1996 Chrysler Cirrus 1996 Chrysler Cirrus, Crank/No Start

Tiny
DBC1019
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHRYSLER CIRRUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
I am in possession of a 1996 Chrysler Cirrus w/2.5 Mitusbishi V6.

This vehicle has a crank/no start condition. No codes present, timing marks are at specification. Vehicle has appx 40 psi fuel pressure while cranking. 12v is present at all fuel injector connectors during initial KOEO and KOECrank). Vehicle has good spark. Compression on cylinders 2-5 ranges between 220-235 psi, cyl 1 has 165 psi. Vehicle has no anti theft system either factory or aftermarket as far as I can tell.

I am a rather experienced technician, but would like some help. As far as I can tell, the vehicle should run. I do have fuel pressure, spark and timing marks are good. The compression is a bit high as far as I know. 178 is spec, and the fact that cylinder one is so different from the others is suspect to me. Since I technically have good compression, spark and fuel pressure I would assume that fuel injectors are not being pulsed by the PCM. If this were true, the vehicle would possibly start when starter fluid is introduced into the throttle body. The vehicle will not start when this is done though. The vehicle does need new spark plugs and wires, and mostl likely cap/rotor too. All the plugs are oil soaked due to leaking valve cover gaskets/grommets. There are signs of arcing on multiple places on the secondary ignition wires.

CMP regulates injector pulse, and CKPcontrols ignition pulse, I may have to borrow a scan tool to check for CMP signal in the PCM. Can ignition voltage be too weak? Can I check for CMP with a DVOM at PCM harness connector? Car was driven, parked for about 6 hours, then current situation was discovered. Unsure of how car ran prior to this.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2009 AT 7:35 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You sound like you know what you're doing. I reviewed everything you said and like you am confused. The engine compression makes no sense. Like you said, 178 is spec with a tolerance of 25% between cylenders, but how can there be between 220 and 235 in 2-5 unless there is something in there that shouldn't be there? Is there any evidence of coolant on the plugs that could be taking up space causing the compression to increase?

The only thing I question at this point is the fuel pump pressure. You are getting 40PSI when cranking. My book says it should be getting between 47 and 51psi when cranking, but that doesn't justify it not starting with starting fluid.

Based on everything you have mentioned, I don't think there is a problem with the crank or cam position sensor, you said the timing is right, it is getting good spark. Like you said, it should start unless 4 of the 6 cylenders are filled with oil or coolant. When you removed those plugs, what condition were they in?

Joe
Please bear with me on this. We'll get it figured out but at this point, as you mentioned, it doesn't make sense and I've been working on cars for nearly 30 years. Let me know about the plugs and we'll go from there. If I can't get it figured out, I have access to several other techs here that will jump in and help. By the way, Happy new year and thanks for using 2carpros. Com.
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Friday, January 1st, 2010 AT 1:02 AM
Tiny
DBC1019
  • MEMBER
Hydro-lock sounds like a feasible scenario. Coolant is mostly if not all water. The thermostat was broken. The pieces that make up the thermostat were there, the spring was no longer compressed though.

We have had very cold weather, and it has frozen about 5-6 different times this Winter. Freezing weather can burst a number of seals and gaskets. As you pointed out, liquids do not compress and could cause high CC pressures. The Kicker is that no fluid came out of the cylinders during the compression test. I performed a visual inspection with an led flashlight. No fluid is present in the cylinders. The spark plugs are not fouled, just worn.

The sound the engine makes when cranking sounds a little suspect to me and I believe that Cylinder one is the only cylinder in good shape.

I was wondering??? What about Lash Adjustment??? Valves are shut closed??? It has happened on many cars??? On Tuesday 01/05, I'm gonna run the battery on a charger, change the oil and filter, add a Premium Oil Additive (Thickener) and crank for 20 seconds intervals. I don't know how old the starter is but I'm gonna take a decent 45 second pause between cranks. The oil pump should pump up the lifters and perhaps start to open those valves.

Bleeding Lifters???


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/456452_96chrycirrus25_1.jpg

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Friday, January 1st, 2010 AT 3:21 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I wish I was there to hear it with you. Based on your new questions, I don't think lifters are the problem, at least not for the compression test. When you checked the timing, did you remove all covers from the front of the engine? Did you check both cams for timing?

Let me know.
Joe
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Friday, January 1st, 2010 AT 11:06 PM

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