Chevy throttle problems.

Tiny
RMOHNEY
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  • CHEVROLET SILVERADO
OK Here we go. 1995 chevy 350 1500. I developed a strange proplem. I carry my plow mount all year round but this year when I attach the blade for some reason when I put the truck in reverse it will sputter and stall. Take the blade off and it is fine. I replaced the alternator and battery but still had the problem. It seemed to go away for awhile but when I used the plow it really pulled the voltage down and would stall the truck. Problem went away. One thing we did was turn the throttle stop screw in to try to keep the rpms up. Now when the truck idles the service engine light comes on. As soon as I put it in gear and drive it the light goes out. Now in the last couple of weeks the throttle has started sticking and the truck speeds up, shut it off and after a couple of minutes its ok. Some times you can feel it wanting to take off for a second and then it seems fine. Now tonight it started stalling again in drive or reverse. Seems I could floor it and it did want to go at all. Kinda like having the brakes on. It stalled once and when I put it in nutral to try to start it it would not refire, turned the headlights out and it would fire. Removed the plow but still had the problem. Could all of this be related and where should I start. I have replaced the dist plugs and wires 6 months ago. Truck ran fine in the morning but when I went to leave for work this all started again.
Saturday, February 17th, 2007 AT 10:09 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
CHEVY22
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Sounds like it may be a few problems, is the cel on all of the time now? If so have the codes read,
the plow blade issue, was the harness to the plow unhooked when the blade wasnt on?One part of the problem with the dim lights sounded like either a short to ground or a corroded connector to the plow

lmk

jim
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
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No the ses light is not on. I think it holds them in memory so I need to have them checked. The plow issue was with everything plugged in. Put the blade on and no run take it off and ran fine. Now its not running right with everything unplugged with the blade off. Even in park if I step on the brake pedal it will stall. Then everything seemed fine. Took it for a ride and it was ok. Parked it in the garage for few minutes and problem came back. It will stall or almost stall just by turning the head lights or heater blower on, took it for another ride and it felt like I was trying to drive with the brakes on. Could not even break the tires loose in 2wd on ice coverd roads. At a complete lose right now. The carb is pretty crudy and I am going to clean it as best as I can. It just seems that nomatter what kind of load I put on the motor the rpms just drop right off.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
CHEVY22
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Yes the codes do stay in memory, its called freeze frame data and it will show when the problem occurred and what the conditions were when it was set, I would start there, simple is good, take your time and try not to get frustrated

thansk
jim
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
RMOHNEY
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Barrowed a tester and was all happy and couldnt wait to use it. Got home and found out that my truck had a rectangle plug and the tester has a d shaped plug. Or am I looking at the wrong plug.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
CHEVY22
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Your plug will be under the drivers side dash has approx 16 pins and is 3 inches wide and about an inch tall the top of the plug is wider than the bottom called obdII data link connector I think there is an ad on the homepage
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
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The d shaped plugs are for the 1996 and up. My truck is a 95. I typoed it in my first post.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
CHEVY22
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Sorry, depending on the production date some of the 95's had obd2.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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That will be an Idle Air control problem because you manually turned up the idle, taking the PCM's controlling ability away. The plow. Is it hooked up to the back-up lights in the truck? That is the only thing that makes sense out of stalling in reverse
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
CHEVY22
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Good point jack I missed that part
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
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No the plow is not hooked into the back up lights. As a matter of fact I disconnected all the wiring to the plow and it still does it. The problem started before I messed with the idle. I did back it out the same amount I Took it in. I pulled the plugs and 3 of them are junk and this may be part of the problem. I am going to pull the dist cap tonight and see what it looks like. I do think its a combination of a few things that all came to a head at the same time. I cant get it to a shop untill next week some time but I would like to nip this in the butt before then. Thanks for the input. If I get it I will let you guys know. Thanks
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
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One other thing, If I get it to stay running in drive or reverse it seems to be ok for a little bit and as soon as I start driving in eather direction it stalls. That is with the lights on or off. Sometimes it will go father then other times. As soon as its in drive and I try to get it back in the garage I have to really be on the gas as it starts jerking around to keep it going. I am not sure if the bad plugs are the cause of most of the problem or the result of the problem.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
CHEVY22
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If you havent done the plugs go ahead and do them, you said they looked bad anyway, and recheck and let us know
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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I smell a blown reg :shock:
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
RMOHNEY
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Changed plugs, coil and pulled dist cap and checked it. Still have the same problem. If it was the reg wouldnt I see the battery gage drop way low first. It even stalls with all the electrical stuff I can turn off. It will idle better but as soon as you giver some gas it wants to stall. It will stall quicker with the lights on. It does seem like it is awfull rich.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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By reg I meant the fuel pressure regulator which is inconveniently located inside the intake. When they blow it dumps raw fuel straight into the engine
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
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Sounds like you may be onto something. That may be why the plugs look so bad, but would that not affect the idle while it is in park or netural. Or could it be that its fouling the plugs and as soon as there is any type of load it just cant handle it. Not all of the plugs were that bad just the last 2 0n the left side and the next to last on the right side. And they were bad. Black as heck. I am going to check the new ones tonight so see if it fouled them out in the 10 minutes that I ran it. One other thing is this has a throttle body and the injectors are located on top of it. Would the fuel regulator still be inside the intake in this situation.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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Sounds just like the reg. You will see why those cyl's were black when you take the upper plenum off
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
RMOHNEY
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Checked plugs again and the looked fine. The fuel pressure regulater is on top of the throttle body on the TBI which is what I have. I can watch the spray comming out of the injectors and it looks like a lot of fuel but I am not sure how much should be comming out. Its spraying enough that it seems to be puddling up on the butterflies and on the bores. If I give it some gas it doesnt look like I am getting more fuel it just looks like its being pulled in faster. Needless to say I will change the regulator. How much is involved in changing it out 1995 chevy 350 TBI. I am afraid of breaking the wires going to the injectors they seem pretty hard and brittle.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
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My bad. I thought it was a CPI engine. Havent had to replace many of those regs. You said the plugs on one side are junk? Might be one of the injectors
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
RMOHNEY
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Ok first I would like to thank you guys for your input. I do think I am gaining ground here let me tell you what I have found so far. I decided to unplug the wiring that goes to the rear tail, break and back up lights. When I did this the truck ran alot better. It did shut of once while I was driving it thought but it does not stall while in the reverse or when I turn on the lights and so on. Plugged it back in and as soon as I would step on the brake it would stall. Noticed 2 grounds wires bolted to the frame are rusted bretty bad. I am going to clean that area up and try it again. Now with that unpluged I notice that the rpms are cycling up and down. 500 to 800 while it is idling or in gear ( not as bad while in gear ) after a few minutes is seems fine. It seems to hesitate a little when I go to drive off. Could this be a bad 02 sensor or MAF.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 10:18 AM

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