Engine idle drops and dies after cold cranking?

The description sounds like separated fuel. Ethanol loves to pull moisture out of the air and then that settles into the tank. With the nose tilted down that may be enough to settle the bad mix under the fuel pickup in the tank and you get this response from the engine getting a larger amount of a water/ethanol blend than it can handle. The cold means that the PCM tries to run a richer mixture and that dumps more of the crud into the engine and you get misfires and the engine stalls. I would suggest running it down farther then filling it with non-ethanol fuel. Running more fuel out of it should help remove the moisture.

It can be easily with modern fuels. Especially if you got a bad batch like some folks in Colorado got, theirs was diesel in the gas but water can be much worse.

Let us know. FYI it does have a fuel filter but it is in the fuel tank as part of the pump assembly. As such you normally just change out the complete assembly instead of just the filter, but it sounds more like the fuel itself.

Strange. If turning on the heat means you turned the blower motor up in speed that would increase the load on the engine. Try this, park nose down and turn on the headlights, does it stall then? The description you gave earlier still sounds fuel related though, like it's running out of fuel and stalls. I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what the fuel pressure does when it stalls, as well as what the pressure does under normal conditions. For that you T the pressure gauge in the line that feeds the fuel rail under the hood. Normal fuel pressure with the engine running should be between 55 and 65 PSI. So if you see 40 psi and it drops off when you do the test we need to determine if it's the fuel pump or if it's electrical from the increased load that is causing the pump to slow down.

I would run a fuel pressure check on it, low pressure could cause it to run under lower power and cause it to stumble, No CEL on correct? May also need a throttle body cleaning if it doesn't jump up the idle fast enough.

Yeah, that is a sign of a failing pump. Waiting for the storm myself, already got the low temps.

No inline filter, just the one on the pump assembly in the tank. Not a hard one to access. Move the second row seat forward fully, then lift the carpet and you will find an access panel. Remove it and under it will be the pump, clean off any crud before you proceed. Now disconnect the harness and the quick connect for the fuel line. Then you unscrew the retaining ring and once it's off, the pump lifts out, watch out for the level sender. Now you should get new seals in the kit. The wide one goes in the tank, the pump goes through it and the ring goes on top under the retainer. I like to give them a very light wipe of silicone grease, just so things go together better. If you have spray silicone it works as well. Set the pump in and align it as shown. Align the arrow on the retaining ring with the first thread on the tank and tighten down the ring. The ring gets torqued to 52 ft lb if using a drive tool on it. Now inspect the harness, they can loosen up or corrode and it's much easier to replace the pigtail now then after you put things back together and discover there is a problem. Then attach the fuel line and plug it in and test it, try to rock the vehicle to be sure the level sender works. For the plate, if the original goop is still soft you can re-use it, If it's not a bead of caulk will work, it's just to keep fumes and critters out.

Let us know what you end up with. Good luck.

Hope to hear good news.

Sounds like you got it taken care of. Good job.