Front brake caliper replacement instructions

Tiny
INTOSILENCE1
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 BUICK CENTURY
  • 3.1L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
My front passenger brake caliper was seizing causing a popping sound when accelerating past 30 mph, and causing the wheel to get scorching hot. Had it replaced, and it seemed to go away, but after 3 or 4 days, it started doing again. Replaced the caliper again a couple months later, it was fine for 3 days, and it started doing it again. Same symptoms as before, it drives as it I'm stepping on the brakes. When I removed the caliper and tried to spread it open with the tool from AutoZone, it wouldn't open at all. What else can be causing this?
Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 9:38 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This could be a master cylinder issue but that would more then likely cause both front calipers to lock up. So the fact that this is just one caliper, I suspect the rubber line that attaches to the caliper has failed and is not allowing the fluid to return to the master cylinder. Basically they collapse and hold the pressure in the caliper and it doesn't release.

I would replace that rubber line as well as the other components needed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
INTOSILENCE1
  • MEMBER
  • 79 POSTS
The rubber line that goes to that caliper was also replaced, and visually, it looks fine. I forgot to mention that the front driver wheels also feels pretty hot to the touch compared to the rear wheels, but the front passenger gets unbearably hot.
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Saturday, November 14th, 2020 AT 5:12 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. If both fronts are effected as it sounds like they are, I would just go ahead and replace the master cylinder. You have a two chamber master cylinder, one for the front and one for the rear. Clearly the front is not allowing the fluid to return and release the caliper.

I attached the process for this including the bench bleeding for the master cylinder. Then you will need to bleed the entire system including the rear.

Here are some guides that will help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system
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Sunday, November 15th, 2020 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
MISJS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 BUICK CENTURY
  • 1.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 71,000 MILES
My mechanic said he replaced front and rear calipers and I don’t think he did. What can I look for to no if they were really replaced?
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

The new calipers should simply be clean. Because of dirt and debris from the road, calipers get dirty fast.

You should be able to look through the wheel to see them. I attached a picture of what one looks like for you to see. The easiest thing to do is remove a wheel so you can get a clear picture of the caliper. If you can, upload a picture for me to see.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MISJS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Did you receive the picture of the caliper?
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,114 POSTS
Welcome back:

No, it wasn't received.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 5:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BARTICUS25
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 BUICK CENTURY
  • 150 MILES
I have replace pads, rotor, caliper(twice), wheel hub. Bleed the system serveral times the pedl feels great and not spongy at all. I dont think its the master cylinder b/c the pedal doesnt sink at all. It continues to seize and is only the one wheel. Any ideas?
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 5:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 34,184 POSTS
When it locks up, open the bleeder screw to see if it releases. If it does, next time crack the steel line loose at the master cylinder. You're looking for the place where it won't release to find where the fluid is being trapped from returning to the master cylinder. The rubber flex hose is always a good suspect.
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Thursday, February 18th, 2021 AT 5:50 PM (Merged)

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