2001 Ford Explorer Sport - Low Speed Brake Slippage

Tiny
DARENG
  • 2001 FORD EXPLORER

Hi all. I need a little help diagnosing a brake problem. My SUV truck is 2001 Ford Explorer Sport - SOHC 2 wheel drive. I recently replaced the rotors, brake pads and bearings on all 4 wheels.

Now my truck brakes on a dime especially when I brake hard. It also brakes smoothly with no issues when braking hard. However, I noticed that when braking at low speeds, my brakes appear to momentarily dissenguage or slip for a moment. This only happens when driving at low speeds. This does not happen every time but often enough to notice there is an issue.

I double checked for the proper torque on the caliper bolts. I didn't remove the brake line hoses from the caliper when I did the brake job. I don't think I did anything else to break the system so I don't see how I could have gotten air in the system.

So I am a little stumped what could be causing the issue. Could air in the line be causing this issue? I was experiencing so much pulsating in the brakes before I replaced the rotors that I guess I might not have noticed the truck doing this before. My only other thought was a sticky caliper. However, I doubt that because the calipers compressed just fine when I did the brake job.

I'm stumped.

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Wednesday, August 16th, 2006 AT 11:01 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
DARENG
  • MEMBER

OK, update. Just driving it a bit, I noticed that number 1, the brakes don't do it all the time. Two, that when it does happen, if feels like the brakes are engauged and then they slip just before I come to a stop.

I also noticed now that when I go over 55 miles per hour, I sense a slight wobble. I wasn't not getting that prior to changing the pads and rotors.

Does this sound more like a stuck caliper?

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Tuesday, August 29th, 2006 AT 1:07 AM
Tiny
DARENG
  • MEMBER

Anyone?

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2006 AT 4:23 PM
Tiny
NOS
  • MEMBER

It sounds like you may have a brake line problem. Q: were the pads wore down worse on one wheel more that the other? What I would do is start at the front, jack it up. Have a friend help you. Have him step lightly on the brake and try to turn the wheel keep doing it till it stops with lots of resistance have them hold the peddle there and go to other side and see if wheel turns. Sometime when the factory crimps the holding bracket to the hose they get carried away and over a period of time the hose collaps inside and lets fluid pass through but makes it return slowly to the master cyclinder the next time you use the brake the fluid may not folw to the caliper soon enough and cause the slow stop. Not always but most of the time it is the right one that hangs up. Hope this helps. (NOS) 8)

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2006 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
DARENG
  • MEMBER

All the pads were pretty even but the drivers side back one. That pad had more wear then the others.

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2006 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
NOS
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Did you make sure that the slides that the bolts went through were good and free and moved easy? I don't think you have and air problem :lol:

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2006 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
DARENG
  • MEMBER

Not sure what you mean. The only bolts I had to remove were the caliper bolts. I double checked with a torque wrench to make sure they were right. They went in nice and easy without any obstruction.

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Wednesday, September 6th, 2006 AT 11:37 PM
Tiny
NOS
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What I mean is on the caliper there are two cyclinder looking things that the bolts go through these have to move back forth so the caliper has something to move back and forth on that is where it gets its clamping power from once you bolt them back on they got to be able to move so whem you step on the pedle the caliper moves on these sleves so the outer shoes can clamp too it is like takeing two of your fingers on one had and squeeseing the together well the caliper works in same way if it can you get poor breaking cause it can't clamp. Hope this explains a little better.(NOS)

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Thursday, September 7th, 2006 AT 7:04 PM

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