Wheel Bearing replacement

Tiny
SAMRX210
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  • CHEVROLET
I have a 93 geo metro lsi 2-door convertable. 1.0 eng. 3 cyl. 5 spd. 102,000 mi.
It has a wicked grinding in front end on turns. I jacked it up and think is wheel bearing. I have the parts but not sure about tools. Will I need a slide hammer? Can you give step by step removal prcedure? I will replace rotor also while in there.
Question 2:
How do I know if I need tranny fluid? I can't even find a dip stick! How to you check gear oil?
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Thursday, September 7th, 2006 AT 6:39 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
BAREFOOTBOB88
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I'm not sure about your wheel bearing problem but your transmission question I can answer. You won't find a dipstick for tranny fluid because it's a standard transmission. It's a sealed unit with permanent gear lube in it. You can't add fluid to it. If you ever find mtf fluid instead of atf fluid let me know. :)
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Saturday, September 9th, 2006 AT 2:35 PM
Tiny
SAMRX210
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Barefoot, Thanks for the reply. I have been working on the bearing and also searching the net for info.
I think somewhere I ran across a page that said the manual tranny fill plug is on the side of tranny closest to the firewall. Sounds like a plug so won't see it sticking out. I guess it uses a standard 3/8" ratchet head to remove. Takes 2 1/2 qt. To fill from empty. Drain plug is on bottom. Fill till coming out of fill plug. I think takes std. 80-90 gear oil. Chiltons makes no mention of that ( says dip stick ).
I have spindal off and removed hub. Bearing race froze to hub. Inner and outter seals are different sizes. Has a single bearing ( double wide ) held in with a snap ring. Autozone got the rotor right but gave two bearings and two same seals. They will have to go back. Their bearing OD not big enough.
I got help from another page that told me I had to completely remove bolt holding spindel onto ball joint to get it off. Sure enough ball joint has a slot in it for the bolt. I did get it off without tearing the BJ boot so feel lucky. Will go to real parts store Mon. And get right bearings and seals. Then take to machine shop and have them press out/in as I don't have drafts that big and don't want to do it again by ruining bearing.
Thanks Again,
Sam
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Sunday, September 10th, 2006 AT 7:37 AM
Tiny
JACKOTRADES
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The problem you are describing is not typical for a bearing but is vary typical for the cv joints which will require changing the cv half shaft. Both are probably getting bad if one is making noise. You can inspect them by looking for a torn rubber boot, if one of the boots is torn then the other side is probably not bad. You can figure out which side it is by turning. If the grinding is strongest when making hard turn to the left then more than likely it is the right side and vice versa. Special tools require a big enough socket for the shaft bolt and a ball joint removal fork.
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Sunday, September 10th, 2006 AT 11:15 AM
Tiny
SAMRX210
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Just to let everyone know that the job is done. New driver's side wheel bearing and rotor. All is quiet again. Bearing ( one-double wide bearing on conv. ) And seals cost 80.00, old bearing pressed out and new one pressed in and hub pressed on? 45.00.
Busted knuckles? 5
Local shop quoted me 110.00 parts and labor ( if all goes well. ). So not sure if I saved any money or not. I do know parts were hard to find for convertable.
Thanks for all the input
Sam
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Friday, September 15th, 2006 AT 10:13 PM

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