I searched both online service manual companies a couple of hours ago. One had no torque specs, and the other was showing specs for the wrong type of steering system over many years and models.
I applaud your desire to properly torque fasteners, but given the situation, for now I am going to recommend common sense. I will look up the values later in a paper service manual when I get home. For the tapered stud on the outer tie rod end, use a combination wrench and pull on it with one hand. If you have a click-type torque wrench, a good guess would be thirty foot pounds, then turn it tighter as necessary to insert the cotter pin. The same is true for the inner tie rod end ball and socket. You do not want to turn it so hard that the rack twists, although I have never actually heard of anyone doing that.
The jam nut between the two tie rod ends is tightened with an open-end wrench, and again, common sense applies. Leaving it too loose can allow it to loosen more from road shock, then the threads will hammer against each other and wear them down. I have seen that once where they separated and no threads were left.
If you put some grease on the threads so the alignment specialist does not have to fight with them a year or two from now, use axle grease, or, I like Chrysler's "Spray White Lube". Do not use their "Rust Penetrant". That stuff is way more effective than WD-40 as a penetrating oil, but as a lubricant, it opens the way up for moisture to follow it in, then the parts rust even worse. I used that on every alignment I did at the dealership for about a year, and when those cars came back for maintenance alignments a year or two later, I needed a torch to get them freed up.
Friday, January 6th, 2017 AT 5:18 PM