1995 Ford Mustang Help

MJCWOLFE

MEMBER
1995 FORD MUSTANG
V8
2WD
MANUAL
101,000 MILES

I filled my gas tank at 1p.M. Yesterday afternoon, after an hour or so of driving I pulled out of a store lot when it decided to just stahl. I thought maybe I did something with the clutch. I have been driving stick since I was 16 and I am 27 but you never know. I drove to where my husband was working about two blocks up the street again at the stop sign I pulled out and after trying to shift to second still moving it shut off again. We called a gentlemen that we normally take the car to which consists of a ten minute drive that is up a slight mountain with no pull offs at all. The car was trying to die out, I had it in third gear at 3 rpms just so it would try to stay in power, the rpm gage would go from the 3 to 0 as if it was shut off but it didnt and I had my foot flat to the floor with no power at all. It continued to do this all the way to the garage stopping and going, I would shut if off restart it in the middle of the road and step on it to try to make it the rest of the way. When we got there my husband took the mechanic for a ride and the car did absolutely nothing. My luck! I tried to argue with them both explaining to my husband he just followed me up the mountain and seen what it was doing and for the last year if you would go through the shifting of the gears the check engine light would come on then go off after a little and when you are at a particular speed or certain turns that you should only have to keep it in second it has a very strange rattling sound. Not sure if that has anything to do with what is going on but just in case I thought I would let you know. They made me bring it home and said it was bad gas it didnt do it on the way home, but this morning I went to pick the kids up and I didnt even get to the stop sign at the bottom of my hill and the car started shutting off again, going in and out of the rpm, I would have no power then all of a sudden with my foot flat to the floor it was like I was trying to lay a set. Can you please tell me what is wrong with my car. I need it for work and all the garages in this small town tell me throw some dry gas in it and work it out, or they dont have a compter that hooks up to my car to see what is wrong. This is a 95 ford mustang gt with the 5.0 engine last year they made them.

Thursday, July 23rd, 2009 AT 3:31 PM

1 Reply

BRUE

MEMBER
2 POSTS

I would first check for any pvc hose that maybe disconected it seems like it's not geting fuel check the fuel filter and the fuel line for any problems. 94-95 Mustangs Electrical CCRM

Overview

The Constant Control Relay ModuleThe CCRM is also known as the "Constant Control Relay Module"

EEC relay, fuel pump relay, EDF and HEDF relay diagnostic pathways.
Some EEC relay diagnostics: If it seems like none of the EEC systems are receiving power (underhood solenoids, fuel injectors, etc), here's a place to look. First check the PCM/CCRM fuse in the underhood fuse box (20 amps). Also check the ignition switch fuses.

At the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module - the black box mounted on the radiator overflow bracket): With the key turned to run, check Pin 12 and 24 for accessory power. If it's there, the issue lies past the CCRM. If there's no power: Check CCRM Pins 8 and 10 for constant 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 13 for accessory 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 15 for ground. If 8, 10, 13 and 15 are present (this requires the key to be on), but 12 and 24 are not showing 12 volts, that suggests a bad EEC relay inside the CCRM.

Fuel pump relay diagnostics: First, always check the inertia switch in the trunk and the fuel pump fuse in the underhood fuse box (20 amps). Also check the ignition switch fuses. With the key turned to run and checking within the fuel pump prime-out period (a duration of 2-5 seconds after turning the key to run): Check CCRM pin 5 for accessory 12 volts. If you have it, the issue lies downstream. If not: Check CCRM Pin 11 for constant 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 13 for accessory 12 volts. Check CCRM Pin 18 for a ground signal during the prime-out.

If this is all good, check the inertia switch (located in the driver side trunk, adjacent the tail light) and fuel pump electrical connector at the tank.