overheating

the first thing you need to do is locate your leak,becuase if it's letting coolant out it's lettingair in.try pressurizing the cooling system and looking for the leak,chek around the radiator,hoses,intake manifold and around the heater core,check your inside floorboards also.if nothing is found then pressure test the radiator cap.if it's ok then it's time for a leak down test.you may have air in the system but don't just bleed it out you need to know where it's coming from.

It could be your water pump gasket. It most likely is your freeze plug if you have been running tap water through the block. This leads to corrosion of the freeze plugs.

[quote:7bc1edb097="midtech"]Engine Cooling problem
1992 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 200000 miles

My '92 Explorer overheated 25miles from home, as I was driving it began making a gurggling sound, and lost power. I pulled off roadway, and let cool off. Replaced water in radiator, then drove another 21 miles before it again overheated, again I pulled off highway and allowed it to cool off, replaced lost water, and drove the remaining distance home.
I am pretty sure it is the water pump, however a mechanic I know said he feels it blew the head gasket, he replace my heater core a couple months ago, and when he tested cooling system, told me there was Hydrocarbons in the engine.[/quote:7bc1edb097]

Hello,

Here are a few things to look at....

First thing is the Fan Clutch - with engine cold spin fan it should spin pretty easy. Now run engine to operating temp then turn off, spin fan again it should be hard to spin. If spins same as when cold replace Fan Clutch.

Next - with engine cold remove radiator cap. Start engine, look for bubbling and smell for exhaust fumes. If has exhaust smell, then yes you do have a blown head gasket.

Also feel upper radiator hose, be carefull could be hot, if with engine at operating temp upper hose feel cold or not as hot as you think it should be then could have stuck thermostat.

Check out above and post findings....


.

I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT i have changed the water pump, thermostat, heater core, radiator, and fan and the truck is still over heating. The minute you start to drive it the temp. gauge goes to hot and the truck starts to over heat. I was told that maybe its the motor. Someone said that it was maybe the head but yet there is no antifreeze in the oil.

The head gasket can fail an inject exhaust heat into water jacket. This raises coolant dramaticaly. If no white smoke from exhaust have coolant checked for CO2.

Thank you for taking the time to reply to my question.

My fiance' and I have been trying to diagnose and repair the problem with my mom's Explorer. We've replaced the fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, temperature sensor and still haven't figured out why her car is still overheating. The upper radiator hose has also been replaced... the lower hose is good. What else could be causing the overheating? Could the radiator be clogged or is there something else we are just over looking?

Can be intake manifold gasket, or in sevser cases the heads also need replacing.. heres the tech bulliten.: 4.0L COOLANT LOSS - REVISED INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Reference Number(s): 95-9-10,  Date of Issue:   May 8, 1995 Related Ref Number(s): 95-9-10 ARTICLE BEGINNING CONDITIONS COOLING SYSTEM - LOSS OF COOLANT -4.0L ENGINE - REVISED INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURE LEAKS - COOLANT -4.0L ENGINE - REVISED INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURE APPLICATION Model(s): Ford Light Truck: 1992-94 Aerostar, Explorer, Ranger Bulletin No.: 95-9-10 Date: May 8, 1995 ISSUE Coolant loss, with no visible sign of leakage, may occur on some vehicles. This may be due to internal leaks from a failed intake manifold gasket caused by loose intake manifold bolts, a fouled intake manifold, pitting/corrosion, or loose cylinder head bolts. ACTION Refer to the following procedures for service details. INSPECTION PROCEDURE 1. Run the engine for 10 minutes, or as required, to build pressure in the cooling system for a leak inspection. Examine the radiator, side tanks, coolant recovery bottle, hoses and connections, intake manifold, cylinder heads and block for external coolant leaks. If no external leak can be found, then the concern may be with the lower intake manifold gasket, intake manifold pitting/corrosion, or with low cylinder head bolt torque. 2. Measure the cylinder head bolt torque. If torque is less than 80 Nm (59 lb-ft), replace Cylinder Head Gasket (F5TZ-6051-A RH, and F5TZ-6051-B LH) using the procedure in this TSB NOTE: Due to air being trapped in the cooling system, it is not unusual to add 4-7 oz (118-207 ml) coolant up to 7500 miles (12,000 km) after initial fill.article. 3. If coolant loss continues, even with proper head bolt torque, remove intake manifold and remove all old gasket material and any coolant residue with a soft non-metallic or aluminum wire brush. Inspect manifold for corrosion/erosion/pitting damage at the four (4) water passages. See Fig. 1 . If damaged, the intake manifold must be replaced. 4. Replace the lower intake manifold gasket with the new Carrier-type Intake Manifold Gasket (F5TZ-9439-A). Use the procedures found in this TSB article. DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE INTAKE AND CYLINDER HEAD GASKETS Service the intake manifold (lower) and cylinder head gaskets per the appropriate Powertrain/Drivetrain Service Manual, when required. INSTALLATION ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE AFTER REMOVING BOTH CYLINDER HEAD AND INTAKE MANIFOLD 1. Remove all old gasket material with a soft non-metallic or aluminum wire brush. 2. Before installing the new gasket, remove all old sealer from the intake, heads and block surfaces, and check for proper condition. Clean all exposed areas very thoroughly with Metal Surface Cleaner (F4AZ-19A536-RA) or denatured alcohol. 3. Position cylinder head gaskets on cylinder block. Install cylinder head locating dowels. Position the cylinder heads onto the gaskets and locating dowels. See Fig. 4 . CAUTION: Do not use a sand disk or similar power tool. If the intake manifold surface is pitted (Fig. 1 ), then the manifold must be replaced. CAUTION: Do not use a sand disk or similar power tool. NOTE: The 4.0L engine should always be assembled using new cylinder head bolts. NOTE: If the engine received has bolts instead of guide studs (as in item 3, Fig. 6 ), then temporarily replace bolts with guide studs (E805676-S72). If guide studs are not in stock, fabricate by removing the heads from two (2) bolts (W700166-S309). install them snugly in the cylinder block holes that match holes 3 and 4 (Fig. 7 ). if guide studs were on the vehicle received, then loosen the studs 1/2 turn before proceeding. NOTE: The cylinder head(s) and intake manifold are torqued alternately

Engine Cooling problem
1992 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My 1992 Ford Explorer has started overheating. Once the engine gets hot enough it starts pushing the coolant back out thru the resevoir tank. There was a leak underneath the vehicle and smoke coming thru the vent. I used two bottles of Stop Leak in the radiator and that stopped the leaking and the smoke. but not the overheating, today I had the thermostat replaced but has not solved the problem. Could I need a need a new Water pump or could the radiator(used) be clogged???

[quote:c8b3e14b36="clove38"]Engine Cooling problem
1992 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My 1992 Ford Explorer has started overheating. Once the engine gets hot enough it starts pushing the coolant back out thru the resevoir tank. There was a leak underneath the vehicle and smoke coming thru the vent. I used two bottles of Stop Leak in the radiator and that stopped the leaking and the smoke. but not the overheating, today I had the thermostat replaced but has not solved the problem. Could I need a need a new Water pump or could the radiator(used) be clogged???[/quote:c8b3e14b36]

Either the water pump or the radiator could cause the overheating. Also, check belt tension and the condition of the belt and tensioner. A slipping belt can also make you overheat. Also check the condition of the hoses. A soft hose can close up and restrict coolant flow.

Check for coolant circulation with the engine warming up from cold. You should feel a temperature change at the upper radiator hose when the thermostat begins to open. If you do not get a temperatuer change, then the coolant is not circluating, and you need to look at the water pump or belt. If you do feel a change in temperature, then it is more likely a plugged radiator.

Also, be careful about using "fixes in a can" as most will cause more problems than they solve. Stop leak will clog up a radiator and heater core.

'95 limited edition-V6-4WD-automatic-195,000mi

engine over heats ( I mean PEGGED!)
oil pressure is hi ( I mean PEGGED)
battery is on the low side
the computer says check engine temp. but it doesn't seem to be over heating just a loss of power when this occurs.

just installed a new thermostat and put in a can of stop leak (which seemed to help). it went from loosing 2 gal per drive to 1 gal.

had the water pump replaced about a year and a half ago. i can't see wear the water is leaking from but there is a rust residue all under the engine.

there has always been a weird electrical problem with different lights on the dash flashing on and off.

help!

If you loose 1 gallon per drive the leak MUST be enormous...If you can't find it get a pressure test done at a radiator shop. They will find it in a jiffy!
Sounds like a corroded freeze plug.

My car overheated a couple of days ago and now there seems to be water leaking out of it but i cant pinpoint where its coming from. the car still runs like normal and it hasnt overheated again yet. any ideas?

It's hard to say. Try this. Place cardboard under the vehicle where you normally park. Check it after a few hours or overnight to determine if the leak is from the front, sides... Let me know and then we will narrow it down.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I just got my 1994 Ford Explorer yesterday from A friend who left it sit for A year and I was driveing it today and it tried to over heat.It got pretty hot then cooled down.It seemed like it would get hot,A little passed normal then cool down.I was thinking the thermostat may be sticking.That is the only thing I can think of.I just wanted to know what you guys thought.Thank you

I believe you are correct. And if nothing else, it's a cheap part to replace. I would also flush the radiator and top off w/fresh 50/50. Check the hoses. Is soft, replace.

Thanks for the help.This morning I put 2 liters of water in and filled the radiator.This weekend I will flush the radiator and change the thermostat.Hopefully that will fix the problem.If you have any other advance, please feel free to let me know.Thank you.Patrick

Had the same situation a month back.
Din really know what the issue was. Ended up changing my Radiator, Radiator pump, Sensor (thermostat) and the hose at the bottom...
Turned out that my thermostat was the culprit...

Anyway now, its much much better and no need to do weekly top ups of the radiator fluid. Guess my radiator wanted a change too.

God Bless..
Roy

my 1996 ford explorer is running hot in minuts, the water is running from radiator to oil pump but i dont think its going past the oil pump because the hoses from radiator to pump gets very hot but hose from pump back to the radiator is cold, please tell me what the problem might be

Replace the thermostat and see what happens

i took the thermostat completely out, like i said before, the water is running through til it gets to the oil pump, but i dont think its going past it to go to radiator...could it be the oil pump thats bad?

Check the water pump its not the oil pump that pumps coolant thruout the engine

Engine Cooling problem
1993 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

Put new radiator new thermostat still running hot on me and heat goes out.

Hi:
Did you flush the engine block? Based on the heat loss, is sounds like there is still a blockage. Also, is the vehicle running good other than the overheating? Have you checked to make sure the catylatic converter isn't blocked?

Let me know.

joe

One way to test for a bad water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator hose when the engine is hot and idling. Careful, because the hose will be hot! If you do not feel much coolant circulating through the hose when you rev the engine, the pump may be bad. The other cause might be a bad thermostat that is not opening properly (remove and inspect the thermostat), or a clogged radiator.

My 1999 Ford Explorer is over heating. Put I am not losing water the car is running hot. I looked and saw that the fan was spinning. Could it be the water pump or thermostat?

pull yhe rad cap let the vehicle run until it hits operating temp and fell the upper and lower hoses for heat and also the heater hoses , check for flow in the rasdiator , no flow = bad thermostat or water pump , and def check the hose behind the themostat , you are feeling for hot or cold hoses

thanks , jim

oh and if you are happy with the info please leave some feedback we all donate out time here helping people for free

After starting the car cold, it will do a normal heat up routine, but it will go ALL the way to red line, then back off.. it seems to back off quicker (Come down to normal operating temperatures) if I am going slower. Higher speeds mean that it stays hotter longer. Also it seems like it's running warmer than it should.. It operates a inch or so below maximum temperature. When I shut it off hot, it gurgles a lot and pushes excess coolant into the resevoir.. which I think is normal.

What could be causing this issue?

And as a side note, how much can I expect to pay to replace the clutch in it?

Get the overheating fix 1st try replacing the thermostat and go from there-if it continues get it block and pressure tested.

Engine Cooling problem
1991 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

Replaced head gasket, water pump, fan clutch, thermostat and radiator cap. Have flushed out system. No leaks or holes in radiator. No busted hoses. No oil in water, no water in oil. Any suggestions?

All those new things on except radiator if its not clogged-up could be airlock try bleeding it if it continues to overheat get it block and pressure tested.

Engine Cooling problem
1992 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

i have replaced the thermostat but after i drive for 15 or more miles it overheats and pushes watter into the overflow compartment, i think the watter pump works and there is watter dripping out of the tailpipe is that a head gasket problem

check the engine oil, if it looks milky then you have head gasket issues. also make sure radiator fan is coming on .

Engine Cooling problem
1997 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

My husband is trying to change the thermastate on our 1997 ford explorer He has a repair book but it dose not show the right spot where the thermastate si could you help us find It thank you

THERMOSTAT (EXCEPT 2001 SPORT & SPORT TRAC) Removal & Installation NOTE:Make sure the air cleaner outlet tube screw clamps do not interfere with the throttle body cam. Partially drain the cooling system. Remove the bolts and the accelerator control splash shield. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube. Remove the upper radiator pipe retaining bolt. See Fig. 64 . Disconnect the hose clamp from the pipe-to-thermostat hose at the pipe end. Remove and position hose aside. Remove the thermostat housing bolts, housing and thermostat. See Fig. 65 . Inspect the "O" ring seal. Install a new "O" ring seal if necessary. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Fig. 64: Removing Upper Radiator Pipe Retaining Bolt Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. Fig. 65: Identifying Thermostat Housing Bolts Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

Engine Cooling problem
1993 Ford Explorer Manual

I believe I have a blown head gasket. Is this something I can fix myself, or is it a more involved repair? How much would a repair shop charge?

Minimum $600 and up

INTAKE MANIFOLDS

Removal (Upper) .Remove negative battery cable.
Remove air cleaner intake duct from throttle body.
Remove snow/ice shield to expose throttle linkage.
Remove throttle cable and bracket from throttle body.
Disconnect all vacuum hoses.
Disconnect all electrical connectors.
Relieve fuel pressure. Using Fuel Line Coupling Key (T90P-9550-A), disconnect fuel supply and return lines at fuel supply manifold..
Remove ignition coil.
Remove upper intake manifold bolts.
Remove upper intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly.



Removal (Lower)
With upper intake manifold removed, remove valve covers.
Remove manifold attaching bolts.
Remove lower intake manifold assembly and gasket.

Remove exhaust manifold.
Remove spark plugs.
Remove accessory drive belt. If removing left cylinder head, remove A/C compressor (if equipped). Remove power steering pump and bracket, and position aside.
If removing right cylinder head, remove alternator and bracket. On all cylinder heads, remove rocker arm shaft bolts evenly by loosening bolts 2 turns at a time. Remove rocker arm shaft assembly.
CAUTION :If rocker arm shafts are not loosened gradually, shafts may become bent or damaged.
Mark push rod location for installation reference, and remove push rods.
Remove and discard cylinder head bolts.
Remove cylinder head(s) and gaskets.

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Engine Cooling problem
1993 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

is waterpump bad if hose from radiator is cool and all components are hot, hoses appear to be ok. I think my fan clutch is welded on

Yes it could be the water pump. However the thermostat and a clogged radiator could cause that also. You need to get an infared thermometer and try and find out which component has the blockage.

Engine Cooling problem
1993 Ford Explorer Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I just replace the thermostat and while i let the motor run the bottom hose got hot and the top one did not. also the coolant started to flow out the reserve resovoir. what can cause this and how can i fix it?