Engine dies and won't run or start if turned off. HELP!

Tiny
ATHERTON
  • MEMBER
  • CHEVROLET IMPALA
I have a 1991 Chevy S10, 2.5 ltr, 4 cyc, 2wd, type A engine. The truck runs perfectly but once it gets hot will either die out and not restart or will run fine until I turn it off to run into a store for 30 mins but won't restart until a few hours later. The engine turns over, and sometimes catches for a second or two but makes awfull sounds and dies out. I let it cool for a few hours and it runs perfectly for another 10-20 mins. This is an ongoing problem that has been getting worse and worse. I replaced the fuel filter, crankcase filter, air filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires (as I noticed the spark was weak in a couple of the wires) and it ran better but still has the problem after driving for 10-20 mins. So I decided to replace the cap and rotor, as I was doing so the metal on the sides of the distributor broke off in my hands. So I replaced the Distributor and the truck seemed to run well, no more backfire, no more hesitation I thought I had it fixed. Drove it around for 20-30 mins no problems. Parked at the mall came back 45 mins later and it would start for 1or 2 secs and die rough. After trying like 10 times it started and didn't die out. It ran rough for about 30 seconds while I let it warm up but then once it settle down it was fine the entire drive of about 15 mins to my next stop. I Parked it for 5 mins while I picked something up and came back and the problem got worse. It would start but die out within a second or 2 after making ugly sounds. I kept trying to look for the problem under the hood while my g/f tried to start it but no luck, then eventually it started and ran. Drove home 2 mins away no problems. Once I was home I parked turned it off and it kept starting up perfect over and over again. What is wrong with my truck, please help! The same thing will happen tmrw but only at the most inconvenient time.
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 7th, 2006 AT 12:26 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
DARRYL
  • MEMBER
Hello: Did you replace the Coil? I have had them do crazy things like that.
Good luck
Darryl.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 8th, 2006 AT 7:57 AM
Tiny
ATHERTON
  • MEMBER
I replaced the entire distributor, is the coil seperate from the coil on the distributor. Are you refering to the ignition coil? Where would I locate the coil you are refering too and how big of a job is it?

An upddate, the engine hasn't died on me yet while running since I changed the Distribtuor, but the first night after it woudln't let me restart it for about 15 mins of playing, as stated in my original note. Since that little episode so far so good, but I know it will happen again. Does it still sound like the coil to you? IF so excellent I will see if I can replace that.

Another thing I was wondering is could it be the brick in the catalytic converter has come loose and some times it slips around and clogs the exhausts airway causing it to not start. Cause my cat rattles like you wouldn't believe off and on right now from bottoming out too many times directly onto it on speed bumps.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 8th, 2006 AT 12:51 PM
Tiny
DARRYL
  • MEMBER
Hello: If in your car the coil is right on top of the distributer, then that is the only coil. If the coil is not right in the top of the distributor then it is seperate. The guts of the converter would almost have to provide complete air tight blockage to keep it from starting. If it just causes partial blockage it will cause power loss, but should not keep it from starting.
Good luck
Darryl.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 8th, 2006 AT 10:02 PM
Tiny
ATHERTON
  • MEMBER
Yeah I have talked to a couple people now that think it might be the coil. I think it is seperate from the distributor, unfortunatly my manual doesn't say anythign about it. Could it also be referred to as the ignition coil?

Thanks for your help
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 9th, 2006 AT 1:45 AM
Tiny
DARRYL
  • MEMBER
Hello: Yes. It is indeed the IGNITION COIL, but most people that work on cars just use the term COIL because IGNITION is to be understood. So the word COIL and IGNITION COIL are used as the same thing
good luck
Darryl.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 9th, 2006 AT 6:35 AM
Tiny
HAZ_R_DOUS1
  • MEMBER
Ok your coil is on the underside of your intake manifold right beside where your dist cap is 2 bolts and BAM your done (eazy way to get to it and fix it jack up the pass side of truck and take wheel off and work though the engine mud flap I think it is a 10m bolt.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 9th, 2006 AT 5:05 PM
Tiny
ATHERTON
  • MEMBER
Ok replaced the coil and now things are running smooth. But after a couple days now I am having some trouble again. I drive it for 20-30 mins then park it. Try to start it and it starts but dies quickly. I do this a few times and give it some gas and it finally just barelly keeps running. I give it a min of occasional gas and then it's ok to drive. When it is started from cold, no problems whatsoever. Any suggestions what else it could be? I heard talk of the ignition module, but I am not sure if that is actually on the distributor or seperate, if on it I may have already replaced it. Maybe a fuel relay, fuel pump, thermostat problem, who knows? Things seem to be improving, just not fixed yet. ANy help is much appreciated.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 14th, 2006 AT 1:50 AM
Tiny
DARRYL
  • MEMBER
Hello: Don't you just love it Ha! Well it can be the Ign module which on a GM car is usually inside the distributor and fairly easy to replace. Also might be a faulty coolant sensor (will have at least two pins on it) Problem is with computer controlled engines the computer will only do what the sensors tell it to do. If there is a faulty sensor, poor connection etc, the computer is being fed bum info and therefore makes the car run like crap. The MAF or MAP (don't know which you have) play a hughe part in how the engine runs, any of these that are affected by heat can cause lots of greif. Most of the time these faults won't even set any fault codes in the computer, I guess thats because it thinks everything is ok. Also could be the crank position sensor (if you have one). I have seen these do what you say yours is doing. Had a buick that would run until got warm, then no spark until cooled off, was crank position sensor. Well at least its getting better, give the ign module a shot, they are not very expensive.
Good luck
Darryl.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 14th, 2006 AT 8:06 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides