Check charging system light?

Tiny
DAVE H
  • EXPERT
TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE:For trouble shooting charging system, see BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING article in GENERAL INFORMATION.

Ensure connections at generator, regulator and engine ground are clean and tight. Ensure battery posts and cables are clean and tight. Inspect drive belt. Inspect central junction box fuse No. 9 (10-amp) and fuse No. 34 (20-amp). Inspect fusible links. Check all connections for looseness or corrosion. If problem is found, repair as necessary. If problem is not found, see SYSTEM TESTS.

BATTERY DRAIN TEST
Ensure junction box/fuse panels are accessible without turning on interior and hood lights. Drive vehicle over 30 MPH for at least 5 minutes. Park vehicle and allow to sit with ignition off for at least 40 minutes to allow electronic modules to power down. Go to next step.
Connect a fused jumper wire between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Disconnect negative battery cable from negative battery post, without breaking the jumper wire connection to prevent modules from resetting. Go to next step.
NOTE:It is very important that continuity is not broken between negative battery post and negative battery cable when disconnecting battery cable or connecting ammeter. If continuity is broken, go to step 1.

Ensure ammeter is set to read milliamps with at least a 10-amp capability. Connect ammeter between negative battery cable and negative battery post. Remove fused jumper wire. Go to next step.
Note amperage draw. Draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference. No factory equipped vehicle should have more than a 24-26 mA draw (0.024-0.026 amp).
If excessive current draw is present, pull fuses from battery/central junction box one at a time and note any current drop when each fuse is removed. DO NOT reinstall fuses until test is complete. Go to next step.
Check wiring diagrams for any circuits that run from battery without passing through battery/central junction box. Disconnect these circuits if current draw still exists.
GENERATOR LOAD TEST
Ensure drive belt is in good condition. Replace belt as necessary. If belt is okay, connect charging system load tester in accordance with manufacturer's instructions. Start and run engine at 2000 RPM, and apply load until generator output levels off. Generator amperage should be at least 75 amps, with engine at 2000 RPM.
If voltage is as specified, system is operating properly at this time. If voltage is not as specified, see SYMPTOM INDEX table under SYSTEM TESTS.
GENERATOR NO-LOAD TEST
Switch tester to voltmeter function. Connect voltmeter positive lead to B+ terminal on generator and negative lead to ground. Turn all electrical accessories off. Start and run engine up to 2000 RPM. Read voltmeter when voltage stabilizes. Voltage should be 13-15 volts.
Turn A/C system on. Turn blower speed to high. Turn headlights on to high beams. Voltage should increase a minimum of.5 volt. If voltage is not as specified, go to SYMPTOM INDEX table under SYSTEM TESTS. If voltage is as specified, charging system is operating normally.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRISJENN
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 131,000 MILES
I have a 4mo old battery. I noticed this warning on Saturday while driving and did not drive on Sunday.
This moring had to jump to start and while driving today warning came on again. I.E. Started right up with jump.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Could be the alternator not putting out or there's a short circuit eating up the battery.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MJR346
  • EXPERT
Not sure on if it's a computer controlled alternator or not, but I'd have the alternator checked and wire from battery to alternator for issues
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
It is computer controlled alternator
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRISJENN
  • MEMBER
How can I find out is my can's atnernator is controled by computer?
2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Baurer 5.4L EFI V8
4 SPD Auto TR NAAO ADDEW/4R

FYI I will be happy to make a donation, just need to wait until tomorrow after a deposit post.

All info is very much appreciated.

Jenny Harris
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Check fuse no.34 15amp again it has a computer also called powertrain control module and see below


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_alty1_20.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_alty2_13.jpg

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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SPANKY739900
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 205,000 MILES
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition V8 5.4. I have replaced the battery, alternator, the fuse panel at the passenger foot, and battery terminals but there is still something electrically wrong.

A couple months ago the starter solenoid went bad and melted a spot on the fuse panel so I had to replace the whole panel. I had replaced that starter fuse multiple times this past year before this happened.

Now, the battery dies after about 30 minutes. I went to the local parts store to get the alternator and battery checked. Battery was good but the alternator reading said that it isn't showing any power out.

What should I check or replace next?
Any ideas?
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Repairing the charging system would be the logical next step. Make sure you check all the fuses and fusible links before changing the alternator.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JLRATLIFFPROV
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 139,000 MILES
I was driving home today and when I got in my vehicle, it started right up. However, when I got about half way home all my dash lights went off and gauges went down. I was able to make it home but barely. Vehicle shut off as I was pulling in driveway. I checked the battery connectors and they were a little loose on the positive side. I tightened it and tried charging it. So I went and got a brand new battery. Hooked it up and and vehicle fires right up. It kind of revs a little high at first but my check charging system in the message center is on and my battery light. Looks like all the belts are running. What do you think I should do next? Could it be my alternator?
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I would go straight to an auto parts store (like Advance Auto Parts or Autozone)

Have them check the Battery (I know!) And the charging system. Your alternator may not be charging the battery (much or at all). The alternator could be bad, voltage regulator, or maybe a blown fuse or fried fusible link is preventing the charge from getting to the battery.

I may not be dead on, but I would start here first to eliminate this easy factor.

Should you need something, check out my link, this can be done on a new fangled phone in the parking lot.

Return here with good news!

The Medic
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LAINLAIN82
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
What might be the problem if the indicator on my expedition reads "check charging system"? I have already replaced the alternator and had the battery checked.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Check all cables are clean and tight, both ends! Check junction fuse box #9 10 amp and fuse #34 20amp, insepect the fusible links, they are on the solinoid near the battery.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LAINLAIN82
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 111,000 MILES
I just recently replaced the alternator on my 2003 Expedition, and now it is running great but the check charging system light will not go off. And now the Advance Track is not working. It says Check advance track. The keyless entry keypad on the door doesn't work. And the climate control on the seats no longer work. What could be the problem? This is driving me crazy. Any assistance that you can give would be greatly appreciated.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Check fuses
also check charging system operation
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERICGRANT1973
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 125,000 MILES
My car check charging system light turns on and off intermittently with the annoying beeping that goes along with it. I replaced the battery but same problem. The alternator died about 2 years ago and had to be replaced but I have had it checked.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Have the alternator checked. It sounds like a failed diode.

Royt
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHDREW87
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 211,100 MILES
I have changed my alternator twice because it wasn't charging my battery and it just happened again and when I take it to the auto parts store they test the alternator and say its bad. Could it be my truck is the one shorting out the alternators.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Cold be if the wiring harness is touching someplace which I kind of doubt. Cold be a crappy rebuilt alternator as well. Check your battery for condition including load test as this can effect it. Also alternator may have to small a charging rate for your application. Also meak sure belt and tensioner is in good shape and not to old.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RICHDREW87
  • MEMBER
They tested the alternator before I took it from the store and the battery is also brand new and belt is still good.
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Friday, November 2nd, 2018 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)

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