1993 Dodge Dakota starts sometime and not sometimes

Tiny
EWGIVENS
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
I have changed the crank sensor, and the pickup coil under the distributer cap. Check engine light has not come on. The starter is spinning like normal. I have also changed the fuel filter.
The truck will start and run good sometimes like today but it died and took about 10 minutes to start, I put starting fluid in the carburator and it still would not start, acts like no fire. Any help would be appreciated
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Saturday, October 9th, 2010 AT 12:02 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Have you checked to confirm there is no spark? Also, have you checked fuel pump pressure when it won't start?
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Saturday, October 9th, 2010 AT 12:36 PM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
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I have not checked for fuel pressure or spark, waiting for it to happen again to check for spark.
What would cause drop in fuel pressure
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Saturday, October 9th, 2010 AT 1:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Based on your description, it does sound like a spark issue. However, a weak fuel pump can cause the same symptoms. But, the fact that it doesn't start with starter fluid leads me to believe it is a spark issue usually caused by a bad crank sensor.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, October 9th, 2010 AT 10:58 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
After thought. Have you checked the MAP sensor?
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Saturday, October 9th, 2010 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
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I have not checked the MAP sensor. I tow this truck behind my motorhome, I had the crank sensor changed before I left for vacation. It did the same thing in New Hampshire. The Dodge dealer said it was a crank sensor problem so I had it changed again, now it's doing the same thing
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Sunday, October 10th, 2010 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Here is what I need you to do. You are going to check codes and tell me what they are. All trouble codes on your truck will be two digits, for example 12, 15, 45.

Get in the truck and cycle the key from off to on 3 times. The third time, let it in the run position (do not start the engine). Wait a few seconds and the check engine light will begin to flash. Count the flashes. If will blink, have a slight pause, then start again. That will give you the two digit code. Between codes, if there is more than one, there is a longer pause. When you get to code 55, it is done. NOTE: If you only get a 55, that means there are no codes in the computer.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Sunday, October 10th, 2010 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
  • MEMBER
I did the code check, after key clicks I got a 3 and then 55, don't know why only 1 number before the 55.
Also today although the truck is running right now I did a fuel pressure check. I had 31 lbs pressure I removed the vaccum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and it jumped to 41 lbs.
I have my spark tester and the pressure guage in the truck so I can check the next time it fails to run
The check engine light has never come on
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Wednesday, October 13th, 2010 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Are you sure it wasn't a 13? That would most likely deal with the map sensor and could cause what you are experiencing.
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Wednesday, October 13th, 2010 AT 7:11 PM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
  • MEMBER
I will check again in the morning. Can you tell me where the map sensor is located and how can I test it
Thanks for all your time
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Wednesday, October 13th, 2010 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
It is on the front of the throttle body. If I remember, it is held on by 2 screws (torx T-25). To check it, you need a scanner. If the MAP sensor output voltage does not change by more than 0.04V when reving the engine, it is bad.
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Wednesday, October 13th, 2010 AT 7:46 PM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
  • MEMBER
I read this on Carquest Parts site "The power to the ASD and fuel pump relays are supplied by the 30 amp maxi fuse "D", which is located in the engine compartment power distribution center. Power to the ECM is then routed through a splice which is located in the main computer harness which is on the driver's side inner fender well. Checking the integrity of this splice first could be a time saver. The plastic which covers this splice has a tendency to collect moisture which leads to corrosion cutting power to the ECM.
Have you heard of this, and do you think it would be hard to fix the splice
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Wednesday, October 13th, 2010 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Yes, I have heard of it. If I recall, it is a white wire with a red tracer that is the issue. However, the problem (caused by corrosion) usually shuts spark down and the engine won't start at all. I guess it wouldn't be a waste of time to check it.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2010 AT 6:32 AM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
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Today I checked the wires and found 2 different splices. 1 was a red wire which was in good shape, the other was blue wire with a yellow stripe which was corroded. I cut out the bad and spliced in a new piece. I traced the wire to the computer.
Also the code I was receiving was 1-2
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Thursday, October 14th, 2010 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Fault code 12 The logic module is basically telling you that it has lost power and will not remember any previously stored codes or engine sensor table data. The code will be removed after 15 ignition on/off cycles and the logic module will use default values for all look-up tables as a starting point until it "learns" the attributes of the engine.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2010 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
  • MEMBER
Hopefully fixing the corroded wire solved my problem, I will keep a pressure guage and spark tester in the truck just in case.
I really appreciate all your help.
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Thursday, October 14th, 2010 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I hope it helps. Let me know if things change.

Joe
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Friday, October 15th, 2010 AT 8:14 AM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
  • MEMBER
I'm back. My problem is the same, today 1993 Dakota would not start just like before. I did a code check (MIL has not come on) I got a code 35. I did a pressure check at the fuel rail and got 35 lbs. I checked for spark---NO SPARK at the plugs. I checked the splice that I had repaired earlier and it looks good. Please help. Crank sensor has been changed twice, pickup coil changed also.
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Wednesday, April 20th, 2011 AT 4:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If the wires are good and the crank sensor is good, on the driver's side inner fender (under the hood) located beside the windshield washer jug are two ground wires. They simply screw into the inner fender. Check their condition. Make sure they are in good shape, not damaged and are getting a good ground. Many times they lose their ground as a result of rust.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Wednesday, April 20th, 2011 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
EWGIVENS
  • MEMBER
Got up this morning truck started and ran fine--I checked the grounds and found them to be in good shape tight and no rust. I just don't understand it. Since I respliced the wires in October the truck has never failed until yesterday. I realize it is old but it only has 76000 miles on it. It starts as soon as you turn the key it starts immediately. I am baffled. I do appreciate you help
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Thursday, April 21st, 2011 AT 8:16 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Is it still running good? As far as the age of the truck, I just sold mine (93) it had 225K on it and still ran perfect, but the cab mounts went bad. For a 4x4 they were no longer available and I couldn't find them anywhere. If they weren't bad, I would have driven it another 200K. I loved it. Stupid me, I got a newer one, a 98. It isn't near the truck as my old one. I think I'm going to look for another one (older body style).
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Friday, April 22nd, 2011 AT 4:25 AM

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