I need to know where the door lock receiver is under dash

I am attaching the location below on the location. However, I am also attaching the testing of this system if you would like to confirm this is the issue however it sounds like you have a pretty good idea that this is the issue.

The manual does not specifically state that you have to program it and they do not give a process for the replacement procedure, so I cannot confirm this for you. I have not replaced one of these parts before so I am not sure. However, in most cases the receiver does have to be programmed so that it recognizes the key that is inserted as being correct.

I am attaching also, what I am looking at to say this which is the registration process for this entire keyless system and it does not list this module.

Let me know what questions you have. Thanks

I am not sure I understand what the issue is. You were looking for the door lock receiver module so I am not sure what the issue is.

Does you door ajar light stay on all the time? If so, unplugging this module won't cause it to go out but I think I understand your thinking if that is what is happening. If you are thinking that if the issue is in the module that the light would go out if you unplug it, then this is not accurate.

The door ajar light comes on when there is an open door. It knows this because the switch is an open circuit or the module thinks there is an open circuit. So unless the module tells the cluster that all doors are closed, it just defaults on.

Let me know what the specific issue is and we can try to figure out what the testing is that we will need to do. Thanks

Okay. With that information this is possibly a body controller because the door switches are a direct input to the body computer. Then the body computer tell the cluster to turn the light on.

So what we need to do is go to the body computer and test the inputs from the sensors to see if they are getting voltage. These are simple open closed switches. So if there is voltage on the circuit at the body computer then the switch is closed telling the BCM that the door is open. This is not a typical voltage test because the switch closes to provide ground so if you test this by putting one lead on the wire and the other on the ground then you will get voltage and think the switch is the issue. So you need to use a test light or a voltmeter and put one lead on battery positive and the other on the wire because you want to see if the switch is providing ground when the door is closed.

Here is a guide that will help:

https://youtu.be/Hlna_kUt7As

This is not the easiest testing so let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Interesting that you found that as well. I looked it up and it was a fuse block. Did they give you a reason for this being the cause? These almost never fail as they just house the fuses and pass the voltage through the fuses and from one wire to the other.

So the way to test this would be to test the voltage on the circuit below by putting your meter or test light on battery positive and then the other end on the terminal at the BCM. There should be voltage there only when the door is open as that is when the circuit is grounded.

The junction blocks are circled and if when the door is open there is no voltage then you have an open circuit somewhere. It could be one of these junction blocks but we need to test voltage going in and out and I bet they did not test it correctly as these are just pass through parts and are not common to fail. Even if they are, I would just bypass it with new wiring and not replace the entire component as it is not needed.

Let me know if you have questions on this.

Sounds great. Thanks for the update. Let us know if you or he has questions. Thanks

I am not sure I know which fuse panel you are talking about. I was talking about the two junction boxes or panels that are circled. They are like inline connectors and don't have fuses. If it were me, I would just take a wire and cut this wire at both ends and run a new wire from the BCM to the door switch. Even if you just run it straight to it just to test it. If the light goes out then you can route the wire properly. Does that make sense?

If your short is somewhere on the yellow highlighted line in the last attachment then you would be eliminating it because you are cutting that wire at both ends and then running a new one. Maybe we are talking about two different things. Sorry.