Engine will not start and kicks back when you try

I have a code reader. It said no codes.

Check fuel pressure first auto parts rent gauge 60-66 psi then check compression.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Internet not working correctly so I will try again. Spark on plugs, fuel 56lbs. Compression #1 180 #3 195 #5 200 #7 190 #2 200 #4 170 #6 170 #8 165.

Compression is okay, but I gave you fuel specs and yours are to low. Should be 60 minimum.

Could the 4 lbs difference cause a no start? I believe the fuel pump is about a year old.

As long as you have spark.

I decided to retest the fuel pressure when I got home today. Last time I connected the pressure gauge, turned on the switch and moved to read the gauge. This time I positioned the gauge so I could see it while I cranked the engine. I have 61 psi while cranking. What is next?

I read your original post. You mentioned the engine kicks back when trying to start. Have you checked ignition timing? Also, will the engine start for a couple seconds using starting fluid?

I set the crank to TDC and the rotor was on #1, well within 1/8 inch of #1 after. I went to AutoZone today and talked to a guy about it. He asked about testing control module. I took it off tonight and let him test it and it tested ok. I talked to another guy who is a mechanic at a shop. He asked if it fouled any plugs. I noticed when I pulled the plugs out they were all black and sooty. He told me he thinks the fuel regulator is bad and is dumping fuel and sticking shut randomly. He said it could also could be a cracked injector. He has a 1998 5.7 vortex like mine. And he had replaced his after a similar experience. I decided to take a break from it so I put it back together and It started right up. I didn't drive it because it is late. Just backed out of the garage and parked. What are your thoughts on the regulator or injectors or for that matter any thoughts on it. By the way, starting fluid had no effect. The starter either kicking back or reengaging while it was moving trying to start. I was by myself and could not see exactly what was happening.

When you say re-gauging do you mean the starter while the engine is running? Did you change the plug outs for new ones?

Yes, the starter would grind the flywheel after about 30 seconds of starting without releasing the key. Plugs were black and sooty but not built up or clogged. Trucked started and ran fine this morning. Do you have and thoughts on the fuel regulator theory?

I was not sure if it is kicking back or trying to start then re-engaging. I was alone and could not tell what was happening other than grinding on the flywheel.

If the battery is weak it will not release from the starter, here is an easy test to see if the battery is any good or not.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-battery

let me know

Thanks for that. The main issue I am troubleshooting is the no start and the occasional misfire, hard start issues that I am having. The truck did start and seems ok now, but this has been a random problem so I think the trouble still exists. I have discovered a test for the fuel regulator by timing the fuel pressure to see how long it takes to go to 0 psi. I read it should take at least 10 minutes. Any thoughts on that? Thanks

It should not loose more than 10 psi in 5 minutes if it is then replace the regulator assuming your pump is good.

I tested the fuel regulator and it seems to be fine. I dropped about 5 lbs in about 10 minutes. Here's the thing guys, I have noticed after I put everything back together and the truck started, the truck starts very quickly( 2 to 5 seconds) as opposed to cranking over 20 to 25 seconds before starting before all this trouble started. Could this be caused by a plug that had a bad connection? Maybe the control module plug?Or sensor plug?

Probably was a poor connection or it may do it again. Drive it and find out