Car stalls while driving on highway

Tiny
CGALATIOTO
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD

Engine Performance problem 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 105000 miles

I have been having issues with my 2000 Honda Accord stalling usually in stop and go traffic, or recently while on the highway at 70mph. I notice the engine sluggish and the throttle unresponsive. This is not an electrical problem because the engine remains on, only I cannot get any response when I step on the gas. There is currently a recall on the ignition switch, which I am ineligible for. This problem happens randomly.

Weirdly this happens most when there is luggage in the trunk or the trunk is over loaded. Is there a sensor in the trunk somewhere that affects the fuel pump? Usually happens after the car has been running for a while.

No check engine lights, diagnostic showed nothing wrong.

I have been researching, and found similar problems related to ignition switch, or main fuel relay, or fuel pump.

Any help would be appreciated, I am taking it in for service tomorrow and going to start with the ignition switch, and see what he says. I trust the mechanic but would like to pin point the problem to save some money.

Thanks for you help in advance.

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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009 AT 10:05 PM

77 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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Hi
Don't think ignition switch is at fault. More inclined to suspect fuel pump. When car does this will it just snap back or do you have to stop and restart?
Let me know
Thanks for donate

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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 9:47 AM
Tiny
CGALATIOTO
  • MEMBER

No well if I am starting the car it will start, then idle down sputter and die, I then have to release pressure from gas tank (dont ask why it helps) then wait a while and eventually it will start up again.

The other day I was on the highway, and the gas was just not responding and I had to coast from 70mph down to about 15 then it stalled, and I did the same trick and got it going again.

The car is very sluggish during all of this while driving. I thought it was the ignition switch or coil since there is a recall. But now I think it could be the main relay that feeds to the fuel pump.

The car is in the shop as of this morning, so any advice I can call the mechanic and tell them to check.

Of course I drove it last night, nothing in the trunk just myself and the performance and stalling was fine. Like I said its intermittent and doesnt happen all the time which is a pain in the ass.

Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated.

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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 10:03 AM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
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The fact when you relieve pressure in tank and it starts points to fuel pump. Does this problem occure more when tank is less than 1/2?

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Wednesday, June 3rd, 2009 AT 10:11 AM
Tiny
HYPERMIK
  • MEMBER

My 2001 Accord Coupe (170K) has been stalling for over year. There was never any indicators why it would do this but it finally didn't start back up and that's when they found the MAIN RELAY was down. They said it didn't show up on the computer before because it would only shut off for a minute when the car dies then come back on. Easy self fix for $40-50 at NAPA. This drove me crazy so I hope this help everyone.

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Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 AT 7:55 AM
Tiny
CGALATIOTO
  • MEMBER

To follow up. The MAIN RELAY was the fault of this issue and the car is now fixed. Has been running fine for about a year.

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Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 AT 8:53 AM
Tiny
ROSA
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • MERGED

I have a weird problem. When starting the engine after driving it for an hour, the engine starts but then it stalls. For example, after work, I drive home. No problem starting the car at work. When I get home, I turn off the engine. After 20 - 30 minutes, I start the car again. This time, it seems like it's having a hard time to start. It sputters and sometimes it dies. When it dies, I try to start again and it starts. At this point, I can hear cranking sounds in the engine. I am able to drive fine, and no problem with stopping the car. It's just that I hear that weird sound.

I have no problem starting the car in the morning.

Again, this problem only occurs when I start the car 20 - 30 minutes after I've driven for a long time (an hour, 35 km).

I had my alternator and battery changed a year ago. The engine light is on.

Any ideas on what could be causing this?

Thanks!

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
FISHERMAN
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Ok then you have to retrieve the codes stored on your computer, that way you will know what the problem is, when a sensor fails, the computer store the info.

Here is a guide to help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

find a place where they can scan your car computer, or if you want you can buy a cheap scanner visit amazon.

in some auto parts rent those scanners ask there.

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
ROSA
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

Thanks for the reply.

I meant to say that the engine light is on before I actually start the car.
But when the car starts, the engine light is not on anymore.

Hope this is clear.

Sorry for the confusion and thanks again fisherman. :Wink:

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
FISHERMAN
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Dont worry!
How abot the level of fluids?
Oil, Water, transmission, brakes.
When was the las time you do a tune-up to your motor?
The temperature neddle its about 3/8 from the bottom?
What kind of noise it came from the engine?
Metal to metal. Rubber. Knocking?

How long has been doing that?

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
CADI1998JAZ
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I have the exact same problem as ROSA. It's been suggested that the crankshaft sensor is the culprit.I had'nt got to a shop yet. Any other thoughts on this.

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
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Scan for codes auto parts does for free then check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. you may need an adapter for that. see link.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
THAISONT
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 248,000 MILES
  • MERGED

My car has a check engine light, diagnosed it as cylinder misfire and it alternates each time I run it. But, lists 3 cylinders each time.

Light has been on almost past 3 years and no problems.

Today driving I lost power and the engine shut of completely when coming to a stop. I tried for about a minute to try and restart it kept cranking and finally able to start it again.

The battery is good and don't think it is the starter as it sounds normal while starting.

Have had it at multiple mechanics and none has ever had a definite solution on the check engine Misfire.

Does anyone have an idea for the root cause of the problem? The car runs now and seems to be fine, for now.

Thanks,

Tyson

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Tyson:
A misfire can be caused by several things. It could be fuel related or ignition related. Since it is 3 cylinders that are affected, to me it sounds more fuel related. I would recommend checking the fuel pump pressure first. If it is within spec, then focus on the ignition. It could be a bad crank sensor causing the problem. However, the only way to be sure is to have the engine live scanned. Basically, a mechanic hooks up a scanner that reads what the computer is doing. It can pick up on where the problem is coming from. For example, if the computer loses a signal from the crank sensor for a second or two, the mechanic can see it.

I hate to say it, but without live scanning the computer, it becomes a guessing game. What even makes it harder is the fact that the problem has to happen while the scanner it attached, or the problem part finally goes bad and then can be located. My first guess is a bad crank sensor, but again, without scanning it while driving and having the problem happen.

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
THAISONT
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

UPDATE: still problems

Hey Jacob / Nickolas,

I took the car to a local shop. They ran the codes and random misfires on all 6 cylinders came up. I mentioned the crank sensor and they ruled it out instead they suggested EGR valve cleaning. After that there were still codes they readjusted head valves and the check engine light has been off for 200 miles.

Now the car still shuts off and won't turn back on until numerous tries. The car cranks, battery is good, stater doesn't grind at all when cranking.

Do you have a better idea of whats the issue, any help and input would help. Thanks.

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I have to be honest, random misfires aren't caused by valve adjustment issues unless every cylinder is really out of adjustment. The EGR could cause it, but again, I don't think they are looking in the right place. I really feel it is fuel related. Did they check fuel pump pressure?

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
KDP360
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • 175,000 MILES
  • MERGED

Over the last 6 months, somtimes immeadiately after filling the gas tank, the engine bogs-down and then shuts down. Typically if I wait a minute, it will start again. This time is isn't starting again. My initial thought is that the tank has water or trash in it and the filter is clogged, but I know that I can only access the filter by opening up the tank. Before doing that I want to make sure that I have checked the easier items. I know that the fuse is still good. What do I do and how do I do it?

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
BILLYMAC
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Hi well the filter can be replaced without removing the tank it is located near the tank under the car. But if you are talking about the strainer inside the tank then yes you would need to remove the tank,

when you turn key on can you hear the elec fuel pump inside the tank running? Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine.
Try beating on the tank with a 2x4 or something while someone cranks it if it starts replace the fuel pump

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
DL8290
  • 2000 HONDA ACCORD
  • MERGED

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

2000 Honda Accord EX 2.3L cuts out at 4000 rpm's shift to the next higer gear and it is fine until I hit 4000 rpm's in that gear. It don't happen all the time but when it does it is like the engin shuts off until I shift to the next gear. Any ideas?

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi dl8290,

This is known as RPM cut whereby the engine would cut off if a certain rpm is encountered. If the Check Engine Light is indicating, get a scan done to retrieve for trouble codes.

Was any repairs done prior to this occurring?

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
DL8290
  • MEMBER
  • MERGED

There has been no repairs before this started. I happened once before and quit now it has been doing it for about two weeks.

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Thursday, May 18th, 2017 AT 11:32 AM

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