1998 Chevy Camaro Car won't start

Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAMARO
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Camaro 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual

Hello fellow members, I bought a 1998 camaro from a friend of mine 3 months ago. I haven't been able to get it to start. I have put new timing chain and gears, crank sensor, cam sensor, plugs, wires. I had the ignition module tested, fuel pressure, new coil packs, new alternator. New belt. Any help will be deeply appreciated, I also tried resetting the timing to make sure it wasn't 180 degrees out. All fuses are good and got new relays to make sure it wasn't one of those gone bad. I was told to check the key use a volt meter and I done that it checked out good. Thanks for any input or help.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 8:12 AM

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Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Wow, your approach to this has probably created numerous new issues now. Throwing parts at a problem will never work out.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 8:17 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
Thank you for your input. Most of the new parts were purchased before I got the car. But I have performed a compression test on every cylinder, after cranking the engine four rotations they were all between 180-190psi
Also performed fuel pressure test this automatically went to around 45 psi after turning key off I waited 15 mins. And the pressure stayed the same, also done same when performed compression test. I did take the ignition control module to auto zone and had it tested, as I said most of the parts were all ready bought. The only thing I have paid for was plug and plug wires, and alternator because it did test bad. I don't think the car is getting spark but what else can I test is it possibly the ecc or pcm? I don't want to buy parts I don't need. Thanks
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 8:41 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
You need to perform tests #1 and #2.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 8:43 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
This is the v 6 engine 3800, is there away to bypass the vos? I think thats what it is called, because it has new coil packs and the ignition control module was tested. This is the distributorless ignition system, and Thank you very much for your input
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 8:54 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
You need to finish testing as I asked.

If you have a security light on or flashing, let me know.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 9:02 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
The security light goes out after the key is on for 20-25 seconds. May I get back with you later on the testing it is pouring the rain here right now. I did a fuel pressure test the other day and within 3-5 seconds the fuel pump motor stopped and I had like 45 - 48 psi, and after I turned the key off it stayed right there even after 15 minutes. I really appreciate your help I just can't test for spark right now. It is however slacking up so I may be able to here shortly. Thanks again
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 9:09 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
No problem, I'll be around when you get the info. We need some facts here about what works and what doesn't. I'm a little concerned about that security light though.
Let me know what the history is here. Did any modules, wiring or ignition switch get changed? How did all this start?
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 9:15 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
Hello, my name is Anthony; you was helping me earlier with the camaro. OK I'm not sure of what started the problems with this car. It wasn't running when I bought it. I did check for spark and it doesn't have any. As I said I did have the ign. Control mod. Tested at Autozone, and I know the guy put new coil packs, along with a lot of the other items I mentioned earlier. All I know about the car is he had replaced the timing chain and gears, crank sensor, cam sensor, the only things I changed was the plugs plug wires and the alternator. I had all the plugs out when I done a compression test so I went ahead and replaced them and the wires. I may be able to get a hold of the guy this afternoon when he gets off work. Thanks again for helping me
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
OK look, what you changed or checked means nothing right now. The way we resolve these things is we systematically isolate what function is missing before we go any further. I gave a you a list of specific things that I needed to know. Until you can give me definitive answers on ALL those tests and follow up with subsequent testing, I'm not going to be able to help you. I realize you have your own ideas and agenda but I'm not going to waste a lot of time that way.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
OK I checked for spark and I have none, I checked the fuel pressure, I have 48 psi. The injectors have not been tested I don't have the noid light until I can get to town. Performed compression test again 185-190 on each cylinder. I'm not sure what else you are talking about. What else would you like for me to do?
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:08 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

You can get a noid light for less than $10 at most auto parts stores.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:18 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Picture
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
OK ; I know that you are trying to help me and I really appreciate your help. However I do not want to waste your time or get you upset. I am not here to upset you or anyone else, and I apologize if I have. All I was saying was all that I have done, in hopes of that being able to give you a better idea of what is going on and what I've tried. I'm not trying to question your ethics or your intelligence. I would not ask for help or advise if it is going to get someone agitated with me. So please do forgive me if I said or done anything to offend you.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
I'm not offended. I just don't want to continue wasting time with no results. We have a system to diagnose these things and I need answers to the questions I ask. If you don't have what you need, then you have to get it. I don't have a crystal ball and the tests have to be done by you or a repair shop your paying to do it. The "throw parts at it" method is not my method.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:28 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
How would you like for me to test the coil packs, it has three because this is a distrbutorles.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:28 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
The coils on this one are powered through the ignition module which is under the coils on the pink wire coming into it.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:30 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
I agree with you and that's not my method either. The guy I bought the car from had already replaced everything all I replaced was the plugs plug wires and alternator because it was tested and was bad
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
The pink wire that comes into the ignition module does show positive. But I will check it again if need be.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Get all the results together and then tell me. Check everything twice to be sure.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY BOWLING
  • MEMBER
I will double test everything you have listed and will submit the results later this afternoon. I will have to go to town and get a noid light. I have no problem doing what ever you want me to do and I will do them in the order you want me to do them. So I will get back with you later. Thanks again I will be a while because town is about 45 min. So probably 3-4 hrs. At this time I shall have all results.
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Tuesday, September 28th, 2010 AT 1:40 PM

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