1988 Chevy Corsica Engine stalls

Tiny
62UNIBODY
  • 1988 CHEVROLET CORSICA

Electrical problem
1988 Chevy Corsica 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

This Corsica runs fine then shuts down as though the key is turned off. It usually restarts right away but I notice that the engine seems to run a little rough. I am thinking possible crank position sensor failure.

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Monday, August 10th, 2009 AT 12:49 PM

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Tiny
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Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Ignition module?

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Monday, August 10th, 2009 AT 11:00 PM
Tiny
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No check engine light until it stalls. Fuel pressure is good. Pulled the ignition module yesterday, had it and the coils tested, all good. Replaced the Crankshaft position sensor, engine started, but because of an oil leak fron the oil filter cover gasket, I had to shut it down and replace the gasket. Gasket on order for today. Had to pull oil filter & cover to remove starter to access bolts for coil pack.

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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 10:39 AM
Tiny
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Let me know if it worked.

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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 1:35 PM
Tiny
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Will do.

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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
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Still does the same thing. I did notice that it loses throttle when it tries to die. When it starts back up, there is no throttle. AAAhhhhhhh! I feel better now. ;-)

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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 7:47 PM
Tiny
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I hoped that fixed it for you. Without a check engine light, these can be a pain. WHen you say no throttle, do you mean there is no change in the RPM's when it restarts regardless of how hard you hit the throttle?

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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 10:21 PM
Tiny
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When I hit the throttle, there is no change at all. Is there a way to check codes without a reader? Seems I read somewhere that you use a jumper and read the flashes. Another idea I had, one of many, was that if the crankshaft position sensor wiring had a short in it, it may cause this condition also. I don't know if it's possible to bypass the sensor to see if that may be the cause. Aren't electrical issues fun? :-)

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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 12:09 AM
Tiny
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If you bypass the crank sensor, it won't run at all. As far as codes, check under the dash (driver's side). There should be a connector pointing toward the driver (not plugged in to anything). LEt me know if you find it. You are correct. Using a jumper, you can jump two of the leads and count the number of flashes from the check eng light.

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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 3:55 PM
Tiny
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I know where that is at. What about a fuel pump relay failing? Where is it located? A new one pretty cheap. I found four relays on the firewall, but none of them look like the fuel pump relay on autozone website. I'll keep looking though. Thanks for you time, I really appreciate it. I am one of the many unemployed, but will try to donate something when I can.

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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 8:02 PM
Tiny
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I believe there isa power distribution box under the hood. THe relay should be there.

I'm glad to help. I just hope that what I'm telling you is helping.

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 12:10 AM
Tiny
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Well all 4 of the relays seem to be doing what they are designed to do. Fuel pressure is good. I am thinking that it's either a coil breaking down or the spark control module failing. The reason I am thinking that is because there are no codes other than code 12, even though they tested good on a machine. The owner wants to replace them. It seems that I am just throwing parts at this thing, but it's the direction I am leading to. The engine will run when it's cold, but once it gets a little warm it acts up, hence the coil or spark control module breaking down. Before I buy new parts, a friend had the same car and is going to let me play swap a part. I'll let you know how that goes. Oh and by the way, what you are telling me is helping more than you think. Thanks!

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
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I'm glad to hear that. Let me know if the other part helps.

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 12:43 PM
Tiny
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Replaced coil pack.
Replaced spark control module
Replaced computer.
Replaced map sensor.
Checked Fuel pump relay.
Checked voltage at TPS
Checked fuel system.

After replacing computer, engine started & ran fine for about 7 - 8 minutes. We shut it down to do some reassembyl. Went to start it, same problem. No starting. So how does that cash for clunkers program work? :-)

AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 4:49 PM
Tiny
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So it's not fixed?

Cash for clunkers. It really upsets me. There are hundreds of cars on the dealers' lots better than I can even afford to purchase ready to have their engined locked up and then crushed. I can't believe some people accepted the 35 or 4500 dollars for the cars they trashed. They appear to be worth much more. There was a Chrysler Town and Country AWD van (around an 02 or 03) in perfect condition inside and out that had written on the windshield "CFC". I would love to have had that car for my family.

However, I can understand where you are coming from. Frustration! I've been there, ready to set a torch the my cars. I'll shut up now. LOL

If the car ran before you replaced everything, have you checked closely for a broken or loose wire?

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
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I think the CFC program is a bunch of crap and a way for the commies to get good ol' American stell off the roads. Those of course would be good old toys like the one I have. I wonder how many 62 Ford F100 unibody trucks have been crushed. I agree that there should be a program that gives people a chance to buy the cars at a really good price. It'll probably never happen though. To get back to this car now that I am done ranting.

When the car was towed to me, it would start, run for a short while then the engine would die. It may or may not restart. We checked & replaced the coil pack, spark control module, and computer with known good parts. We checked the 4 relays that are on the firewall, the one on the drivers side is for the fuel pump. When you turn the key on, the fuel pump runs until it pressurizes the system, then the relay shuts the pump off. We even swapped relays around in an attempt to find a bad one. No bad one found. We checked the fuel system and replaced the fuel filter as a just in case. We checked the ignition switch for correct operation and saw no problems. The weird thing is that after we installed the computer, the engine started & ran good for 10 minutes or so. I shut it off so we could reinstall the fan that was removed to replace the coils & spark module. After everything was reinstalled, we went to start it and it wouldn't start. :-( It seems like it wants to start, but just won't quite get there. I was thinking of something in the fuel tank, like a piece of plastic that would get drawn to the suction. But why would it start & run for 10 or so minutes then not restart? It's like there was a relay that kicks out as soon as the engine starts. I think it's something so simple, I just can't see it. Thanks for any input you can provide.

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
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You are right. It is most likely something simple. If it is trying to start but won't, it sounds fuel related. Will it start with starting fluid? Also, have you checked for fuel pump pressure now that this is happening? If you are correct and something is blocking it, it should show up for you.

Let me know. And sorry I have so many questions. It's much easier when the car is in front of me.

One more add on about the cash for clunkers. Don't you think if it's our tax dollars being spent, people should only be alowed to use it on American cars?

I'll stop complaining now. LOL

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
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I didn't notice you complaining at all. :-) I wonder how many rice burners are being crushed?
I am trying to make up a fuel pressure guage as I am typing. I am still stumped on why it ran so well for the time that it did, and now it won't start. I put a line on the pressure port on the fuel rail and during starting, there was pleanty of volume. I know that doesn't mean pressure though. I'll probably start again in the morning. 10 hours with no answer is starting to wear on me and my friend that's helping me.

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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 10:25 PM
Tiny
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Let me know how it goes. Also, you many of the parts stores will lend or rent a pressure gauge.

If you have good pressure, with a noid light, make sure you are getting power to the injectors.

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Friday, August 14th, 2009 AT 12:43 PM
Tiny
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8/14/09 Update
Besides all the other stuff.
Fuel pressure 40 -45 PSI and holds system pressure for over 3 hours. Checked injectors, injectors getting power and test light is flashing. Checked EGR valve for being stuck, operating as designed. Checked throttle body, operating as designed. Checked idle circuit, no problems found. I am stumped! :-?

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Friday, August 14th, 2009 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
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8/14/09 Update
Besides all the other stuff.
Fuel pressure 40 -45 PSI and holds system pressure for over 3 hours. Checked injectors, injectors getting power and test light is flashing. Checked EGR valve for being stuck, operating as designed. Checked throttle body, operating as designed. Checked idle circuit, no problems found. How about something to do with the wires that go to the starter solenoid? The reason I am asking is because I had to drop the starter down the first time I pulled the coil pack. The engine statered after the coil pack was installed, but I am in the guessing mode now. I pulled the fan again and verified that the coil pack was plugged in completely and it was. The starter wiring is in the starting circuit and if there was a bad connection, it would turn the starter, but when the solenoid disengages, maybe that's when I am losing the fire. No codes. I am stumped! :-?[/Quote:c23cb44e80]

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Friday, August 14th, 2009 AT 9:02 PM

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