Engine Light Back On! Trouble Code P0351

Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 245,000 MILES
My engine light is back on!

This is the same issue I have experienced last year. It occurs only when the outside temperature is below freezing even the engine is warm.

I took this to the dealer #1 who indicated that the coil on cylinder #1 is bad. Replaced it and it did not fix the issue. Swapped the coils and confirmed that it is not a coil issue. Swapped the fuel injectors as well to confirm is not fuel system related.

Drove it fine last summer and fall. Just when it got cold, the light came back on.

I have taken the car to dealer #2 who indicated that the issue is a bad PCM and it will cost over $1,000 to fix. I had problem believe this it is PCM related because it only happens during the winter. If it is truly a PCM electrical issue, then why is it not occurring during the summer?

Could this be related to the mass air flow sensor? Or the throttle position sensor?

Thanks,
Jay
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2014 AT 5:53 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
MY WIFE HAS A '03 ESCAPE

(I'M MORE INTO OLDER JEEPS AND CARBURETED VEHICLES-BUT I DO WHAT I GOTTA DO!)

WITH HER ESCAPE, WE HAD SOME ISSUES WITH EVERY NOW AND THEN A FAST/ REPETITIVE/ STUDDER/ SKIP MAINLY EXPERIENCED WHEN PULLING A SLIGHT INCLINE

DROVE ME CRAZY FOR A WHILE!

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DID NOT COME ON

YOU SAID YOURS DID?

WHAT ARE/ WERE THE "EXACT" CODE NUMBER(S), NOT WHAT THEY INTERPRETED THEM TO MEAN?

YOU SORTA FAILED TO EXPLAIN IN FULL WHAT BAD THINGS IT IS DOING?

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2014 AT 7:19 AM
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
The error code is P0351, Same code I got at AutoZone and O'Reilly. It is also the same code I got last year.

The vehicle drives Ok. No issue. Had the same issue last year and it resulted in plugging my cat converter (the one after the y-pipe and under the vehicle). I replaced the cat converter last Spring. I am concerned that if I continue to drive the vehicle in it current condition, I will damage another cat converter.

What is the root cause of this issue?

Thanks,
Jay
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2014 AT 7:27 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
DUH!

MUSTA MISSED THE "TITLE" OF YOUR POST

SEEMS #1 COIL IS THE CENTER OF ATTENTION WITH THIS CODE

IT DOES NOT NECESSARILY MEAN THE COIL IS BAD, THE CONNECTOR/ CONNECTION/ WIRING MAY BE THE PROBLEM

CHECK THE CONNECTOR TO THE COIL, LOOK FOR DAMAGE WHERE THEY MATE, DISFIGURATION/ MELTING DUE TO HEAT

MAYBE THE METAL IN THE CONNECTOR GETS SHOVED BACK OR SIDEWAYS WHEN IT PLUGS INTO IT'S MATE

(I'M GETTING THIS INFO FROM A PAL WHO OWNS A PRODUCTION ENGINE REBUILD SHOP)

HE ALSO RECOMMENDS THE ELIMINATING THE "AT THE COIL" POSSIBILITY

OBTAIN A NEW OR SALVAGE YARD CONNECTOR (INSURE THE "LOCKS" ARE NOT BROKEN OR SLOPPY) FOR THE COIL/ NEW BOOT AND SPRING DOWN TO THE SPARK PLUG/ INSURE THE PLUG GAP IS CORRECT, USE DIELECTRIC GREASE ON THE CONNECTIONS

AND YES, THE PCM MAY BE BAD AND THE PROBLEM

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2014 AT 8:04 AM
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the suggestion. Will check the connector again.

Any idea why this has a temperature component? Works fine with temperatures above freezing then light comes back when outside temps fall below freezing even if engine is warm?

Thanks,
Jay
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2014 AT 8:29 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
POSSIBLY EXPANSION/ CONTRACTION OF THE PLASTIC/ CONNECTOR/ OR A WIRE

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2014 AT 10:07 AM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
It probably needs a PCM. Only other thing is swap the ground at PCM for coil driver 2 to 1. If code stays as p0351 and not p0352 it needs PCM. If it changes you have a wiring issue. Easy to do PCM is right there
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Wednesday, December 3rd, 2014 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
Thank you for the feedback.

I am not sure how to switch the ground for the coil at the PCM. Can you explain this further?

Another possibility I was thinking was to purchase a used wire harness and swap with the existing one. If this fixes the issue, then this wold confirm it is a wiring issue and the issue is solved. If not, then I will have to purchase a used PCM and ask a qualified repair shop to swap it for me. Does anybody have experience with swapping PCMs? Cost? Hope I can do this without having to go to the dealership to reduce cost.

Thanks,
Jay
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Thursday, December 4th, 2014 AT 5:03 AM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • EXPERT
Get wiring diagram of PCM and take off red cap on inside of PCM connector in harness and release the terminals for coil one and two and swap it and recheck for code. Can't drive like this unless you 1 and 2 coil connectors as well
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Thursday, December 4th, 2014 AT 3:27 PM

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