Accelerator sticks - not slowing down?

Tiny
OUTFIELD98
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 FORD TAURUS
2005 ford Taurus, 60k miles, 6.0 engine. When I am driving, I will press on the accelerator, sometimes the idle sticks, I have to tap on it a couple of times for it to go back down, I tried to clean out the throttle intake but it seems like it didn't work, could this be a sensor issue or cable problem and how hard would it be to fix myself?
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Saturday, May 26th, 2007 AT 10:40 AM

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Tiny
RUDPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 224 POSTS
On the side of the throttle intake there should be a lever with a spring in it and a cable attached to it. Try operating it by hand, this will open the throttle plate. When you let go of it, it should snap back firmly. If not, the spring might be loose or damaged. Try it and post back.
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Saturday, May 26th, 2007 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
OUTFIELD98
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The spring worked fine, I used cleaner to clean out throttle intake and throttle itself, there was a lot of buildup and it was causing idle to stick. My accelerator problem is fixed, thanks for your help!
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Monday, May 28th, 2007 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
PAUL WILBURN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
When I put on gas car engins runs fast but car dosen't respont, need reduce fuel petal move car along slowly started friday.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

Ok. I believe you are having a transmission problem. You say that when you press on the gas the engine reves but the vehicle doesn't speed up the same as engine speed.

Is your check engine light on? If so and you can get it to your local auto zone or similar have them pull the codes then post them here in forum.

Have you had a transmission service done on the vehicle? If not check fluid, if looks brown it is burnt and you will need to have the tranny fluid and filter changed.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,883 POSTS
Disconnect the battery cables and short them together, that will clear all learned data from the ECM.

Then try a test, Disconnect the IAC and see if the idle drops.

If it idles down and the throttle responds when you pull the IAC connector off, verify that you have the correct IAC valve, there are a couple out there that are supposed to be correct but actually are the wrong part. One with a brass insert and spring and one with no insert. You want the one without the insert.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID JIMENEZ2
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
Thanks! Will try the battery leads shorting step today after work. That is a really good idea, wish I thought of that! With the IAC valve, what part is brass? The plunger, the cup? Or better yet where on the IAC is the insert located?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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The brass insert is inside the valve opening. The issue is that there are two 3 liter engines, used and the valves will physically interchange. Then there are two different designs of one of the valves as well.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID JIMENEZ2
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
After pulling and shorting battery cables there is better idle, less frequent hunting of rpm in Park and gear with brake applied and doesn't go so high as before when turning on the climate control, but the sticky accelerator issue is still there. Just not as pronounced. If I unplug the IAC the idle drops a little bit with no climate control on and in Park, and with it on it almost dies when the AC clutch kicks in every ten seconds or so. But when I drive down the road with it unplugged, the sticky throttle problem goes away entirely. I have checked the IAC and it is not a brass model, and the spare I purchased is a brass model and when I plug the brass one in, the rpm goes nuts, so I am guessing it is the one for the other engine? The original IAC was thrown out last year so the one I have been running on is supposedly the correct one? I noticed the brass one has a stamped Roman numeral I stamped inside the chamber and the one without the brass insert has a Roman numeral II. You mention there are two different valve designs? How can I tell which one is for this car? I am tempted to adust the idle manually and leave the IAC unplugged. Thanks so much for your help. Do you have any further suggestions/guidance?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID JIMENEZ2
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Here is a side by side comparison after cleaning the one without the brass.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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There is the problem; Both of those are the other design with the spring loaded valve.
This is what it should look like. Notice no spring or bushing. Ford # 1F1E-9F715BA

When it is at idle that valve stays really close to closed with the ECM sending a pulsed signal to it to open it sort of like this (Closed = _ open = ) __ __ __ __ __ __ ). The more "open" pulses the more air the valve lets in and the idle goes up.
In your case the spring is holding the valve open and the ECM still pulses the valve once you let off but with the spring there the valve isn't actually closing until the constant pulse from the ECM sort of hammers the valve closed.

I would be very tempted to visit the parts store, buy a new one, open the box to verify it is correct, bring it home. Then take a pair of needle nose pliers and remove the spring on the current valve, put it back on and see if the sticky throttle goes away. I am betting it does. Then return the new part for a refund.

Once you get the valve fixed, reset the idle to correct spec and you should be good.

Then you can be like the rest of the mechanics in the world when you discover that the "right part" is sometimes the wrong part, thanks to a minor revision, or an "improved" part that is not.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDAL DEAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
Car eventually slows down, but only after quite a while. I can travel miles at forty five mph without touching the gas. This is true if I use the cruise control or not. If I apply the brakes, it will slow down, but it is like the gas pedal is still being pressed down. When I place the transmission in neutral, the rpm's go up. This only happens when in gear. When I come to a stop, I have to brake until it shifts to first gear, then it settles down to a manageable rpm. It idles at 750 rpm's at a stop. But once I take my foot off the brake, rpm's will slowly climb up to 1,500 rpm's shifting into the next gears. I also noticed that while accelerating up to fifty five to sixty mph, there is sometimes a "rough" spot around forty five to fifty mph where the car sometimes loses power or shudders very briefly and feels like I ran out of gas or is trying to shift gears, but then just as quickly, it recovers. I also must add that whenever the climate control switch is placed in any position clockwise of the center off position (floor and dash, floor, WinDefr and floor, WinDefr, respectively), or in the two AC settings, the rpm's spike up to 1,500 rpm's and the AC clutch engages. This does not happen when using the dash vent position. I thought that the clutch should only engage when set to AC/MAX AC or the two defrost positions, but maybe that is how Ford does it. In any case, the spike in rpm cause the vehicle to suddenly lurch if in any forward or reverse gears. There are no codes being thrown by the computer.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,883 POSTS
Oh, forgot the heater core issue. A way to fix that is to clamp off the heater lines, remove them, flush the core both ways, then install a coolant filter in the line that sends coolant to the heater. There are a few out there. I like the cheap way myself. Get a set of solid brass garden hose ends (male and female) in 1/2" or 5/8" (to match the heater hose size) and a few of the filter screens like you put in a pressure washer hose. Add those to the line with a couple good clamps. They will catch the larger crud that likes to block the core. For folks who want the ready made version google
RF002 - Universal Heater Core Coolant Filter Set

Or you can get the "fancy" version from these folks.
http://www.ganofilters.com/

One other option I did on another vehicle is to install the fittings in both lines. (one set reversed from the other) This allows the option of bypassing the core if it starts leaking and you can easily flush the core or cooling system in both directions with a garden hose.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

This could be either the idle air control motor or the throttle body.

I would clean the throttle body first before going to the idle air control.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Roy
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID JIMENEZ2
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
Steve, where the heck were you last year when I started this mess! You have been incredibly helpful in my quest to fix this car. I have literally put over eighty man hours the last two weeks chasing this problem, not counting the time from last year, countless visits to the "parts" store, and mom and pop mechanic shops. I have the part on the way this time I am cutting my losses and ordering directly from the local Ford dealership. (Actually I am adding to my $$ losses, but saving myself further heartache and time visiting all the parts stores in search of this elusive part).

As far as the heater core flush/filter install goes, I will have to look into that. I would have to take it to a friend's garage (with heat and running water and a drain) to do that, I think I would do your method of just buying the parts instead of the "kit". This car seems to get that core plugged issue, something must be rotting away internally to plug it up so badly, so quickly after a flush (second time in two years). One possibility for the low heat issue could be a fresh air mixer/vent damper not closing/opening fully when in the max heat position (so i'm told by the guy who flushed the core last time). Do you know how to troubleshoot this so I can eliminate it from the possibility. I just had the thermostat replaced on last Friday (no effect), and the core flushed on Monday worked better-ish for a day, and then low heat issue came back a day later.

Thanks again, and I will post the results on the IAC later today.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,883 POSTS
When you do the flush, do it in the reverse of the way the water flows through it. I made a core flushing machine because I got really fed up with heater cores.

For the blend door, you remove the lower trim panel (behind the dash, passenger side foot well) Blend door and actuator is right there. To get the upper bolts easier you can pop the glove box out.
Sort of like this....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xK7rP49gfio

Note the time when he says to watch this part as it will fall down. That lever connects to the blend door. If you watch that while moving the temp button it will tell you if the door is closing.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID JIMENEZ2
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
The new OEM IAC works great! Just need back off the throttle stop screw a little bit (it's nearly flush now, as the deceleration is still a little too sluggish for my likes.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,883 POSTS
Do another battery cable ECM reset with the new valve. It will need to re-learn the idle characteristics of the new valve.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID JIMENEZ2
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
I did that when I installed the new IAC. I now do that every time I change a component. I read somewhere that the throttle stop screw should be set fully backed off and then given one full turn clockwise, mine is set at 2 or 3 full turns.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID JIMENEZ2
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Everything is running just fine now. Time to give it back to my daughter. This was quite the learning experience! Thanks again, Steve!
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 12,883 POSTS
Remind her that the next repair is her job. (Yeah right, like a dad is going to do that).

Glad you got it all sorted out. You're very welcome. Thank you for using 2CarPros. Com Please return with any auto related questions, we're here to help.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 1:56 PM (Merged)

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