Engine will not start?

Tiny
ERICK91
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,200 MILES
We was driving the van fine, pulled up and shut the van off in front of a store, when we came back out it would not start. Could here the fuel pump running and had spark at the plugs. So I took the fuel line off to see if it had pressure, and had my wife turn the engine over to see if it had pressure. The van started without the fuel line hooked up. I put the fuel line back on and the thing has run ever since. I know that there is still a problem, and its going to do it another time when i'm not around and leave my wife stuck somewhere. Just want to she what your thoughts are.
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Monday, November 30th, 2009 AT 11:42 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If the check engine light didn't come on, I would guess there is a problem with fuel pressure. Have you replaced the fuel filter? Also, when you removed the fuel line (before your wife turned the key) was it under pressure? When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back. Let me know.
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 5:13 PM
Tiny
KEVIN5151
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 62,000 MILES
CAR TURNS OVER BUT NO START IF YOU LET SET OVERNIGHT IT WILL START UP AND AFTER SOME TIME IT WILL STOP AGAIN
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Crank but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AQUICK
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 43,000 MILES
Enter your question.2005 T&C. I was driving, turned a corner and it died, now won't start. Used a scanner and got no codes. HELP
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STINGRAY-02
  • MEMBER
Dont know but sounds like a loose / broken wire to me has this problem happened before like on a rough patch of road. Also scanners only work if the check engine light is on while the engine is running.
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Have you checked to see if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine?
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:45 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SONJA MAYO
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I was driving my van down the highway and it suddenly stopped as if the engine simply disappeared. I pulled over and turned the key off and back on to see if it would start but it would not start. It had dash lights but absolutely no ignition turn over. Checked under hood and found the fuse to the fuel pump was blown. The battery was dead. Prior to that week, the alternator ha dbeen aking odd noises. Maybe alternator drained battery causing malfunction in electric system. Is this possible? Suggestions?
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Get the alternator load tested -start here
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
You shouldve had some warning lights (battery light, check engine light )

suspect bad alternator 1st
charge battery and start engine, check charging system and alternator
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SONJA MAYO
  • MEMBER
That was the strange part. No warning lights.
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VERN SMITH
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
A lot of replacing. The plugs and wires the coil pack, crank shaft position sensor, cam shaft position sensor. Still no start. You can smell gas so I know the fuel pump works. The last test I tried was to check spark from the coil pack, there was none. What could cause this?
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good evening,

I would start with a compression test to be sure the timing is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Roy
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RUDY24
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
My T&C seems to have an intermittent vapor lock problem and only during the summer.

It runs fine, stop and shut it off, half of the time it will restart, no problem. Other times it will stumble for a few seconds, like it is vapor locking, and die, then will not restart for anywhere from 5 minutes to two hours. HELP!
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The first thing is to have the diagnostic fault codes read and recorded. The people at most auto parts stores will do that for you for free. The next thing is to check for spark when the engine cranks but won't run. If that is missing, there are two sensors that commonly fail by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for an hour.
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RUDY24
  • MEMBER
There are no codes when this happens, that's what is maddening about this! I didn't think about checking for spark, I'll do that tomorrow. Also, are you talking about the cam and crank sensors?

Thanks for the help!
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Yup, those are them. Often they won't set a fault code because there isn't enough time as the engine coasts to a stop, or the conditions to set the code aren't met during cranking. In that case you need a scanner to view live data to see which signal is missing. I have Chrysler's DRB3 scanner which lists both sensors as "No" or "Present" during cranking.

Also be aware the cam sensor is adjustable and the air gap is critical. They need to be installed with a special spacer. If you guess, like I did once, that can result in an intermittent stalling problem.
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Sunday, August 30th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)

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