The water pump went out in my 1997 dohc dodge neon sport and it sat for 4-5 months. We replaced the water pump and the car wouldn't start. We checked the timing and it's right. It gave codes for cam and crankshaft sensors so we replaced those. Gave ignition coil code so that was replaced. We also replaced spark plugs and wires. Compression is fine but the car still won't start. It tries to turn over but won't even start for 1 second. Now it's giving auto shutdown relay code but the relay tests fine. We don't know where to go from here. It only has 77,000 miles and was running great before the water pump went out while I was driving it. It keeps giving one code after another. We fix one thing and another thing goes out. I love my car but I am thinking of selling it to relieve the frustration! This is the 3rd Neon I've owned and I've never had this problem before. It has a half a tank of gas so I know it's not that. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Now it's giving auto shutdown relay code but the relay tests fine.
How did you test it-if the ASD relay is defective it will not power the coil and the fuel pump. You'll not have spark and fuel.
Also the crankshaft position sensor has to give the PCM the signal if not its nada!
April, 14, 2007 AT 7:46 PM
I tested it with my DVOM according to the manufacturers service manual.
The crankshaft sensor tested bad and was replaced as well as the camshaft sensor because it was weak. I have ckecked the timing three times by the crankshaft and camshaft sproket marks as well as the the camshaftlobes and TDC by degrees. Fuel pressure is within specs and compression is as well.
The codes are out of the ECM not ODBII as the ODBII does not give any codes.
I hope this is a much better explination as my wife posted the first request while she was frustrated.
April, 14, 2007 AT 8:24 PM
96-Up has the OBD2 as mandate-try cranking her over and listen to the injectors-are they buzzing or clicking-if not check power to it/no power check the PCM quad driver.
Also look for a massive vacuum leak-the EGR fully closed engine not running.
Test out the coolant temperature sensor-all these headache over water pump changed-backtrack your workmanship before you remove the w/pump-could be a disconnected wire.
April, 14, 2007 AT 9:05 PM
I know 96 and up have the mandate but they don't have to give all manufacture specific codes. I have a scanner. I checked the injectors by ear and with a DVOM and pressure test its good.
I have no intention of removing the water pump as I know it is not the problem.
The vacum leak was my next thing I just don't have a vaccum tester. I wish I did but I have to find one.
I'll check the coolant sensor next as I have checked all the wires 5 or 6 times already.
April, 15, 2007 AT 12:22 AM
You miss interpret me on the water pump- Look for spark again verify the color should be bright snapping blue spark-
How did you check the timing-visual or by using a timing lite following special procedures.
It tries to turn over but won't even start for 1 second. What is exactly do you meant by this. Is it cranking over but refuses to start or won't crank over at all.
An engine that has spark and fuel that w/n start with no serious vacuum leaks and cranks normally should start. The problem is compression. If it is an overhead cam engine with a rubber timing belt, a broken timing belt would be the most likely cause especially if the engine has a lot of miles on it. Most OEMs recommend replacing the OHC timing belt every 60,000 miles for preventative maintenance, but many belts are never changed. Eventually they break, and when they do the engine stops dead in its tracks. And in engines that lack sufficient valve-to-piston clearance as many import engines and some domestic engines do, it also causes extensive damage (bent valves and valvetrain components & sometimes cracked pistons).