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Codes P0335, P0345, P0340, C1130, crank no start?

Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 2011 INFINITI QX56
  • 5.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Had a vehicle towed in with a crank but no start. Owners replaced the fuel pump but did not solve the issue. The vehicle cranked slowly so I replaced the starter, and the cranking improved greatly but the vehicle does not start. The vehicle previously sat for 6 months and ran fine before, and now suddenly will not start. When it arrived to me it came with a brand-new battery and new terminals. The owner also stated they replaced the camshaft position sensor(s), and an oxygen sensor.

I have to continuously charge the battery, though brand new, after about 3 attempts to start the battery will lose the ability to start the car at around 11.98 volts. Safely assume that I charge the battery up to 12.6 volts each time. I get 12v in the alternator circuit when testing at the fuse box. I tested all fuses for continuity and found no open fuses. I verified I have fuel at the rail by loosening the pressure sensor with the key in the ON position, and fuel comes steadily. I verified with a spark tester that the coils are producing spark as the engine turns over.

I'm starting to consider trying a different ECM at this point. The only lead I have going for me is that my scan tool displays the fuel level at 100%, but the car reads correctly at 1/4 tank. For sure the tank is only 1/4 full because it was almost ran out of gas in the beginning, apparently. There are no codes in the ECM however I have communication with it. I did a simple parasitic draw test on the ground side terminal and the initial draw goes from 6mA to 1.5mA, just after the leads are connected.

Any ideas? I'm almost stumped.
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Saturday, July 22nd, 2023 AT 5:47 PM

18 Replies

Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 581 POSTS
A new bit of information to add: the owners also replaced the crank sensor because of a p0335. This does not show up in the memory but that could also be from sitting for months. So, I thought to try tracing the problem beginning there, I have a diagram showing the 3 crank sensor wires going to pin #s 76, 86, and 98. However I do not have a pinout of the ECM side. Please let me know your thoughts and any advice.
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Sunday, July 23rd, 2023 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,057 POSTS
Can I ask if the engine will run on starting fluid? Here is a guide to go over to help us get started on fixing the problem:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-not-running-advanced

Here are the PCM wiring diagrams and a guide to help test the connections:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the images (below). Please let us know how it goes.
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Monday, July 24th, 2023 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 581 POSTS
Hi, the car will not run on starting fluid. It definitely seems like a bad ground issue, because the battery will barely engage the starter at 12v. So, something is taking the most of the power. I probed the connector at the CKP sensor and got 5v, but OL reading at terminals 2 and 3. I got the same reading from the ECM connector side but maybe I was testing them incorrectly, so I'll try again tomorrow. Unfortunately, the distance between the CKP and ECM is too long for my meter. But I used the body as a ground to test resistance to the wires.

Another note: I saw no grounds in the wiring diagram for the CKP. Does this mean the 3 wires go straight to the ECM? Or does where each colored wire cross in the diagram indicate a connection path?

Once more: I tested the Camshaft position sensor, on top of the engine, and terminal 1 - 2 gave infinite resistance. Terminals 2 - 3 gave a resistance reading. Would this indicate a bad camshaft sensor? Sometimes the guides indicated the reading as "except 0 or infinite".
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Monday, July 24th, 2023 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 581 POSTS
I retested what I mentioned above and got different but correct results. No opens in that circuit. With nothing to lose, I basically poured starting fluid into the engine, and I finally started getting sputters out of it, but it would not run. Should I continue to pursue a fuel issue? The owners did replace the fuel pump, and I can hear it running before attempting to start the vehicle.
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Tuesday, July 25th, 2023 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,057 POSTS
Yes, I would check the fuel pressure here are the specs and a guide to help walk you through the test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Fuel Pressure (At Idling) .................... Approximately 450 kPa (4.5 bar, 4.6 kg/cm2, 65 psi)

Use can rent a fuel pressure gauge from the auto parts store for cheap. Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Tuesday, July 25th, 2023 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 581 POSTS
I haven't made it to the store for a fuel pressure gauge, but I did go ahead and check electrical connections at the pump and pump module. I am receiving battery voltage at the pump connector and the module. But I noticed at the module the resistance between the wires/pins on the module for the green/yellow and green/red is 35K ohms. Don't you think this is a bit excessive? I cannot hear the pump humming when I put the key in the on position. Is there a testing procedure for the module?
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Wednesday, July 26th, 2023 AT 5:52 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,057 POSTS
Testing the module will be involved, do you have 12 volts to the pump? If so, the pump is bad.
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Thursday, July 27th, 2023 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
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Well, I guess I got my answer, there was a leak in the high-pressure fuel pump, and it caught fire today. No reason this should catch fire other than the mechanical pieces having lack of lubrication causing it to get so hot. Everything is fine and so far, nothing was destroyed, but now the next step would be to replace this part.
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Thursday, July 27th, 2023 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, it sounds like you found the problem.
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Friday, July 28th, 2023 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 581 POSTS
They agreed to repair it. You think the high pressure pump mechanically failing would prevent this vehicle from starting?
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Friday, July 28th, 2023 AT 1:39 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Yep, it will. Let me know what happens please.
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Saturday, July 29th, 2023 AT 1:08 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
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I replaced it and the car tried to start but sounded like it was starting with 3 cylinders. I looked into it, and it turns out the connectors for the camshaft sensor bank 1 and the sensor attached to the intake manifold were melted. I suppose this caused the car to retard the timing and sound this way, at least I'm hoping. When I replace the connectors, I should have 5v reference right? What are the specs for these two connectors? Also, the new starter solenoid wire casing was a powder-y white.
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Tuesday, August 1st, 2023 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
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Hey guys. I replaced the connectors and it tried to start like normal. But now I can get the car to start but only with starting fluid. I feel like progress is made because all it takes is a little starting fluid and then the car will run just fine. Here's some quirks I'm thinking are related to the issue:

Now with the car running I get the pesky p0335 every time, but I can monitor engine RPM.
The fuel level is accurate on the dash at 1/4 tank but the scan tool is reading 100%.
I can hear the fuel pump running at KOEO and KOER
Also, the intake valves look horrible. I don't think these people are using premium fuel as the manufacturer requires. I wonder if it won't start because of low octane fuel.
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Thursday, August 3rd, 2023 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
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Hi, I'm trying to run down the diagnostic procedure of P0335. I replaced the connector going to the CKP because it was melted. But nothing changed. I'm at the point where it says to test the battery current sensor, and there is a point where it says to attach a jumper cable from the battery terminal to the body ground. I do this, and confirm I get a connection, but the vehicle will not turn on for me to back probe the ECM connector for voltage. Could this show that the current sensor is dead? It charges fine, but apparently this shares the same ground wire as the CKP sensor harness.
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Sunday, August 6th, 2023 AT 3:35 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 581 POSTS
  • 2011 INFINITI QX56
  • 5.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 195,000 MILES
The vehicle was towed in with a crank with no start condition. High pressure fuel pump and low-pressure fuel pump were replaced, as well as the MAF and the electrical connectors for the camshaft sensors and crank sensor. The crank sensor has been replaced with an OE part. The car will start with a little starting fluid but sometimes you just need to have your foot just right on the gas pedal and it will finally start. When using the scan tool, the codes P0335, P0345, P0340 show up as well as C1130 from the ABS module saying no engine signal 1.

When I clear the codes as the car is running it will stop the car. When the code returns usually it is only P0335 and it will show me the freeze frame data showing that the engine RPM is 0. However, if I can get the car running, I can see an RPM signal. I have a feeling that using the starting fluid allows the car to spin just fast enough to pick up a signal and allow it to start, because otherwise the car runs and moves fine. I did a little research about the IPDM having potential issues because of the internal relays or the ECM being toast. The only thing that happened to this car is that it sat without being driven for 6 months.
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Thursday, August 10th, 2023 AT 11:36 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Sorry for the delay. Oh, yes, the IPDM has problems in these cars, but they are easy to replace because they self-learn. Here is the location and how to change the part out:

IPDM E/R

IPDM E/R has steering lock relay, starter relay and starter control relay inside. Steering lock relay is used for the steering lock/unlock function. Starter relay and starter control relay are used for the engine starting function. IPDM E/R controls these relays while communicating with BCM.

Have you performed a CAN scan? You can get a CAN scanner (Controller Area Network) which will work on most cars from Amazon.

here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Check out the images (below). Please let us know how it goes.
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Thursday, August 10th, 2023 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
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Hey, I tried an IPDM and it didn't change anything. It looks like to me the ECU has an internal issue. I say this because the diagnostic procedure for P0335 says to check the circuit voltage for other sensors that share the same ground terminal (150 on the E80 connector), like the refrigerant pressure sensor, evap pressure sensor, cam sensor, battery current sensor, etc. And I am getting around 100mV for all of them when the specified voltage is much higher than this. I am back probing the connector with a fully charged battery and I cannot seem to wrap my head around it. I did see in the ABS module a stored C1130 code that immediately comes back every time I erase it. What do you think?
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Friday, August 18th, 2023 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,057 POSTS
If you have replaced the sensor and checked the wiring there is only the PCM left, it sounds like you are on the right track.
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Saturday, August 19th, 2023 AT 9:33 AM

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