Fuse for cylinders 1-7 keeps blowing

Tiny
DAVID TOWNE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET TAHOE
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 205,000 MILES
The fuse for bank that runs cylinders 1-7 keeps blowing as soon as I drive.
Sunday, July 25th, 2021 AT 7:48 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi Dave,

Could you let me know what code you have? As far as a fuse, it could be ignition related, fuel related, injector related, and so on. So, I'm not sure exactly what is happening.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, July 25th, 2021 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
DAVID TOWNE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
I don’t remember exactly what code it was but it had something to do with injectors.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2021 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, no problem. Can you tell me which fuse is blowing? If you look at pic 2, I highlighted two fuses. Pics 2 and 3 are a very small portion of the powertrain management. That is why I'm trying to narrow it down.

Interestingly, the injector fuses are hot at all times. Does the fuse blow as soon as you install a fuse or does the key need turned on?

If it blows as soon as it's plugged in, try disconnecting one injector at a time to see if there is one that prevents it from blowing.

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, July 25th, 2021 AT 9:42 PM
Tiny
DAVID TOWNE
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  • 10 POSTS
It’s the fuse marked 2*.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2021 AT 9:59 PM
Tiny
DAVID TOWNE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Under hood.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2021 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
DAVID TOWNE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
And it blows when I’m driving. Like not even a minute after running. Then bam, no 1, 3, 5, 7.
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Sunday, July 25th, 2021 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Okay, here is what I want you to do. I need you to first disconnect the battery negative terminal. Then, one at a time, disconnect one of the affected injectors at a time.

Each of the injectors receives 12v constantly when the battery is connected via the pink wire. What I need you to do is check for continuity to ground (resistance) in each pink wire for the 4 cylinders affected. I need to know if there is a short to ground.

When you check, place one lead of the multimeter (ohms) on a good ground under the hood and the other lead on the pink wire at the injector. There shouldn't be continuity to ground. If there is, then we have a short in the affected wire.

Afterthought... If you want, just pull the fuse that blows rather than disconnecting the battery. That will make it easier.

Let me know what you find.

Here are a couple of links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Take care,

Joe
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Monday, July 26th, 2021 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
DAVID TOWNE
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Thank you for your time. I found the culprit. There was a wire with the smallest bare spot. Heater core hose was leaking slowly, filled up the wire protecting plastic and when it reached the bare spot. Well a short of course, lol, so I fixed heater core hose fitting and dried up all the water and liquid taped it. Thank for all your help.
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2021 AT 5:58 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,269 POSTS
Hi,

You are very welcome. I'm glad you found the problem. Electrical issues can become a nightmare. My favorite was an ABS light stuck on (GMC Envoy). Everything tested perfectly.

Well, the A/C clutch pulley wore through and cut the signal wire to the inside of the vehicle. It took five minutes to fix the problem and 5 hours of diagnostics. Ugh! LOL

Regardless, please feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions. You are always welcome here.

Take good care of yourself,

Joe
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Tuesday, July 27th, 2021 AT 8:05 PM

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