1995 Ford F350 V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual 127233 miles
I'VE PUT A NEW MATCHED SET CLUTCH IN MY TRUCK. NEW INTERNAL CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER, NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER BECAUSE THE OLD ONE WAS LEAKING WHERE THE HYDRAULIC LINE WENT IN. BLED THE SYSTEM AND THE TRANSMISSION IS STILL HAVING A HARD TIME GOING INTO GEAR. FINALLY DROVE IT DOWN THE ROAD AND IT SHIFTED FINE UNTIL I COME TO DEAD STOP. HARD TO GET INTO GEAR. BLED THE SYSTEM AGAIN, THIS TIME THE FLUID LOOKED FOAMY. I LET IT SET FOR AN HOUR AND TRIED TO BLEED IT AGAIN. PEDAL IS STILL SPONGY AND I AM STILL HAVING A HARD TIME GETTING IT TO GO INTO GEAR AT A DEAD STOP. NOW THERE IS A SQUEALING AT TIMES WHEN I LET OFF THE GAS AND EVEN WHEN I HIT A BUMP IN THE ROAD. IF I GET BACK ON THE GAS OR TAP THE CLUTCH PEDAL IT WILL STOP FOR A BIT AND THEN WILL START BACK UP. IF IT IS SQUEALING WHILE I'M ON THE GAS, I LET OFF THE GAS AND GET BACK ON THE GAS AND IT STOPS.
Let try and bleed the system again 1st try it this way
PS was the flywheel checked?
Using Disconnect Tool (T88T-70522-A), disconnect coupling at transmission by lightly tugging on clutch tube while sliding White plastic sleeve toward slave cylinder.
Clean area around reservoir cap. Fill reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. Using hand pressure, apply 10-15 pounds to clutch pedal.
If pedal is spongy, go to next step.
Using a screwdriver, open valve of male coupling. Slowly depress clutch pedal to floor and hold.
Remove screwdriver to close valve, and release clutch pedal. Ensuring reservoir is full, repeat step.
Close reservoir and reconnect coupling. Rapidly depress clutch pedal 5-10 times, wait 1-3 minutes, then repeat procedure 3 more times. Place hose on bleeder screw to prevent brake fluid from entering bellhousing. Loosen bleeder screw and maintain fluid level in reservoir.
Fluid and bubbles will flow from hose attached to slave cylinder bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw when fluid stream is free of air bubbles. Ensure fluid level is correct and install reservoir cap.
Place light pressure on clutch pedal and open bleeder screw. Maintain pressure until pedal contacts floor. Close bleeder screw while pedal is fully depressed. DO NOT allow pedal to return before bleeder screw is fully closed. Recheck fluid level.
Test system operation by starting vehicle, depressing clutch and placing gearshift in Reverse. No grinding should be heard or felt when clutch pedal is within 1/2" (13 mm) of floor. If noise is heard, check for air in system. Repeat bleeding procedure if necessary.
June, 10, 2009 AT 12:33 PM
Yes the flywheel was checked and was ok. I have a new hydraulic hose. Do I need to put on and then rebleed or try to bleed the way you recommended first.
June, 10, 2009 AT 5:24 PM
Its a lot of work if you need to do the hose do it 1st as if you to replace it later you will have to bleed the system all over again
let me know
June, 10, 2009 AT 9:36 PM
What do you think the squealing is when I let out on the clutch. I think it may be the throw out bearing. Could it be because of the clutch needing to be bled.
June, 11, 2009 AT 6:03 AM
I m not sure
when you hear the sound step on the clutch sound goes away, I have to say yes suspect bearing
do not over look exhaust shields too