carier one.it was either revited to the control arm, or pressed or threated or it was press fit.
it is dangerous to have that vehicle in traffic.

One time donation is enough.

More questions? feel free to ask

Happy thanksgiving
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Friday, November 27th, 2009 AT 6:04 AM
Tiny
TRAFFICFLOW
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Hello, This is one of the coolest sites. To be able to do this!
How do measure for worn bushing? There is nothing real visible. It loks diff then the other side. I am pretty sure this is the problem. Just so I understand, The bushings on the opposite ends look good. And if there is more clearance between the arms is the spring pushing them apart? I have to leave for a bit and I will take a diff pic if needed later. Doing thanks giving today. Happy Holidays
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Friday, November 27th, 2009 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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Hello Trafficflow
Suspension, steering and wheel alignement is one of my ASE certification.
Damage or distortion to a control arm bushing can result in changes in wheel alignement settings. Inspect the control arm bushing for deterioration and splits in rubber, or bushing that is that is off-center. Sometime bushings are in position where visual inspection is difficult.
Using a flashlight and a mirroe will sometime help.
Push on the fenders of the vehicle while listeneing for noise. To inspect bushing for losensess, use a prybar to see if the control arm can moved.
Control arm bushing are pressed or driven out. It is important that the control holes not be damage by the process. If an air chisel is used, be sure that the chisel bit is wide and dull. If it sharp, it will cut the bushing rather that pushing it out
the new bushing is is pressed or pounded in with a spesial driven tool.
Send me the picture and we can see what it is really.
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Friday, November 27th, 2009 AT 1:02 PM
Tiny
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Hello, I have a few more pics and went up to Auto zone and they have the part and the tool to press it out. Do I need to compress the spring? Anrd then use a pickle fork to seperate it? I am doing Thanks giving today so I had to take the car off the jacks so I could use the garage. One other thing my friend up at Auto Zone was to check the bearing also. I know what you are going to say about AZ but this guy is a semi retire that I have got to know. Thanks
Can not get the load pic to work will send this for now try pic later
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Friday, November 27th, 2009 AT 4:44 PM
Tiny
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http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/440169_Picture_033_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/440169_Picture_036_1.jpg

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Friday, November 27th, 2009 AT 8:51 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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Thank you for the pics, they look clear.
You have a SLA ( short-long-suspension arm) with the spring resting from the lower control arm, that make our problematic ball joint a load carrying one.
Damage to it could put more weight on the bearing as long as the problem is not fixed, so your friend is right about the bearings.
Here is the first thing to do for safety precaution:
-Reach across to jack the control arm from the opposit side of the vehicle. This will allow the jack to roll toward the inside of the vehicle as the control arm is lowered releasing spring pressure.
- remove the cotter pin from the ball joint nut and loosen the nut several turns.
-position the vehicle so that the coil spring is pushing on the ball joint. This will require lifting the vehicle or allowing its weight to rest on the wheels
- use a hammer to pound sharply on the steering knuckle on the outside of the tapper. This will deform the tapperand spring pressure will separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
If it does not work, use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint.
Tell me how far you have come.
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Friday, November 27th, 2009 AT 11:31 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for the instructions. Will work on it tomorrow.
One other thing. Will I need a c clamp press tool to get the ball joint out and how does it go back in? Thanks
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 12:16 AM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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Yes, a c clamp press tool. It should come with instruction of removing and putting the new one in.
You can keep it after the job is done or. ;-) Repack it nicely, return it and get your money back.
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 12:26 AM
Tiny
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One more question, Will I be able to get the tool in there to do the work without taking any more things apart. Thank you very much for your time. Will not bother you any more tonight.
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 12:38 AM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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Yes you can, follow the previous instructions, if you're in doudt, stop and ask me question. You do not bother me.I'll be with you untill you fix it, and as long as you need my help.
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
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Hello I got a late start. Had emergency. I have the jack under the lower control arm and broke the bottom schock loose. Will have to cut top off later to get it out. It looks like I need to loosen the rod that mounts to the stabilizer bar? To seperate whatis the tapper? Tried smacking on nut no luck. Have air tools also if needed. Need a little advice. Thanks
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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I suppose
- you removed the cotter pin
-loosen the nut several turn.
The jack is place under the control arm not exactly on the bolt that hold the struts.
The taper is just the stud of the ball joint that goes through the steering knuckle. Just forget that.
If it is hard to remove, use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint.
Print our converation so you won't miss anything.
Tell me what you did and how far you come.
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
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Going up to get the pickle fork. I have did everything so far as you just wrote3. What about the link that goes to the stabilzer bar. Be right back
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 5:06 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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Yes it is the stabilasor bar link, must be remove.
Replace with new one on both side.
Right now. The spring bolt broke, and spring need to be secure. You will need a spring compressor too.
Pickle fork
spring compressor
let me know when you got them.
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
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Just got back and the guy up at AZ told me to just use the c-clamp tool to get it loose. Will try using that first I guess. I tought if I had the jack under the lower control arm I would not need the spring compressor. Correct?
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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No you do not need spring compressor.I thought you said the bolt that hold the spring on the lower control arm broke and spring was lose.
Separate the ball joint and let me know how far you got.
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Saturday, November 28th, 2009 AT 6:36 PM
Tiny
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Hello. I had Grand daughter over yesterday so I stopped. I have it apart now I did as you said with the jack. I broke the idler arm loose of the spindle and beatb on the sides where the ball joint shafts go thru and it dropped down where I could pull the spindle out. Upper joimt feels good wheel bearing is okay. Bottom one had spot where it would pop like it was damaged or worn out. Getting ready to press it out right now. Thanks for all the help!
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Sunday, November 29th, 2009 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
MATHIASO
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Tell me how far you've come.
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 6:56 PM

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