Will not stay running on its own

Tiny
1985HONDAACCORD
  • MEMBER
  • 1985 HONDA ACCORD
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
1985 Honda Accord (manufactured in Japan) 4-door sedan "S" (Standard) with 132,000 miles, a 1.8 liter carbureted engine ("Low Altitude (49 ST)" Emission Group), and a 4-speed automatic transmission starts normally but immediately wants to shut off unless the accelerator pedal is vigorously pumped. Even then, keeping it running for any length of time is extremely difficult. This began as an intermittent problem and later progressed to the point where it is now stuck in my garage.

It has an automatic choke which appeared to be functioning properly the last time I was able to check it (the choke plate closed when the engine was cold, and it slowly opened as the engine warmed up). The air filter, distributor cap/rotor and fuel filter were replaced just recently.

Is there any chance this is enough information for you to know that the fuel pump is the problem and not the carburetor or one of its many components?

Thank you.
Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 6:13 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Hi,

Is it possible for you to record the engine running for me to hear it? This could be the result of a few things.

When it is running, is there any black or gray? Have you checked to make sure there are no major engine vacuum leaks?

Here is a link explaining how to find a vacuum leak:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

As far as the fuel pressure, I attached a pic below showing what the pressure should be. You could get a 'T' and put it between the fuel line and carburetor to confirm pressure. Here is a link that shows in general how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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Monday, May 25th, 2020 AT 8:01 PM
Tiny
1985HONDAACCORD
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you very much for your reply. I attempted to attach a recording (an ".M4a" sound file recorded on my iPhone) of the engine starting and running to this reply message without success. It doesn't seem to like the "Filetype." Any ideas?

The engine wants to roll back a quit whenever I let the RPM's go below about 2,000. As I indicated previously, keeping it running requires that I vigorously pump the accelerator pedal.

I may have been unclear about this earlier, but both both fuel filters were replaced recently. So far, I have not been able to find any damaged or missing vacuum hoses. The problem has progressed over time indicating that the performance of something has been deteriorating. It was intermittent at first. When it would not run properly, I would let it sit for several minutes or longer after which it would start and operate normally again for the remainder of my journey that day.

Thank you again.
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Thursday, May 28th, 2020 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Hi,

Although you see no damaged vacuum hoses, there still could be a leak at the base of the carburetor, intake, or something you don't see. Try the test I mentioned above. Also, other than stalling at idle, does it run normally? I realize it's hard to keep running, but didn't know if that was only limited to idle.

I'm starting to question the top dead center sensor in the distributor. . Here are directions for testing it. Let me know if it is something you feel comfortable doing.

1985 Honda Accord L4-1829cc 1.8L SOHC ES, ET 3-bbl
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
If either the CYL or TDC sensor are not satisfactory, they should be replaced together.
CYL Sensor
1. Disconnect sensor electrical connector, then measure resistance between white and orange wire terminals on Accord and Prelude, or white and red wire terminals on Civic and CRX. Resistance should be 650-850 ohms.
2. Measure resistance between the white and orange or white and red wire terminals of the sensor and sensor housing. Meter should indicate infinite resistance.
3. If resistance is not as specified in steps 1 and 2, CYL sensor is defective.
TDC Sensor
1. Disconnect crank angle sensor electrical connector, then measure resistance between white/blue and orange/blue wire terminals on Accord and Prelude, or brown and blue wire terminals on Civic and CRX. Resistance should be 650-850 ohms.
2. Measure insulation resistance between the white/blue and orange/blue or brown and blue wire terminals and sensor housing. Meter should indicate infinite resistance.
3. If resistance is not as specified in steps 1 and 2, TDC sensor is defective.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, May 29th, 2020 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
1985HONDAACCORD
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you very much for all this information.

I caved and took it in to a carburetor expert. He found what appeared to be a failing electrical connection at the primary main cut-off solenoid valve. He cleaned it up and secured the connection. So far, the car appears to be back to its old self. However, he expressed some apprehension saying that he's never seen this particular electrical connection fail before (his shop has at least 50 carburetors of all types and sizes on the wall, and he's been at this for years--lots of classic muscle car work). He also said that the solenoid is no longer manufactured. He told me to drive it for a while to see how it behaves. I will keep your guidance handy just in case. Thanks again.
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Friday, June 5th, 2020 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
1985HONDAACCORD
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Oh, and to answer your last question, no, it would not run normally otherwise. I had to work the pedal to keep it running at any speed, but more so below about 2,000 RPM's. When I would let the engine get down below that level, it would begin to head down even further and I'd have to fight to bring it back up (to prevent it from stalling) and it would not stay there if I simply held the pedal down without pumping. I hope I've explained things adequately. If not, I sincerely apologize. Thank you.
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Friday, June 5th, 2020 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,300 POSTS
Glad to hear it is fixed, and thankfully he had the part.

Let us know if you have questions in the future or need anything.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, June 5th, 2020 AT 10:20 PM

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