Please give me some input on to what might be the cause for this problem. My car stalls out after around 15mins or so of driving and will not start [i: d21b8c5785]unless[/i: d21b8c5785] I take the key out of the ignition and re-isert it again to crank ignition. After I start it up again, it'll stall out almost immediately while driving less than a quarter mile down the road. I have to repeat the procedure over and over again until I eventually make it back home. The mechanic at the dealer told me it was my computer so I went and got a new PCM and changed it out. It didn't solve the problem. That was a $250 part! Not only that, it was $240 in diagnosis labor charge! Now, $490 later, I'm back to square one! I really don't have the money for this trial and error baloney. If thats all I got, then why should I pay someone to do what I can do already? I'm a good a guesser as any and cheaper too! If anyone can shoot me in the right direction or have experienced this type of problem, please give me some input. Thanks a bunch for any replies on this thread.
I am a mechanic of 35 years and my wife's 95 Cirrus is doing the same thing. I called the dealer and they don't know jack. I replaced the distributer at 70K [cost me $1000.00] as well as the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. I know this problem must be electronic overheating, but which component? If you check out chrysler problems online, you come across this problem on many of their models. You would think by now Chrysler would have solved this problem. One guy spent $4700 on letting the dealer try and fix it, but he's still got the problem ! I'm going to try and place the pcm in a cooler spot [it's just behind the right headlight]. The car only has 74,000 Kilometers [that's only about 40, 00 miles]. I used to hate Fords because of the way they complicate their emission controls and have a hard time passing emission tests, but now I'm beginning to hate Chryslers too !
January, 20, 2006 AT 1:00 PM
I know exatcly what you mean about those dealers. I work at one as a salesman and you think I get a good deal? HELL NO! I get raped just like the rest of the people that come in. Anyways, I tried something and it seems to be working out for me and I'll tell you since we have almost the same identical engine in our cars. I wrapped the wires that lead to the cam sensor and coil, in heat insulating material so that it won't for whatever reasons give false signals to the sensors and it hasn't stalled out yet since then. BUT! And I do say BUT! I'm not comfortable enough to try and test it by driving out of town long enough for the engine to truly run hot or even in hot weather. Let me know how it works for you if u decide to try it. Also you might want to replace the cam sensor all together if you haven't ever replaced it, it has been known to fail a lot as well as the O2 sensors.
January, 21, 2006 AT 11:32 AM
Car finally died jan 19 and left my wife stranded. Met her with our 91 daytona and waited for tow truck. After sitting in drivway for 4 hours, it started up. Put it in garage and on monday, jan23 a garage I trust will put it on the scope. I will let you know what they find. Interesting about the cam sensor. I know some electrical component is overheating, may be more than one. Keep in touch and thanks.
October, 24, 2008 AT 6:28 PM
I have the same deal, stalling after 15 minutes. It always starts a while later, but being in traffic and having it stall sucks! I have replaced all sorts of parts, coil, plugs, wires, fuel pump, ignition switch, etc. The recent one was the coolant temperature sensor. The next one will be the cam trigger, since the crank trigger has already been replaced. I have codes, 11, 12, 54, 37 and whatever, but I don't care. I just want it to run. Supposidly, the cam trigger will fix it, but thanks for the forum dudes.
November, 5, 2008 AT 9:37 AM
I had a 99 stratus and that problem was the fuel pick-up screen in the tank would pick up debris, then after it sat and the pump pressure would release. Which would let the debris fall back down and run. Clean your tank and screen
November, 5, 2008 AT 1:04 PM
The problem ended up being the crank trigger. After the ECm was replaced the same symtoms happened, but the crank trigger soved it. The thing is that it was a new trigger only a 1.5 years old. 15m and stalling, like clockwork. $230 at the dealership yeah!