1997 Ford Thunderbird Fuel Pump

Tiny
JALEDESMA
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 142,000 MILES
How do you replace the fuel pump in a 1997 TBird?
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Saturday, August 30th, 2008 AT 6:57 PM

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Tiny
RYANBLIZZ
  • MEMBER
You have to drop the fuel tank. It is actually not as awful as it sounds, but try and get it as close to empty as possible (syphon the gas out if your fuel pump is already dead). I say this because I changed one that was almost full and nearly drowned. ;-)

1. Put the car on jack stands - I just did the back, but I should have put the front up too, it would have been much easier.

2. Take the middle section of the exhaust off, I think it is four nuts on the front, then you can slide the tail pipe section off the rubber cushion mounts.

3. Put a standard floor jack under the fuel tank (especially if it still has gas in it) and then unbolt the fuel tank. There is a metal "strap" running from side to side with a bolt on each end. I think there is also two bolts near the rear axle.

4. Oce all the bolts have been removed you can lower the tank a couple of inches, BUT don't let the tank hang from the filler tube in the back. There is two small rubber hoses and the filler hose (larger rubber) attached to the rear of the tank with hose clamps. Take them loose and then drop the tank down.

5. It should be completely loose from the car except the fuel pump wiring and fuel lines that run near the unibody under the passenger door.

6. Disconnect the fuel pump. I cannot remember if there was a special fuel flange here or not. If there is they are tool is fairly inexpensive ($10), just go to your local auto parts store and tell them you need a Ford fuel quick disconnect tool. Anyway, disconnect the fuel lines - mark which side is which, (I think the hoses are different sizes for the supply and return, but just in case), unplug the electrical connection and then pull the tank all the way out from under the car.

7. I used a large flat head screw driver - as a tap - and a rubber mallet to unscrew the fuel pump, it unscrews counter-clockwise, and it is 1/4 - 1/2 turn to completely pull it out. Mine was stuck in there fairly good, just be careful not to break any plastic tabs on the fuel tank.

8. Once the fuel pump is removed, reinstall the new one (follow above steps in reverse) - make sure you put in the new gasket that comes with it. - Before you install, it would be good idea to test it, I installed a bad one from Autozone and had to redo the whole installation the next day. - You can test it by plugging it in to the wiring (before tank installation) and turning your key to run. You should hear the pump motor start and run for about 3 seconds. Also you can move the float up and down to test your fuel sender unit. It should make your dash guage move up and down.

9. Reinstall tank, pretty much the opposite of above, just make sure you get the filler tube lined up before you put the bolts in place.

10. Reinstall the exhaust, WD-40 works wonders on getting that rubber cushion to slide off and on BTW.

Hope that helps. Good luck!

Ryan
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Sunday, August 31st, 2008 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
RYANBLIZZ
  • MEMBER
Okay, I just dropped the tank again to remove the u-joints, and I would like to correct a few errors from my earlier post.

Step 2 correction: There is a cross beam that connects under the exhaust pipe. Remove this by taking out the 4 bolts (8mm heads). The exhaust has already "Y" to the single here, just remove the two nuts that connect the flange. I did not remove the entire rear exhaust, I left the rear two hangers on, and just removed the hanger in the middle.

Step 3 correction: The strap runs front to back on the fuel tank. There is 4 bolts total, one in each corner.

Step 6 correction: There are no special quick realase fuel connections here, just the standard hose clamps.

That is all that I found wrong.

Ryan
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Thursday, September 4th, 2008 AT 9:13 PM

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