1996 Chrysler Sebring wheel bearings

Tiny
DIRTFINDER
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
I have had the front bearings replaced 3 times within the last two years. They are bad again. What are they doing wrong? I am going to replace them myself this time. What are the torque specs I need to be concerned with? Is there anything else I need to know to do the job right?

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Sunday, July 13th, 2008 AT 1:02 PM

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Tiny
CAHALDO
  • MEMBER
FIRST, check your motor mounts. If they're shot, eveything is out of alignment.
To get it apart you need a ball joint and tie rod joint "pickle fork" or removal tool- wither tool you can rent from the parts store in most cities. On the ground, remove the hubcap and notice the large nut on the axle. Remove the cotter pin, the castilated cover and spring (underneath that) and brake the large nut loose on the axle before raising the car. You may need a torch to heat it up. Next jack the car, support it, and remove the wheel. Next remove the caliper by 2 ten mm bolts on the back. Hang the caliper on a coat hanger or mechanics wire and keep it out of the way.
Two ten mm bolts hod the ABS on. Carefully remove it and let it hang out of the way. Remove the lower ball joint, the upper ball joint, and tap the center ot the hub where the axle splines into the hub assy, and remover the hub assy with the suspension bracket from the car.
On a bench or in a press preferably; Use a 14mm TORX SOCKET to release the bearing. Push out the bearing either with a BFH, or a press.
Clean the bolts and anti- seize them.
Carefully flip the frame over n the bench and evenly tap the HUB (not the flanges) fo force it into the frame EVENLY. Once you arre down a bit, screw the bots by hand back on until they are FLUSH with the frame and just begin to pull fir hub assy into the frame. EVENLY tighten a little at a time until the assy bottoms out in the frame. Since this is a Seebring, tighten to 80 fit pounds. (Personally, I think that's too much for stretched out bolts, but that's book.)
Reassemble in reverse of how you took it apart. When installing the upper ball joint (after the lower), slightly jack the lower assy into the upper, then thread the nut on the upper. Make sure the axle is in place. Thread the large nut on to the axle and tighten. (Don't forget to put the disk on!) Put the caliper back on, pushing the pads out enough to realign it on the disk. Add the tire, and tighten, Put her down, and retighten. Retighten the axle, add the castilated shield and cotter pin, add a hubcap, and beer. You're done. About 2 hours on your hands and knees. Good luck!
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Monday, November 30th, 2009 AT 5:04 PM

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