1977 Chrysler Le Baron hot wire my car

Tiny
LANCEK4
  • MEMBER
  • 1977 CHRYSLER LE BARON
1977 Chrysler Le Baron

does anyone know which wires to cross under the steering colum? Iknow it sound sketchy but shit, it my car. There are 6 wires going up the collum, and 4 coming out. Id have to go down to the car again to see what the colors are. The ignition truns so power is supplied, I wouldnt need to coonect those wires I think, I only need to find the positive power to by pass the ignition. Please, I have one day to figur this out and I dont want to fk up my wiring or my car. Im not sure where the starter is but I think it has a housing and I cant reach it (especially if is snowing). I just want to start my car reliably until I can fix it properly.
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 1:03 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Hi lancek4, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

Quick tempo. Fix -Do this use a jumper wiore and power the ignition coil positive terminal from the battery positive post-turn key to ON and find starter relay and short it out-doing this should cause the engine to crank up and continue to run -let me know-
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 1:43 AM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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Where is a relay? Is it on the starter? I cant get to the starter. And besides, I need a relyable way to start my car even if there is 5' of snow on the ground. I cant get under the car all the time. I need an easy, quick, reliable way to start my car.
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 10:54 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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I cannot recall exactly where its at been a long time, but follow the positive battery cable it will take straight to it before the starter motor
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 1:18 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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I do
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 2:05 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
  • MEMBER
Just skip the last message. Can I use any wire to jump accros the ciol/battry/ like an extension cord? Lol I know - Im lame right now.

Ok, so is the relay the selinoid? Or another term for the starter? I do not understand. And is not both poles on the coil positive? But what is a relay?
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 2:10 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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So follow the positive batry cable and the first thing it connects to is the relay?
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 2:11 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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I can use a speaker wire!
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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Crap man, thats way under there. I jackt the car up a followed the bat cable, I think its the starter Im looking at but sht theres a plate gard or something. Man, thats no easy way into there, and I cant see up in there. I need a way even if there is 5' of snow. I cant be taking aprat my car to start it if im in a parking lot. Crap. I was so optomistic. What else can I do? Is crossing the yellow and red wires the same as the proceedure I just tried to get at?
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 2:36 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
  • MEMBER
OK so I guess I got two fo you guys helping me. I hope one of you gets back to me soon.
There is a brown wire from the battry pos to a small black box in the firewall in front of the driver side. Is that the relay? It plugs in there and there are a number of other plugins that lead out. So connect wire from pos battery to pos coil pole (either one) then. Do I pull the brown plug from the box and short the bat brown wire to the coil?
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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What do I short?
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 3:14 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Maybe I can help you guys out here. I have three of these cars in my yard including a '78 model.

You never stated what the problem is. I assume from reading what you're trying to do the engine does not crank when you turn the ignition switch. This is a real simple, basic, straight forward system. It would be easier to diagnose and repair it than trying to jump stuff, but if that's what you want to do, how to do it still depends on what's wrong. You have to jumper / bypass / short together something that is going to bypass the problem. For example, the neutral safety switch is on the lower rear left side of the transmission but bypassing it up on top won't help if that isn't the problem.

Some information that will help us includes:

Do you hear a light single click under the hood when you turn the ignition switch to "crank"?

Do you hear one kind of loud clunk from the starter but it doesn't spin the engine?

Do you hear a rapid succession of clicking, almost like a loud buzzing noise when you try to crank the engine?

Do the dome lights or head lights stay bright or go out when trying to crank the engine?

All of these have different causes and can lead to a solution. If the battery and cable connections are fine and there is just a problem in the starter system, rasmataz was trying to explain how to bypass the starter relay. The whole system can be broken down into three circuits. The tiny-current circuit goes through the ignition switch and neutral safety switch to activate the starter relay. The relay contacts are part of the medium-current circuit that passes about ten amps of current to the starter solenoid which is built into the starter. That solenoid activates the switch in the starter that passes the very high current to the starter motor, about 150 amps. So, the key switch uses a little current to turn on the switch that passes a medium current to turn on the switch that controls the high current.

It's not practical to bypass the high-current circuit. You'd need a huge cable and would burn your fingers. There isn't much in that circuit anyhow. The tiny-current circuit doesn't cause much trouble, at least not on most Chrysler products of that era. The most common way to get a dead starter circuit to crank the engine is by bypassing the starter relay contacts. Be sure the transmission is in "park" because you will be bypassing the neutral safety switch too. You'd look silly running after the car if it started in gear! Smile

The starter relay is a metal box that is bolted to the firewall just next to the driver's side hood hinge. It is about 1 1/4" by 2" and will have four terminals for sure, possibly five. Two wires could be bolted on or they could all be plug-in type connectors. The style changed somewhere in the mid '70s but the wires are the same. To do yourself what the ignition switch normally does, you want to jumper the two fat wires on the relay. The one coming from the battery will be red and the one going to the starter solenoid will be dark brown. Speaker wire will work but a better choice is a spread open cotter pin. Wear gloves if you use a paper clip. It will get hot from the ten amps of current. On my '78 model, the two wires in question are bolted on. They can be connected very easily by placing a screwdriver blade between the two of them.

If jumping the relay that way works, you will know the battery, cables, connections, and starter motor are ok. The problem has to be with the contacts in the starter relay or something in that tiny-current circuit.

Caradiodoc
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 3:59 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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And the short at the relay works. Thank you.
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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Thank you so much. Yes I got in contact with a mechnic friend of mine and he said the same thing, probly the neutral safety switch. And the jump works. Ill have to get it fixed sometime but thank you for your guys effort. Im sorry I can be somewhat spacey when Im frustrated. Thank you so much.
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
LANCEK4
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Ahh the peace of mind of proper information. Thank you for that explanation
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Tuesday, August 31st, 2010 AT 4:07 PM

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