2005 Chevy Silverado P0342 CAM Sensor Replacement

Tiny
RICHG922
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,975 MILES
I am having trouble starting my truck. Finally logged a P0342 code calling out cam sensor. Where is it located and how do I replace it? Can I test it beofre buying the new part? Ohm test?
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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 5:46 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
You are going to need a scan tool to read parameter identification. Also will need to disconnect the sensor a verify 12 volt refernece. If there are no short to grounds, or other wiring issues and no debris between the sensor and the reluctor ring, you could have a bad CMP sensor or in the worst case a bad PCM.

The sensor is located behind the #2 knock sensor on top of the lower plenum.
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
RICHG922
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Had the code read with the scanner tool but no parameter reference. Where is the reluctance ring?
Where would debris come from? Engine has never been touched and only has 13,000 miles?
Thank You
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
The reluctor ring is on the camshaft. Think of the CMP as a distributor, it's where distributors used to be.

Parameter ID is seeing how the component is acutally functioning via the scan tool. For instance, the PID for CMP, you would want to watch the low to high and the high to low transition.
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 3:50 PM
Tiny
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Is there a color code for the wire connector so I can correctly test for the presence of the 12 volts? Is the CMP Hall effect or magnetic on this engine?
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
Test for 12 volt reference at the CMP connector. Hall effect is the measurement of the magnetic field.
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
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Is it possible to access and check the reluctor without cam removal? What is confusing is that once the truck starts, it runs great.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 4:01 AM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
You will only need to check at the sensor. Pull the sensor out and look down the distributor hole with a flashlight to check for debris.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 7:19 AM
Tiny
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Should I have access to remove it without removing the injector rails and such? I will attempt tonight.

Thank You
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 8:15 AM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
You will have to remove the upper plenum.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 8:21 AM
Tiny
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So I reached behind and disconnected the leads. I took voltage reading with DVOM. With ignition key on I had 10.7 volts on red ("C") lead to ground (block). I believe it should have been 12 (battery voltage). I tested the battery voltage at the battery and only had 11, 45v. Reconnetted sensor and started truck. Now had 14.3 volts w/truck running. And 12.3 volts with it off across the battery Unfortunately I didn't check the voltage at the sensor again. Where does it get the 12v from, ignition switch? Can I move the entire injector unit whole with the upper plenum?What voltages should I get on the pins of the CMP?
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
Yes, with key on you should have a 12 volt reference signal at the connector. As far as the CMP you should test it for resistance while the connectore is off.

Let me know your voltage and resistance measurements.
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
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I'll have to try tomorrow. It is tough getting my hands behind the intake/injector rails. Since there are 3 pins, which do I take resistance across? As for voltages. Red wire should be 12v? Then I believe the br/wh is signal. What should volts be on pink(low reference)? Take voltages between each pin and block?
As for the whole pupper plenum asembly, can I move it as a unit? Looks like I just need 4 inches forward for easier access?
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
  • MEMBER
I tell ya, sometimes you have to be bold and just start taking things apart, provided you have the inclination and talent to get things back together.

You sound like you have all the right qualities, so dig in. When you get back at it tomorrow, let me know so we can keep it fresh in YOUR mind.

When we get this resolved the satisfaction you'll fell in tremendous.

Be sure to donate!
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Wednesday, January 27th, 2010 AT 8:39 PM
Tiny
RICHG922
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I will but want to do those tests first. Most important is again where shouold I take the resistance between? Which pins?

On a side note, Would you recommend a particular scan tool for the DIYer? Considering the Actron units.
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Thursday, January 28th, 2010 AT 3:59 AM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
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Give me your fax number. I will send you the diagnostic flow chart for this code.
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Thursday, January 28th, 2010 AT 7:52 AM
Tiny
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Can you send them to the email I used for the account or how can I privately send my fax #? I would prefer it not be on a public website. I'm sure you understand.
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Thursday, January 28th, 2010 AT 8:06 AM
Tiny
SCOTTY DEE
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You can email me the fax number. Scottydee@allaboutcarcare. Com
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Thursday, January 28th, 2010 AT 8:09 AM

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