Are you referring to a buzzing sound, similar to that of a machine gun? If so, it could simply be due to a failed battery. If you still have the original battery in the van, it has lasted two years longer than expected. A jump-start will likely get the engine started, but you'll have the same problem next time you need to start it.
Here's links to numerous articles that might help:
At the mileage you listed, an intermittent problem with the alternator is also a possibility. Here's a link to a related article:
My strong recommendation is to visit a battery store for a quick diagnosis. You can buy automotive batteries at places like Walmart, and farm and home stores, but that leaves you on your own, especially if the battery isn't causing the problem. The people at the battery stores will start with a battery test. That will show whether the battery is bad, or if it's still good, but fully discharged. If it's just discharged, that can be caused by lights or
accessories left turned on, or it can be caused by a failed alternator. Its job is to recharge the battery after starting the engine, then to keep it charged while you're driving. If you start with a good, fully-charged battery, then the alternator fails, you'll only be able to drive about one hour, and much less if you turn on the lights, heater fan, radio, and anything else that drains the battery.
If testing shows the alternator to be defective, the people at the battery stores won't try to sell you a new battery unless it too is needed. Selling you a new battery won't solve the problem if the alternator isn't working, and they know that. They don't want you to have the same problem. If a new battery is all that's needed, the people at almost every battery store will install it for you for free.
When it comes to the jump-start, be very careful to follow the instructions in regards to the cable clamp placement. One cable connects to the positive battery post on both vehicles. The second cable connects to the negative posts on both vehicles. (Negative to negative, and positive to positive). If you accidentally switch them on one vehicle, a lot of electrical damage can occur. Most of the time that is just multiple blown fuses, but in rare occasions it can involve damaged computers.
You will also usually see in the instructions to connect the positive cable to both vehicles, then one end of the negative jumper cable to one negative battery post, and finally, the other end of the negative jumper cable to a paint-free place on the engine. That is the same as connecting it to the battery's negative post, however, regardless of where the last of the four connections is made, there are going to be some small sparks. Batteries give off explosive hydrogen gas. The idea of making the final connection on the engine is so those sparks will not be near the battery. Likewise, when the jumper cables are removed, disconnect the cable from the engine first. That also creates small sparks, but over there they'll be harmless. At that point the other three clamps can be disconnected in any order.
Battery explosions are very rare, but that's because we follow those safety guidelines.
Be aware too that at your mileage, it is fairly common to have worn brushes inside the alternator which causes intermittent failure-to-charge problems. When that occurs, the warning light or message on the dash will turn on, and the problem commonly lasts from a few seconds to a few minutes, then clears up. Over the next few months the problem will get progressively worse and act up more frequently and for longer periods of time. That failure gives you a lot of warning before the defect becomes permanent. What you must be aware of though is any testing for that defect has to be done while the problem is occurring, meaning the warning light is on. If the problem clears up while the system is being tested, everything is going to falsely appear to be okay.
Thursday, December 17th, 2020 AT 12:04 PM