Engine idles fine but no power on acceleration?

Hmmm.........does this prob happen when the engine is cold or only after it warms up/been running for 5 mins or more? could possibly be a bad IC module. if happens after a few mins of running. sounds like the same thing on my S-10. no power/stumbling on its face at full throttle, only way to check fuel pressure is to make a connection after the fuel filter with a homemade device that has the proper fittings for the lines and the gauge. This guide should help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

I just did the catalytic converter on my truck runs like new! Make sure you hit the bolts with wd40 before you begin helped me a lot.

My problem begins with a slight jolting if I step on the gas too hard and after the engine warms up its almost impossible to accelerate because the jolting is so bad. The truck refuses to accelerate like if somebody was pushing and releasing the brake in intervals while im stepping on the accelerator.

I checked the catalytic converter and it was fine.

No the check engine light hasn't turned on and haven't had a major tune up since I bought it like 2 years ago other than checking and changing fluids.

Oh man and I forgot to add a piece of information. It does fine towards the end of the gear but its the beginning (the first half), when I first shift in the gear that it jolts hard. After it warms up, it jolts the entirety of the gear. It does this for all 5 gears.

1995 Chevy S-10 4 cyl Automatic

My 95 s10 is acting up on me, ill drive it a few miles and then the power steering goes out and when I try to give it some gas it wont go and the motor wont rev, so I have to put it in park turn it off and start it back up and go alittle more ways but it then dies out again. I just put a new fuel pump and filter on today, I have put a new modual on but no the whole modual thing just the little part that goes behind the carborator.

I cannot figure out what is going on with this truck. It has a 4.3L engine with "Z" VIN code. I replaced the plugs, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, MAP sensor, and IAC valve. None of these things has helped. The TPS seems to be working correctly as I tested it with a volt meter. I replaced the MAP sensor because it was receiving 5 volts but the signal wire showed a voltage of 1.4 volts and did not change with suction. The IAC valve was stuck so I replaced it. The EGR valve tested correctly and wasn't replaced.

When I start the truck(starts easily) it will idle at around 1000-1100 RPM for a about 30 seconds and then drops to about 600 and then to 500 and then stalls. It will staying running if the accelerator is pressed but it is weak during acceleration.

Any help would be appreciated.

I greatly appreciate the quick response. I have a fuel pressure test gauge but I cannot locate a Schrader valve on the truck. The fuel lines exit the throttle body and proceed down the firewall. Most pictures I've found show a Schrader valve on the top of the engine on the driver's side however the engines are not identical to the one I have.

I have a domestic fuel pressure gauge by Actron and I found the adapter I need on their site so I will try to pick one up tomorrow. I will reply with what I find out in the pressure test. Thanks so much for your time.

No one has the adapter that I need to attach the Actron fuel pressure gauge to the system. Can anyone provide any ideas on how to go about doing this? It seems i'd need to plumb one in with a scrader valve.

Hi. This is for a 1995 chevy s10, 2.2L four cyclinder, automatic and regular body style with approximately 170 K miles. After every long trip I have to top off the engine oil. Now, I smell burnt oil and it loses power when driving and also idles rough. Also, on your conclusion, what would be a estimate ( by average ) for repairs.

Thx Fixitmr. Spark plugs were changed one year ago.

Truck will not go over thirty mph. The fuel cuts out and starts to sputter at 2000 rpm all the way to 3000 rpm. I have changed plugs, MAP, TPS, IAT, crank sensors, wires, cool pack, cool mod, fuel pressure, fuel pump, crank, timing gears and chain ECM/ECU. Checked grounds, injectors, head gasket. I check compression it is 180 across the board.