1992 Chevy S-10 1992 S-10 - Sputtering, not starting, stalli

LEVELED.HEAD

MEMBER
1992 CHEVROLET S-10
6 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
110,000 MILES

Just redeployed back to the states a few weeks ago. 1992 Chevy S-10. Ran great, didnt do a darn thing to the truck even though it sat for a whole year, except for a new battery (for safe measure only).

But on this day, drove it to work in the AM, perfect.

Evening time, jumped in, cranked it over, and it continued cranking. After several cranks and rest time in-between cranks it started trying to turn over, sputtering and spitting heavy white exhaust.

Anytime I would not pump the gas, it would immediatly stop sputtering and stall.

This will be the first true mechanical-engine problem and hasn't given me any noticible signs leading to this grand event.

Now, after several attempts with duplicate results, I have given up for the night.

After reading the forum I see a lot of people tackling; fuel pump, distributor cap, sending unit, ECM switch-fuse, EGR Valve, Plugs-Wires.

Let me know what you guys think.

-- Newman 27 September 2010 --

Monday, September 27th, 2010 AT 8:14 PM

4 Replies

BLACKOP555

MECHANIC
10,386 POSTS

First off thanks for serving the country.

Next off I would suggest draining the gas and replacing the filter and refilling it. Heavy white exhaust indicates bad head gasket, trans fluid getting in the engine or most likely excess moisture in fuel.

If fuel sat for a year it would most definitely accumulate water. Especially over winter. Would run good at first untill you started getting down on fuel then you end up mixing up the sediments and water causing poor running.

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Monday, September 27th, 2010 AT 9:42 PM

LEVELED.HEAD

MEMBER
4 POSTS

:Update from original poster:

1992 Chevy S10 4.3 6cyl Two Wheel Drive

Woke up first thing this AM and heading right over to a chained part store and picked up the following;

Distributor Cap,
Ignition Control Module,
Ignition Coil,
Ignition Rotor,
Fuel Filter,
Set of Plugs and Wires,
EGR Valve,
PVC Valve,
Starting fluid (to clean certain components),

And of course a manual in case I ran into any unfamiliar specifications. Didn't even pull the plastic off, as everything was visual and took more patience then effort.

After about 4.5 hours of locating, pulling all this off, cleaning surfaces, applying anti-seize and all the right lubes for electrical surfaces, and of course putting it back together. Not to mention some of the replacements were different then the original so it took extra time figuring how the changes applied with installation (such as brackets, bolts, clips, mounting).

Now all installed ---- Started right the heck up, and it sputtered for about 4 - 6 seconds and then it cleared right up and has been starting up and running like a TOP all day.

Not exactly sure which specific component failed, as all of these parts could have been the culprit. Everything listed here really, for my knowledge produce similar-same problems. But everything I pulled off, in reality really really needed to be replaced. Blackened, oily electrical components, plugs and wires were corroded.

Hopefully this topic, answers, and updates will help someone in the future.

Thanks 2carpros.

SGT Newman
4IBCT, Fort Riley, KS

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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 8:11 PM

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