Engine idles fine but no power on acceleration?

Tiny
JASON726
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
Used fuel tank, sending unit and pump from salvage yard were installed. Would run but had no power on take off/acceleration. Installed new fuel pump and it ran great for 2 months then it just lost power during ride home from work. Replaced fuel pump again with no results. Replaced both ignition coil packs and fuel filter, still no results. TPS is working fine. Not sure about fuel pressure regulator-and there is no port to check fuel pressure.
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Thursday, July 12th, 2007 AT 7:31 PM

51 Replies

Tiny
MOTLEYCRUE76
  • MEMBER
Hmmm.........does this prob happen when the engine is cold or only after it warms up/been running for 5 mins or more? could possibly be a bad IC module. if happens after a few mins of running. sounds like the same thing on my S-10. no power/stumbling on its face at full throttle, only way to check fuel pressure is to make a connection after the fuel filter with a homemade device that has the proper fittings for the lines and the gauge. This guide should help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Wednesday, September 19th, 2007 AT 2:25 AM
Tiny
TINA2573
  • MEMBER
I just did the catalytic converter on my truck runs like new! Make sure you hit the bolts with wd40 before you begin helped me a lot.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 12:15 PM
Tiny
BLITZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 99,000 MILES
My problem begins with a slight jolting if I step on the gas too hard and after the engine warms up its almost impossible to accelerate because the jolting is so bad. The truck refuses to accelerate like if somebody was pushing and releasing the brake in intervals while im stepping on the accelerator.

I checked the catalytic converter and it was fine.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Do you have a check engine light or has flashed?

Last major tune-up and what was replaced and adjusted?

Check the fuel pressure and the throttle position sensor-
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLITZ
  • MEMBER
No the check engine light hasn't turned on and haven't had a major tune up since I bought it like 2 years ago other than checking and changing fluids.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLITZ
  • MEMBER
Oh man and I forgot to add a piece of information. It does fine towards the end of the gear but its the beginning (the first half), when I first shift in the gear that it jolts hard. After it warms up, it jolts the entirety of the gear. It does this for all 5 gears.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Give it a tune-up-and check the fuel pressure/throttle position sensor.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SKATER8830
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
1995 Chevy S-10 4 cyl Automatic

My 95 s10 is acting up on me, ill drive it a few miles and then the power steering goes out and when I try to give it some gas it wont go and the motor wont rev, so I have to put it in park turn it off and start it back up and go alittle more ways but it then dies out again. I just put a new fuel pump and filter on today, I have put a new modual on but no the whole modual thing just the little part that goes behind the carborator.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Get teh engine scanned if you can. Then when it is running hook up a vacuum guage and see what it reads at idle. If it reads 15" or below you may have a clogged converter. If iti's that all you need do is disconnect teh converter and if the engine runs ok then you get a replacement for it.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:23 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASAND211
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 180,000 MILES
I cannot figure out what is going on with this truck. It has a 4.3L engine with "Z" VIN code. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, MAP sensor, and IAC valve. None of these things has helped. The TPS seems to be working correctly as I tested it with a volt meter. I replaced the MAP sensor because it was receiving 5 volts but the signal wire showed a voltage of 1.4 volts and did not change with suction. The IAC valve was stuck so I replaced it. The EGR valve tested correctly and wasn't replaced.

When I start the truck(starts easily) it will idle at around 1000-1100 RPM for a about 30 seconds and then drops to about 600 and then to 500 and then stalls. It will staying running if the accelerator is pressed but it is weak during acceleration.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Start by checking the fuel pressure. If it drops off as the engine speeds drops, suspect a plugged or collapsing pickup screen in the gas tank.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASAND211
  • MEMBER
I greatly appreciate the quick response. I have a fuel pressure test gauge but I cannot locate a Schrader valve on the truck. The fuel lines exit the throttle body and proceed down the firewall. Most pictures I've found show a Schrader valve on the top of the engine on the driver's side however the engines are not identical to the one I have.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I have the same problem, and I've been running with a pressure gauge attached for over a year. My problem only occurs in warm weather and it just acted up today. You need a full set of adapters so you can find a rubber hose to pull off and insert a "tee". You may also find an aluminum block that screws into the throttle body in place of the supply line, and the supply line screws into that block. Either of those adapters will have the port to connect the gauge. Many auto parts stores rent or borrow tools and they will have the complete set of adapters in the kit.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASAND211
  • MEMBER
I have a domestic fuel pressure gauge by Actron and I found the adapter I need on their site so I will try to pick one up tomorrow. I will reply with what I find out in the pressure test. Thanks so much for your time.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASAND211
  • MEMBER
No one has the adapter that I need to attach the Actron fuel pressure gauge to the system. Can anyone provide any ideas on how to go about doing this? It seems i'd need to plumb one in with a scrader valve.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I don't have a test port either. I removed the rubber hose between the engine and fender, then inserted a tee and piece of hose that was part of my kit.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
95S10GUY
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
Hi. This is for a 1995 chevy s10, 2.2L four cyclinder, automatic and regular body style with approximately 170 K miles. After every long trip I have to top off the engine oil. Now, I smell burnt oil and it loses power when driving and also idles rough. Also, on your conclusion, what would be a estimate ( by average ) for repairs.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • EXPERT
Sounds like an oil leak that is getting on hot parts maybe exhaust parts. Are there any codes in computer? When was last spark plug change? You may also have a dirty MAF sensor.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
95S10GUY
  • MEMBER
Thx Fixitmr. Spark plugs were changed one year ago.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WESWALKER88
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 179,985 MILES
Truck will not go over thirty mph. The fuel cuts out and starts to sputter at 2000 rpm all the way to 3000 rpm. I have changed plugs, MAP, TPS, IAT, crank sensors, wires, cool pack, cool mod, fuel pressure, fuel pump, crank, timing gears and chain ECM/ECU. Checked grounds, injectors, head gasket. I check compression it is 180 across the board.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:24 AM (Merged)

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