Engine shuts off while driving without warning?

Tiny
TECH2020
  • MEMBER
  • 33 POSTS
Hi All!
I`m sad to report a few weeks ago my Ford just suddenly stopped running again (early June, 2020) while driving easily (then it restarted normally), this happening several months after replacing the alternator with a rebuilt Motorcraft unit. The car was not being driven much otherwise I suspect the stop would have happened sooner. My guess is a bad connection somewhere in the electrical system. I plan on keeping the car till next year and for now will drive it locally and be aware of the issue, and it will be replaced in 2021.

Thanks for all the comments!
Tom
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Thursday, June 25th, 2020 AT 10:10 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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We just had this problem on the site with a similar car the person ended up replacing the MAF sensor which fixed the problem. The sensor can short intermittently causing the problem which makes sense it was okay for a while once the alternator was replaced. Here is the sensor location. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Sunday, June 28th, 2020 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
TECH2020
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Hi Ken.

Thanks for the suggestion to replace the MAF. It looks like an easy part replacement so I have ordered an exact replacement part that should arrive in a few days. The issue with the car has been frustrating and if the part fixes the problem it will take a while to know and some apprehensive driving wondering if the car is going to suddenly stop. I will definitely update with what happens.
Thanks again,
Tom
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Sunday, June 28th, 2020 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
TECH2020
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Okay.
I`ve replaced the MAF sensor and I will report back on how the car does regarding sudden stopping.

One question, I noticed that someone left the air intake box top section out of place, and one of the clamps is missing a piece. I placed the air intake box top section back into place over the bottom (holds the air filter) and I`m using the one clamp. Could having the air intake being (partially) unfiltered caused an issue with the MAF sensor? I will look to replace/repair the bad clamp.

Tom
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Monday, June 29th, 2020 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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That will cause the sensor to go bad yes because of too many contaminates. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? That would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2020 AT 11:25 AM
Tiny
TECH2020
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Okay, here is a video of my car and air box. I guess I should always look the car over after a repair. It starts fine and all seems Okay, should I get the air box clamp before driving it any? It still closes fairly well with just the one clamp. Seems I will need to find this part online or in a salvage yard.
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Tuesday, June 30th, 2020 AT 2:49 PM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
Go to your local salvage yard, preferably a pick-n-pull because it's cheaper, and get you an air-box. I've actually had several explorers with a stalls at idle concern be cause by a loose air-box because the air from the fan will blow into the box and passed the sensor causing an incorrect voltage reading and thus overestimation of what is actually going on. But I don't think that is what is causing your original concern, and don't buy another MAF sensor, my opinion but it should be fine. I would retest the charging system on the vehicle with a good charging system tester like a vat-45 or equivalent, so you can get a reading for the diode test pass/fail. Also a very thorough wiggle test of the wire harness near the power-train control module and also around the battery cables, have had issues there as well. Just a few picks from my mental Rolodex for ya, hope it helps!
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Wednesday, July 1st, 2020 AT 8:32 AM
Tiny
TECH2020
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9/16/2020 - It has been a good while since I replaced the MAF in my 2005 Ford Explorer, and as it turned out it has been driven much more than expected this summer. But I am very pleased to report that the vehicle has not shut itself off once during this time. I did secure the air box together with wire ties until I can find one for the missing clip. I may never know for 100% the MAF was causing the engine-shut-off problem but it sure seems that way now.

Thanks for all the helpful input!
Tom
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Wednesday, September 16th, 2020 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
MISAR711
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
This vehicle runs well and has plenty of power, but occasionally the engine will just die. It can happen at 10 mph or 60 mph. It will crank back up and run. Appears to be an intermittent problem. Pulled two codes from the computer:
P1633 KAM (Keep Alive Memory) Voltage Too Low
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Low Input

I don't know that these codes have anything to do with the problem we're having with the vehicle. I've checked some of the simple stuff like making sure there is plenty of fuel in the tank, and I checked the battery voltage (a good 12.6 volts).

What do you think?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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It sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor problem. When these sensors go out the may or may not trigger a code.

Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here are the symptoms:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Below is what it will be like on your car.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MISAR711
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Ken, thank you for your answer. It was informative and incredibly detailed. Your answer jogged my memory of a 1997 Ford Explorer I owned. It would put me down occasionally, and I found quite by accident that by twisting the wiring going to the crank position sensor, I could start the car and get it going again. Based on your answer and on my past experience (this vehicle didn't struggle to run nor did it run poorly before stalling; it just stopped dead in it's tracks), I took a chance and replaced the crank position sensor (just under $20 at O'Reilly Auto Parts). I am still test driving it and haven't had a problem yet. Time will tell.
Underneath all the fancy electronics, engines still need a spark, adequate fuel delivery, decent compression, and correct timing to run. A spark tester confirmed that the ignition was at least firing. No Schrader valve on the fuel rail, so I skipped this test, and I decided that the compression and engine timing were fine (the car runs so well). I'm basically taking a shot in the dark since I don't have complete diagnostics to back up my repair actions. I also cleaned up some of the grounds including the body to frame ground straps.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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Detecting a crankshaft angle sensor failure most of the time you will need an oscilloscope which can read the wave form.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDOWNER30
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  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 FORD EXPLORER
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
Recently my Explorer stalled on the highway while we were driving. It seemed as if the security light lit up and then the dash board lit up followed by the engine cutting off. We had to coast to a stop and then started the truck up again right away. The following day, the same thing happened but this time the Explorer would not start again. We had it towed to our Ford dealership where they hooked it up to a computer but it showed their were no issues. We then took it to another mechanic and they could not diagnose using the computer either. There is something wrong but the dealership nor another mechanic could not diagnose. Do you have any ideas on what this problem could be? Is this a common issue you may have heard of?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
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Hi thanx for the the donation, you have the classic symptoms of a bad crank position sensor, not only that, but these usually dont show up on a computer scan, nor does it show a check engine light. Have it checked out, most likely this is the problem, Also if you can mimic the problem again, of course, in your yard or somewhere off of the street. It would good if you could check for fuel and spark. That is the first thing a mechanic is supposed to check in this situation. But just from what your telling me, I suspect the crank position sensor
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
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https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FORDOWNER30
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I wanted to add that we can drive the car from anywhere between 1/2 - 1 hour before the car stalls. Its happened about 3 times now. Do you still believe its the crankshaft or could it be something else?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
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Yes I do suspect the crank sensor, although it could be the fuel pump relay. Something electrical is getting hot and then causing an open circuit. That is usually the crank sensor, but it can be a relay too. This is why we need to test fuel pressure and ignition spark to know which direction to go. But I still would check the crank sensor, unless you can do the testing first.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DKBSH1
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  • 2005 FORD EXPLORER
  • 120,000 MILES
My explorer v-8 will start but does not stay running. There is no Schrader valve anywhere to test pressure. Not sure what to do
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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If there is no port on the engine, you need to test pressure at the fuel filter.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM (Merged)

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