1986 Ford F-150 no more power to CAB/dash

Tiny
NAILED
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 FORD F-150
Electrical problem
1986 Ford F150 V8 Two Wheel Drive Manual 100k miles

history: bought 3 weeks back, ignition switch/key switch would not return to run/drive position on its own so I would just turn back a bit & no problem, so I thought until my wife took it while I was at work & you probally guessed she did not return the key to proper position.I put in a rebuilt starter&silonoid yesterday but had to jump it off between the poles on silonoid.I now have no power to cab or dash and the key switch turns without a key. Help me Please!
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 1:16 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
OK Boss, SEE MY PROFILE. Stole below from another question I answered (I type slow)

The following is not all going to apply to you....it was written to another Jeep Guy.

Most of it will apply---Jeep used Ford solenoid systems for years.

Pay special attention to explanations ABCD1234567

Respond at bottom..."REPLY TO QUESTION"

Hope you bring back good news.

The Medic

----PASTED ON PORTION

Several things to check :

See if "I" terminal on your SOLENOID is putting out constant 12V instead of 12V when key is in the start position (temporary 12V while starting only) I'll give you a "Nelsomatic" Pic

THIS IS MASSIVE OVERKILL--BUT LOOK AT, MAKE SURE YOU ARE SET UP LIKE THIS

TEST "S" and "I" make sure they do what the diagrams say they should do (MORE STUFF AT BOTTOM)

Yours may not look like this,

TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.

IF YOU HAVE A JEEP CJ, YOU SHOULD PUT YOUR WIRES IN THE EXACT LOCATIONS AS SHOWN IN THE DIAGRAMS BELOW----TEST "S" WIRE, while removed from the solenoid (12V ONLY w/key cranking [starting position],) AND INSURE IT GOES ON LOCATION "C"


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLENOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLENOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION (via "RESISTOR WIRE, COMING FROM YOUR "ACTUAL IGNITION SWITCH"). IGNITION SWITCH IS "ROD OPERATED" AND IS LOCATED 12 O'CLOCK ON YOUR STEERING COLUMN....OTHER SIDE OF DASH...OVER YOUR PEDALS

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

Unfortunatly your Jeep is almost as old as my newest! (My '77 CJ 5)

People tend to rig up stuff/splice/remove things over the years....

Are you running a COIL---EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY?

The wire from your key (on position) is not all, but partly a RESISTANCE WIRE (just like using a CERAMIC type resistor) UNLESS SMARTY-PANTS GOOFUS removed/replaced/tied into it, years ago

Any wild stuff with the ignition module wires?

The Medic
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2010 AT 9:29 PM
Tiny
NAILED
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I have put in the new silonoid but still have no power and I do have concerns about the ignition switch on stearing coloum, but "I don't even have a dome light any more and all fuses in box are good.I guess I fried a wire somewhere between starter and/or silonoid. Just need a good place to start, any wisdom to share?
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Friday, August 13th, 2010 AT 12:29 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Did you check fusible links as I described in "7" last answer?

Do you have headlights?

Should be one (1) big cable between Solenoid and Starter.

How about grounds and connections----did you actually remove and clean each mechanical joint. To include cable to connectors at battery?

12V at solenoid?

Did you test "S" wire for 12V when key in "Cranking Position"?

The Medic
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Friday, August 13th, 2010 AT 5:08 PM
Tiny
NAILED
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Hey Medic, Thanks for all the help everything is clean and making great contact, The problem ended up being a bad new silonoid cracked on bottom with things rattling inside the silonoid Checkers maybe cheeper than Auto Zone Now I know why. Thanks again, Nailed
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Monday, August 16th, 2010 AT 8:38 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I really appreciate the replyI'd rather"Read a Smile"than to get "Feedback & Votes" (I haven't found anywhere to spend the "15" I have accumulated thus far.)

They do however, sorta tell my "NEXT VICTIM" how I helped.....or not, to a previous question (one of my votes is a Negative? Go Figure? Me? Bad info?)

Alot of times in my answers I say, "Even a new part could be bad".....Sorry I slipped up this time.

Nailed maybe better than Screwed?

For a real pleasurable--around forever--In my case I was"EPOXY-ED"Been stuck to 'em since day 1, 1981, when I got my 1st RIG the 1st of 7 JEEP CJs (all are/ were primary drivers.)

You need to get "EPOXY-ED" to what I have below, then you will be HAPPY!!!

The Medic

1946 Willys "WILLY"


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_Picture_008_1.jpg



1977 CJ 5 "MR. JEEP"


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_MR_JEEP_SSV_STREET_SURVIVAL_VEHICLE_HIS_GOOD_SIDE_1.jpg

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Monday, August 16th, 2010 AT 9:20 PM

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