Clutch engagement, Master cylinder/slave cylinder replacement

Tiny
LARENEGADE
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 CHEVROLET S-10
This is my first time asking a question. I hope it makes sense? I have a 1998 Chevrolet S10 two wheel drive 2.2 liter, with five speed, with 103,000 miles. Original transmission, clutch and hydraulic parts. My clutch feels fine most of the time with good pedal pressure and easy shift when cold or stopped. Lately when approaching a stop sign/light, the truck stays under power when clutch pedal has been depressed like it is failing to engage. Pedal play is good but at times seems to be weak. I have found no leaking fluids except very small amount of fluid or oil that appears where the rear main might possibly be leaking but fluid in the clutch master cylinder has remained the same level. Could a small amount of motor oil make the clutch slip and not engage? Clutch master cylinder fluid very dirty, black and filthy, like DOT-3 has some type of liquid swirling floating on top. No drops of any oil or fluid detected on driveway, floorboard or engine compartment firewall. The rubber flexible part of the clutch master cylinder cap(interior) is pulled down into the fluid not up in the top of the cap, like the brake cylinder caps bottom interior is positioned. Should it be pushed up into the bottom of the cap top or down into the fluid? The fluid level is down approximately one to one and half inches from the top of the cylinder top when the cap is off. If the cap bottom should be up into the cap not down then fluid could be added. No leaking fluid in the floorboard or engine firewall. At times it is becoming hard to shift into first from reverse or neutral but when accelerating through third, fourth into fifth I rarely use the clutch. I am considering changing new DOT-3 fluid in the clutch master cylinder, is that possible, would it help anything if it is contaminated. Could it get contaminated during normal use? How could it get so dirty unless a seal or something was failing in the clutch master or slave cylinder? Should I go ahead and change clutch master cylinder? I always thought the sign of a master cylinder failing was fluid leaking under dash or on the firewall around master cylinder. I am unsure where to start. Could the master cylinder be losing pressure at times then working at other times? Is there a procedure to test the clutch master and slave cylinders without dropping transmission bell housing, etc?
Thank you for your time.
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Wednesday, September 5th, 2007 AT 1:14 AM

2 Replies

Tiny
PAPPIE1
  • MEMBER
I also have a 1998 s-10 with the same problem. The way I fixed it was just removed all the fluid from the master, clean, refilled, and bled. It works fine now with no problems. I heard countless times that our trucks clutch after 100,000 gets temperamental and the fix is just a good bleeding. Do not why. Also the swirling action I swear every s-10 clutch has it. If there is no swirl, I would be worried. If I had to guess, I say its moister from the seals seeping in but that is a far stretch. I cleaned and bled my clutch over 20,000 ago and it still works fine. No hard shifting or pumping the pedal. The rubbery portion of the cap is suppose to be down into the fluid. Not up.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2007 AT 4:26 PM
Tiny
LARENEGADE
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Pappie1 you hit the spot.
I received your reply September 19 and just yesterday, September 18, changed my fluid and bled the line. Three different mechanics from different garages said to buy a new master cylinder that changing the fluid would not change anything. That damage surely had already been done. I left home and was in route to have a friend help me with changing the clutch master cylinder. I called ahead to Advanced Auto to spend $65.00 for a new one. After driving twenty five miles from my home, the person I talked to on the phone said they did not have one. I was upset at the time for the wasted gas so I decided to try changing the fluid and hope for the best. Because of his mistake, I saved approximately $150.00 for the part and the time spent changing it out. I bled the old fluid out through the line and cleaned the reservoir. Refilled and bled the cylinder with fluid three times until fluid was coming through clean. It is now working perfect. This is a step that I will check and monitor from now on and recommend to all vehicle owners. How and where the filth and what seemed to be moisture came from, as you state, who knows. It is now obvious that the fluid in the brake master cylinder should be monitored and changed when dirty to prevent problems in the brake system. I had pushed the rubber interior of the cap up into the bottom of cap but will immediately pull it back down. General Motors should list this in preventive maintenance. Thanks,
Larenegade
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2007 AT 11:17 PM

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