1997 Chevy Cavalier horn

Tiny
UNIGURL197969
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
My horn just quit working and in my last cavalier it was a fuse. But I can't seem to find the fuse in this one. Any clues how to make it work again?
Do you
have the same problem?
Yes
No
Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 7:00 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER
Check fuse under hood in the fuse block there. Do you hear a clicking noise when pressing the horn?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
UNIGURL197969
  • MEMBER
No I don't hear anything when I press the horn. I checked the fuse panel under the hood too but did not find anything labeled horn. Is it under a different name?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 9:06 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER
Its labeled "cig" for cigarette lighter and it's usually the lighter itself that blows fuse
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 5:58 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MEMBER


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/139033_coil_6.jpg

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 5:59 AM
Tiny
RHPEARSONII
  • MEMBER
Your horn fuse is in the fuse block and it is a 15 amp mini fuse. The fuse block is on the left side of the dash and you will see it only when you open your driver's side door. I am currently working on this same cavalier for a family member and a horn fuse was blown on their car also. Like the other tech said about the lighter blowing the fuse this is what was blowing this car's horn fuse. These are on the same circuit. Use a test light and ground the alligator clip on a good ground(anything metal that isn't separated by an insulator:i.E. Rubber, plastic, etc.)And then turn your key forward so you can check all your fuses.

A few will not light when you probe the two metal tits that are on the side you can see. If any of the fuses light the test light on just one tit then you know that fuse is bad. If it lights both tits they are good. If neither tits light the test light then that circuit is probably just not turned on; i.E: lights. You can pick up a cheap test light at any automotive store for pretty cheap.

You can check grounds with it by putting the alligator clipped end on a positive wire or check the power(positive) of a wire by hooking the alligator clip up to a good ground(usually anything metal on the vehicle).

Also the relay for the horn is usually under the hood and that is what you would hear clicking, not the fuse. Relays click, not fuses, unless they are blowing and then you will hear a pop. God bless and I pray this helps your problem. To get at the horn itself it is next to the PCM (powertrain control module or better known as the "computer").

It is behind the front passenger fender. I took the tire off, the splash guard, and the passenger headlight(2 bolts) to get at the PCM(that's my main problem on this car I am working on). I had to take the horn out to get the PCM out. If you get at the horn if the fuse and relay is alright then you use the test light to check both wires going to the horn.

If you have a good ground(negative wire) at the connector and a good power(positive wire) then you will need to get a new horn. Besides these three things that I mentioned the two other things that could be at fault but not likely is the wiring itself or the switch or switches on the steering wheel.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Saturday, February 21st, 2009 AT 1:10 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Recommended Guides