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1995 Ford Windstar Fuel pressure regulator

Tiny
SEARCHERRR
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD WINDSTAR
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 158,000 MILES
If you cannot see any, but smell the slightest hint of fuel from the vacuum side of the fuel pressure regulator is it likely that it is faulty? Please answer this question first.

PLEASE HELP. I HAVE BEEN GETTING ZERO RESPONSES ON HERE LATELY.

I am at my wits end here and can only look now to either the FPR, ECT, CCRM, or COILS as see the following I've replaced quite a lot recently.

Description of Problems:
1. Engine attempts to stall IMMEDIATELY following the radiator cooling fans turning OFF. This has made me think perhaps the CCRM is going bad because I don't know what else would do this unless its an electrical (bad ground) issue.
2. I'm getting 9 - 11mpg on a new Jasper engine
3. Idle pulses/hunts constantly in Park from 600 - 800 rpms
4. Sometimes under accel/load driving the van jerks as if the key were turned off causing deceleration for 1-2 seconds. Its actually hard to describe what it does, but its as if it can't make up its mind about going forward or like it isn't getting gas.

I'm not sure if the 2 (MPG and idle pulsing) are related, but I believe them to be.

Things tried:
New cats (Magnaflow ypipe)
New cat-back exhaust upgrade (Borla discontinued model)
O2s in good shape and cleaned at tops (NO CEL)
Cleaned MAS/AFM
New engine
New plugs and wires
Rebuilt tranny 20k old
New VSS
New TRS (neutral safety switch)
New water pump
New IAC
New thermostat (not motorcraft, but supposed to be OEM temp)
New radiator with system flush
New PCM
New battery
Regrounded alternator with better cable
Regrounded battery and resistance checked all known grounds
New DPFE sensor
New coolant/heater hoses
New ABS HCU
New alternator pulley (tracking down a squeaky belt)
New compressor clutch assembly (though I've noticed now the compressor is leaking since engine install)
New power steering pump and filter
New accumulator for a/c
New brakes/pads in front (no drag)
New (fairly) pcv valve though I could check it again
New air filter (K&N)
New fuel filter 8k miles ago
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Saturday, May 10th, 2008 AT 6:18 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Have you checked the resistance of the ect? Should move from high to about 170 ohms at operating temp. Aslo if you can scan the sensor temps when cold first thing in the am, IAT and ECT should be within 5 degrees of each other. MAF will also give the jerking problem if defective, these are tricky to test. The K & N air filters are known to cause problems with MAF sensors.
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Saturday, May 10th, 2008 AT 6:26 AM
Tiny
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I will check the sensors you mention, but again the first thing I asked about wasn't answered. Please answer my FPR question.
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Saturday, May 10th, 2008 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.
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Sunday, May 11th, 2008 AT 7:01 AM
Tiny
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Thanks Merlin.
I'll take a look at the video.

FYI - Cold testing of ECT and IAT:

ECT: 25.35
IAT: 24.96-25.26

Both tests done at 87 to 86 F

I found some spec data and that appears to be accurate for both.

What now?
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Sunday, May 11th, 2008 AT 5:53 PM
Tiny
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That video was very helpful. It seems I was confused as to how to use the fuel test port as I have a fuel/vac pressure test gauge that is for carburetor engines and not FI engines. I guess I could get another gauge or an adapter to allow me to be able to test on my FI vehicle huh? The adapters that came with it do not look like they would work as they are just "open" straight through. I'm guessing the line that plugs to the test port from the fuel gauge will have some sort of pin that pushes the valve open for testing.

The almost stall at idle or 1-2 second deceleration during driving happens consistently ONLY when the radiator fans turn OFF and only when I'm driving right after having sat in traffic (assuming that this is when the fan is turning off).

I believe having noticed this correlation (fan goes off then tries to stall) is the key to the problem or perhaps 1 of 2 problems since it does not seem that the fan problem would be causing horrible MPG.

What would I do to find out if I am getting a voltage spike when the cooling fans turn off?
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Sunday, May 11th, 2008 AT 6:45 PM

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