Intermitant brake pedal pressure for my 1999 Ford Ranger XLT

Tiny
STISD94944
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD RANGER
:cry: I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT with 89000 miles. I took my truck to the dealer to have them determine why the dash light was on. They determined that my ABS computer was bad and needed to be replaced. After the repair ($700) I've noticed my brake pressure cycle between good to very weak. I took the truck back and they told me the computer has nothing to do with pedal pressure. They looked at it again and said all the cyclnders seals look good. They tough the problem might be from the rear brakes overheating due to bad emergency brake cables. They replaced the cables ($400) and lines in the rear and sent me home. The next day when I got in the truck the problem was still there. Brake pedal pressure is fine for a day or two then it will go all the way to the floor for about a day then go back to having good pressure. There is no air in the lines, the brake cyclinders dont seem to have a leak. What else might be the problems. I've had brake shops look at it and they cant find the problem. Please HELP!
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Saturday, September 9th, 2006 AT 10:23 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
NOS
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The only thing I can think of is the master cyclinder bypassing fluid once in a while I don't under stand why no one can find the problem. There has to be something wrong some where. Whitout seeing the truck myfriend my really best guess is the master cyclinder one time you push on brake it is good and next time maybe or maybe not it will work the master cyclinder does go the the ABS computer when you applie the break a motor kicks on in the valveing and keeps the pedel from being applied to hard. Have you ever tryed to lock the brakes down on this truck and feel the peddle bump against the bottom of your foot? Well that is the ABS taking over. So don't rule out the master cyclinder that is a cheaper fix to at least try than all the rest of that stuff. Man hope this helps youit sounds like you have been screwed over royaly and i'am sorry but it does happen all too man times.(NOS)
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Monday, September 11th, 2006 AT 11:55 PM
Tiny
STISD94944
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Thank you very much! Are there tests I can run (or a brake shop) that will tell me if it is the mastercylinder or not?
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Tuesday, September 12th, 2006 AT 6:05 AM
Tiny
NOS
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Well that is a good question. One thing to remember there are steel lines going to the master cyclinder so you can't clamp the lines off. But the lines going to the wheels are rubber. You will need three pairs of visegrips. On the front clamp the rubber hose going to the caliper on each front wheel not too hard though just enough so fluid won't pass by. Now go to the back behind the axel and look up on the driverside frame you will see another rubber hose it runs down to the axel to supply the rear brakes do the same thing clamp it off this will isolate all the wheels. Ok now press on the peddle is it real hard or does it drift down. If when you push on it and it goes all the way down replace the master cyclinder or if it is hard and you let it set for a bit and then push on it and it goes down replace the master cyclinder. Another thing the master cyclinder will do is leak fluid out the back of it and it runs down the booster if it is real wet at the backend of the master replace it because it will also get into the booster and ruine it. Not much more I can tell you now about that check that out first and get back to me.(NOS) 8)
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Tuesday, September 12th, 2006 AT 6:33 PM

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