Intermittent rough engine and misfires both in idle and while driving, codes P0305 and P0300

Tiny
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Would that explain the smoke? If I got a PCM from junkyard it would need to be programmed right?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
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Well, I'm thinking the smoke is relates to the EGR. There is a distinct odor that would be associated with electronics burning up I think you would have mentioned it and yes a new PCM will need to be flashed by a dealer or a place with the special scan tool. That's why looking at the circuit board should be done and the EGR should be ruled out beforehand. If a chip has burned up you will see it. If this was the case I don't think it would run at all. If a junk yard PCM was installed I believe it would run and the issue would go away verifying that it is the problem then going though that expense would be justified. Then a new one could be flashed returning the proper mileage and so forth.
Tom
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Wednesday, August 5th, 2020 AT 10:43 PM
Tiny
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I have smelt a burning rubber type smell before, but that was before I did the alternator.
Just to clarify, are you saying that if a chip was burnt up that the Jeep wouldn t run at all?
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 5:55 PM
Tiny
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Well, depending on which one but pretty much yes. Some integrated circuit fail only when heated or cooled though. You can get whats called freez-it and it will instantly freeze whatever you spray it on to sub zero. If it was in my shop I would take the PCM cover off and shoot the chips with it with the car running if I didn't see any melting evidence. A partially failing chip will completely fail if frozen. If the EGR proves to be working properly or is replaced that is the next thing I would do. Here is a pic of what I'm talking about.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
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Okay. Have not had a chance to get the EGR yet, it s in a crappy spot to get to and recruiting help. I did want to give and update as well, here the last couple of days it has started to stall on me a lot more. It has stalled in the past but rarely. It s stalled on me several times last couple of days. Mainly while backing out of a spot, idling and it stalled on me at a stop light as well.
Also it s looking more like the issues is mainly happening after start up. Last couple of trips (not as hot weather) it s been fine most of the way to fist destination, especially when first getting going from overnight before engine reaches temp. Seems like the issue is happening mostly after coming to a stop and restarting within an hour or so or been running for a while and run into start and stop situations.
Last night after letting it sit for a few hours it was running great, ran into construction and had a big detour and lots of stopping and starting. It did fine for a while but after several stops the stutters started again and getting back on the highway was rough at first. Had to pull over cause the CEL was flashing. Stopped and restarted but it stalled on me before I could get going. After getting it going it seemed to get better as long as I didn t push it too hard and got back home and it had stopped.
Similar today, made a quick trip, restarted after 15 minutes and it stalled on me 2 times backing out and once when putting it in drive. Had some hesitations to get going then it got better. Stalled on me at a light a little later.
Had some skips on the highway but not too bad again as long as I didn t push too hard. After letting it sit for a few hours and driving back didn t have any issues.
I also had code p1128 come up today as well. Closed loop fueling not achieved bank 1 upstream
Does this fit with an EGR issue?
Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2020 AT 4:42 PM
Tiny
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And almost forgot.
I will post the pic, while I was under the hood, I wiggled and pushed on what I think is the PCV while it was stuttering and it seemed to make it stop. Not sure if a coincidence but seemed to happen 3-4 times.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2020 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
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Hello,

It doesn't look like one if I'm seeing it correctly. If it had an effect then we need to look closer at it though. Does it have any vacuum lines or wires coning from it? If so, how many pins are in the wire connector for it. It looks like part of the evap system to me.
Let me know And I'll try to ID it. Look, for a part number on it.
Let me know.
Tom
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2020 AT 11:42 PM
Tiny
NYC2NC82@GMAIL.COM
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Hey,

So from what I ve pulled up in forums and online that is the crankcase vent to intake manifold tube. That rubber plug at the end is attached to the PCV valve. (It s not on the oil filler tube on this model) That tube would be a vacuum line right?
Did you see my previous post about it stalling more and the p1128 code? I know it s a long post, just trying to get you as much details as possible.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 6:07 AM
Tiny
4DRTOM
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Good morning,

That code is interesting, its new to this issue isn't it? It sounds to me like the problem is getting worse and changing. Were you able to get your eyes on the PCM circuit board? I think you need to absolutely verify the PCM isn't slowly burning up. There are too many variables and changing codes and condition to point to a single sensor or component. I'm not sure if you can pull the PCM out and get a known good one to put in or somehow get the existing unit bench tested. At the least get the casing off and see if there's anything burnt. You would be looking for discoloration on the IC's (black rectangle chips) and puffed out capacitors, which are the small can looking things. This really is the next step.
Tom
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 7:43 AM
Tiny
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It s the first time seeing the code, it was pending. From what I m seeing o2 sensors or the sensor heaters seem to be most frequent reason for that. I do remember Kenny mentioning the o2 sensors as well. I do have the o2 heater sensor test on my scanner. I ve looked at it before but not sure what exactly that test does. I do remember looking at the test after driving for a bit and it was showing -40 degree. I ll attach the pic I took. I think I ve mentioned it on this thread before but not sure.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 8:42 AM
Tiny
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I went ahead and looked at the O2 sensor heater test as soon as I stopped after a good 25 minute drive. All of my sensors up and down stream and both banks showed min and max of -40 degrees and a test value of -40 as well. I pulled up pictures from July 4th where each sensor was a min of -40 and a max of 536 and each sensor had a different temp. B2s1 was at 113 that day and B1S1 was at 77.
Not sure if this means anything at all but thought it would be worth mentioning just in case.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
NYC2NC82@GMAIL.COM
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Sorry to keep posting but think this may be important.
Just drove back, not much drivability issues just a couple little bumps and sputters. Had live data on my scanner and made sure it went into closed loop. Got back and parked and looked at the scanner and fuel system one was in open loop-fault.
Decided to go ahead and check the same O2 sensor heater test and this time they were showing readings. Min -40 Max 536 with a temp of 113 for b1s1 and 122 for b2s2.
I didn t have an engine light on but went ahead and ran a scan and I had p0131 pending. O2 circuit low voltage b1s1
Can the sensors be causing all these issues?
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
4DRTOM
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Hi,

Well, if the O2's were messing up the code would be there. What about the PCM have you been able to look at its PCMs circuit board yet?
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 8:51 PM
Tiny
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Is p0131 not an o2 code?
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
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Yes, but it's telling you the mixture is not right not that the sensor is bad. Meaning the computer isn't working right.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 8:55 PM
Tiny
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I ll try and look in it ASAP. Honestly I m a little nervous to mess with it.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2020 AT 9:08 PM

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