Air conditioning not working

Tiny
MARIOC68
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 220,000 MILES
The operation of the components of the air conditioning system (compressor, condenser fan) must work permanently and constantly all the time, while the air conditioning is activated or turned on ("on" position of the A/C button). Or should the system automatically turn off when it has reached a certain proper temperature inside the vehicle, such as a refrigerator or domestic refrigerator?
Thursday, December 28th, 2017 AT 10:48 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,760 POSTS
The compressor cycles on and off to regulate the pressure in the low side of the system. There are some newer variable-displacement compressor designs that do run continuously so the passengers do not feel the minor thump each time it engages. Those regulate low-side pressure by pumping a higher volume of vapor when that pressure is high. When the pressure rises, the "wobble plate" tilts more so the pistons it is driving take longer strokes. That increases volume, and that draws the pressure back down. Cycling off momentarily and reducing displacement are done to improve fuel mileage too as well as regulate low-side pressure.

Most commonly the AC condenser fan will cycle on and off with the compressor. With systems that use a variable-displacement compressor, since the goal is to reduce noise and vibrations, the fan will usually cycle off when it is not needed.

The heater fan still run continuously at the speed you selected.

Automotive AC systems work the same way as do refrigerators and freezers, but they have a much different goal. Refrigerators just have a series of tubes that have cold refrigerant moving through them to make everything near it cold. No outside air needs to be drawn in. For automotive applications, it is the really huge volume of air that has to be cooled before it is blown out of the vents. Fresh air is constantly being drawn in, and it has to be cooled too. If you tried to cool all the incoming air with a refrigerator's system, there would not be enough cooling capacity to keep a can of soda cold. The system would not be able to extract enough heat out of the incoming air.

Cycling-clutch systems typically turn the compressor off for as much as five to fifteen seconds, then on until the low side reaches around forty pounds. That can take from a few seconds to a few minutes, depending on the "heat load". With a high heat load, meaning very high outside temperatures and/or when the fan is on the higher speeds, it takes longer for the refrigerant to become cool and for the pressure to go down. That means the compressor has to run longer.

When a significant percentage of the refrigerant has leaked out of the system, it does not take much to pull the low-side pressure down, so the compressor cycles off too quickly, then it does not take much heat, (air volume), to warm the refrigerant back up and raise the pressure, then the compressor cycles back on. The classic symptom of low charge is the compressor cycles rapidly, often turning on and off faster than once per second. As more and more refrigerant leaks out, the point will be reached when the compressor never turns on. That occurs when system pressure drops below roughly forty pounds. That is done so if all the refrigerant had leaked out, the low side cannot be pumped into a vacuum. That could allow air to be pulled in through the leak, along with the very harmful humidity in it.
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Thursday, December 28th, 2017 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
MARIOC68
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  • 120 POSTS
In my case, the compressor and the condenser fan of my car do not stop working, what will be the cause? Indicate that the pressure and charge of refrigerant gas are correct and there is a perfect cooling inside the car. I left it running for half an hour and it did not stop.
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Thursday, December 28th, 2017 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,760 POSTS
Your car may use a variable-displacement compressor. It will still be turned off if the low-side pressure drops too low. If the pressures are fine, the system is likely working normally.
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Thursday, December 28th, 2017 AT 1:20 PM
Tiny
MARIOC68
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My compressor DENSO TV12C.
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Thursday, December 28th, 2017 AT 2:38 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 43,262 POSTS
Yep this operation sounds normal to me. Does the system shut down if you switch it off?
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Sunday, December 31st, 2017 AT 1:39 PM
Tiny
MARIOC68
  • MEMBER
  • 120 POSTS
Yes, turn off. I told him to check all the wiring that corresponds to the air conditioning system and I found that a ground wire was somewhat loose. PROBLEM SOLVED.
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Sunday, December 31st, 2017 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, January 2nd, 2018 AT 10:28 AM
Tiny
MARIOC68
  • MEMBER
  • 120 POSTS
After checking the electrical diagram of my car, I see that it lacks the amplifier A / C, the connector is only and loose. Apparently they made a direct installation by ignoring this slide.
In addition, instead of the thermistor, they placed a refrigerator thermostat. Is it imperative to install the amplifier? As well as the thermistor?
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Friday, February 2nd, 2018 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes because it controls the temperature of the system if not it will ice up and stop working.
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Saturday, February 3rd, 2018 AT 10:13 AM
Tiny
MARIOC68
  • MEMBER
  • 120 POSTS
Hi. I have noticed two situations when the air conditioning compressor is activated. 1. Lower the engine rpm to idle. 2. The vacuum goes down from 20 to 16 (measured with a vacuum meter). Are these situations normal or is something wrong?
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Thursday, November 22nd, 2018 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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It sounds like the throttle bore could be dirty causing the issue. Here is a guide to help walk you through the service:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Please let us know what happens.
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Friday, November 23rd, 2018 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
MARIOC68
  • MEMBER
  • 120 POSTS
I cleaned the acceleration body and the IAC valve, but I did have the problem. I note that when the compressor clutch is turned off, the rpm goes up to 960. When the A/C is off, the idle is at 700 rpm. I turn on the A/C, the rpm goes down slightly to 650 and recovers up to 700 or 710, but decouples the clutch from the compressor and goes up to 900 or 950 rpm.
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Sunday, November 25th, 2018 AT 3:20 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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It sounds like the IAC is not working right. I would replace it.
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Monday, November 26th, 2018 AT 10:00 AM
Tiny
MARIOC68
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Is this condition normal when the a / c is activated? The low vacuum falls from 18 to 15 inches. As seen in the video.
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Wednesday, January 23rd, 2019 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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T looks like the system could be overfilled dragging the engine down causing the vacuum to fall. It will go down a little when the AC is on which is normal. Here is a guide to help you check the pressures.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
MARIOC68
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I have verified vacuum leaks in the entire vacuum circuit, I found nothing, everything is tight. Remove the hose that connects the air filter holder and the acceleration body, I could see a hole before the throttle butterfly. I tried placing the finger obstructing this hole and the following happens: Without air conditioning you feel a minimum suction that almost does not affect the reading of vacuum pressure in the meter. With the air conditioner turned on, the suction is greater through the hole, which results in the vacuum pressure drop in the meter. I checked and saw that this hole connects with the IAC valve, apparently this opens more letting more air pass to the collector.
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Thursday, January 24th, 2019 AT 3:03 PM

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